drawback of lightsphere


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roti_prata

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the lightsphere is great but theres only 1(and quite impt) thing tt it cant do - direct flash

take tis pic shot during my sch's cny celebrations for example. im using the tokina 12-24 and the canteen ceiling is quite high so firing up w/LS2 made the pic top-bright-bottom-dark. so instead i dialled down the flash by 1.7 and pulled out the 14mm diffuser. now im thinking if i should hav gotten the stofen instead:think:
 

Hacker

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roti_prata said:
the lightsphere is great but theres only 1(and quite impt) thing tt it cant do - direct flash

take tis pic shot during my sch's cny celebrations for example. im using the tokina 12-24 and the canteen ceiling is quite high so firing up w/LS2 made the pic top-bright-bottom-dark. so instead i dialled down the flash by 1.7 and pulled out the 14mm diffuser. now im thinking if i should hav gotten the stofen instead:think:
You can get the inverted dome for direct flash.

http://www.cathayphoto.com.sg/specialoffers/
 

catchlights

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#1, what make you think that dail -1.7 will make the light more even?

#2, if you use LS PJ shooting direct without a inverted dome, of couse you are creating a hotspot lighting.
 

espn

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A case of not understanding the equipment and thinking what works for others will work for yourself.

Ceiling high got a lot of other ways to capture this shot. Flash doesn't even look necessary...
 

Cheesecake

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Hacker said:
You can get the inverted dome for direct flash.

http://www.cathayphoto.com.sg/specialoffers/
yeaps! i just got the inverted dome!! i'm a mega fan of LSII, PJ and classic alike.;p

i'm gonna try it on my fave model later and see what big differences there might be.

LSII is the way to go!
 

Cheesecake

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roti_prata said:
the lightsphere is great but theres only 1(and quite impt) thing tt it cant do - direct flash

take tis pic shot during my sch's cny celebrations for example. im using the tokina 12-24 and the canteen ceiling is quite high so firing up w/LS2 made the pic top-bright-bottom-dark. so instead i dialled down the flash by 1.7 and pulled out the 14mm diffuser. now im thinking if i should hav gotten the stofen instead:think:
don't quite get what u meant. i only understand the high ceiling part.
in layman's term...

ISO used, shutter and aperture?
 

roti_prata

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sry for not being clear, i did not use LS2 for the pic above.
i dialled in -1.7 because auto was too harsh.
wat im saying is tt though LS2 is good, its not useful always while the stofen seemed like a good compromise between bounce(w/card) and direct flash.
 

syl

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Going OT but roti prata and cheesecake are of course, the opposite ends of a balanced menu!!!

hehe!!
 

Del_CtrlnoAlt

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syl said:
Going OT but roti prata and cheesecake are of course, the opposite ends of a balanced menu!!!

hehe!!
hahahaa.... good 1 there... :thumbsup:

anyway, i find that in tis shot, was there a need for flash in the 1st place? like super guru espn have mentioned... using ambience light would be good enuff...

and another master catchlight said... y -1.7 compensation...

u could just set your flash to 1/32 or 1/64 if u wan some 'light' and rest on ambience... or maybe even rely on your direct flash, ttl, and of course correct metering.
 

catchlights

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There are no one device fix all, and I think I have said it a few times before.


I use direct flash
I use onmibounce
I use ceiling bounce
I use wall bounce
I use bounce card
I use built in bounce card (SB800)
I use LS classic
I use LS PJ


All give you different kind of effect, some are similar, some are unique, if I only can bring one device, it has to be LS PJ, don't forget I still can shoot with direct, ceiling/wall bounce and built in bounce card.
 

rhair78

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Roti Prata Dude, you could up the ISO more, like 800, and use various flash settings, to just get that fill in, and highlight the facial features. That would be great.
 

espn

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catchlights said:
There are no one device fix all, and I think I have said it a few times before.


I use direct flash
I use onmibounce
I use ceiling bounce
I use wall bounce
I use bounce card
I use built in bounce card (SB800)
I use LS classic
I use LS PJ


All give you different kind of effect, some are similar, some are unique, if I only can bring one device, it has to be LS PJ, don't forget I still can shoot with direct, ceiling/wall bounce and built in bounce card.
Done everything you have and will go with you at the end with the Lao Sai PJ or a larger bounce card. :thumbsup:
 

Cheesecake

Senior Member
roti_prata said:
sry for not being clear, i did not use LS2 for the pic above.
i dialled in -1.7 because auto was too harsh.
wat im saying is tt though LS2 is good, its not useful always while the stofen seemed like a good compromise between bounce(w/card) and direct flash.
sorry bro, i dun agree with what u've said.

i use the PJ in all my 35mm flash photography in conditions and situations where there are ceilings, high ceilings and no ceilings without any trouble, large or small group... etc.etc.

the problem with what u've encountered simply, is the lack of practise and understanding of ur equipment. u jus need alot more practise and understanding to make full use of ur equipments.
 

catchlights

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espn said:
Done everything you have and will go with you at the end with the Lao Sai PJ or a larger bounce card. :thumbsup:
hahaha, whatever lah, most important thing is you must know about the tools, know how and when to use it.
 

catchlights

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roti_prata said:
sry for not being clear, i did not use LS2 for the pic above.
i dialled in -1.7 because auto was too harsh.
wat im saying is tt though LS2 is good, its not useful always while the stofen seemed like a good compromise between bounce(w/card) and direct flash.

stofen, onmibounce, LS Classic or PJ, all are creating bare bulb effect, ang moh like bare bulb effect a lot and think it is the best lighting a hotshoe flash should create, it is not a soft light effect, it is just wrap around the subjects, so the light should come from all direction.


For any light, the bigger the light source, will produce more softer lights, another factor is the distance, the subject closer to the light source, the shadows of the subject will go softer.


And also not always soft light is better, soft or hard light can create different kind effects, so you need to understand the tools you have, use them create the effect you want.
 

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