dead pixel problem..pls advise


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Linus

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Jan 31, 2002
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just bought my 2100uz at AP todae..found out that there were six dead pixels...damn!

so how? possible to go down and change a new set?
 

think i will go back change tomolo
can?
 

Tomorrow when u get u camera again, remember to test for dead pixels again using the lens cover test.
 

Originally posted by Linus
just bought my 2100uz at AP todae..found out that there were six dead pixels...damn!

so how? possible to go down and change a new set?

At what setting did the the dead pixels appears?

Did those appear in all expopsure length...if not then those are hot pixels, not dead pixels.
 

Originally posted by Jayan


At what setting did the the dead pixels appears?

Did those appear in all expopsure length...if not then those are hot pixels, not dead pixels.

think they are dead pixles
cuz no matter how i xoom and scroll

the pixels still there...
sigh
 

Originally posted by Linus


think they are dead pixles
cuz no matter how i xoom and scroll

the pixels still there...
sigh

That's becos the dead/hot pixels are on the CCD itself...no matter how much you scroll/zoom also no use one.

Tell me, at which shutter speed did those appear???
 

Originally posted by Jayan


That's becos the dead/hot pixels are on the CCD itself...no matter how much you scroll/zoom also no use one.

Tell me, at which shutter speed did those appear???

think i tried less than 4 seconds

why dun u tell me a detailed test? so that i know whether it is dead or hot pixels..
 

Originally posted by Linus


think i tried less than 4 seconds

why dun u tell me a detailed test? so that i know whether it is dead or hot pixels..

I assume u know how to do the black frame test by leaving the lens cap on.

First, set ur ISO to 100, not AUTO. If not ur DC will set automatically to ISO 400 under complete darkness. At ISO 200/400 there'll be lotsa 'noise' even at short exposure.

Second, make sure that ur DC is cool b4 attempting to do the test. A warm DC and CCD will produce more noise' than usual.

Third, do the test in TIFF or SHQ image quality only.

Fourth, do a complete test from 16sec, 13sec, 10 sec, right down to 1/10 sec (or lower, up to you). The aperture, zoom and other settings should remain the same at all times.

If a bright pixel appears at all shutter speed...then this is a dead pixel. The only way to cure is to do an exchange (at AP or Olympus SG) or get Olympus SG to replace the CCD.

If the pixel doesn't appear initially but get more obvious and bright as the shutter gets slower, then this is a hot pixel. Don't worry, this is normal, even my DC has a few at slower shutter speed. What u can do is to pay Oly SG a visit and ask that to upgrade ur firmware...that'll will reduce (not eliminate) the amount of noise and hot pixels.

Actually anything that's noiseless and w/o hot pixels at 4 sec is very good already....anything beyond that is a bonus liao, I've already accepted this fact.

Hope these tips helps.
 

Originally posted by Jayan


I assume u know how to do the black frame test by leaving the lens cap on.

First, set ur ISO to 100, not AUTO. If not ur DC will set automatically to ISO 400 under complete darkness. At ISO 200/400 there'll be lotsa 'noise' even at short exposure.

Second, make sure that ur DC is cool b4 attempting to do the test. A warm DC and CCD will produce more noise' than usual.

Third, do the test in TIFF or SHQ image quality only.

Fourth, do a complete test from 16sec, 13sec, 10 sec, right down to 1/10 sec (or lower, up to you). The aperture, zoom and other settings should remain the same at all times.

If a bright pixel appears at all shutter speed...then this is a dead pixel. The only way to cure is to do an exchange (at AP or Olympus SG) or get Olympus SG to replace the CCD.

If the pixel doesn't appear initially but get more obvious and bright as the shutter gets slower, then this is a hot pixel. Don't worry, this is normal, even my DC has a few at slower shutter speed. What u can do is to pay Oly SG a visit and ask that to upgrade ur firmware...that'll will reduce (not eliminate) the amount of noise and hot pixels.

Actually anything that's noiseless and w/o hot pixels at 4 sec is very good already....anything beyond that is a bonus liao, I've already accepted this fact.

Hope these tips helps.



thanx a lot

seems like i have both dead and hot pixels

going down to do an exchange with AP regarding the dead pixels
hot pixeles wise got to go down with olym,pus liao

anyway thanx a lot
u have been a great help
 

Originally posted by Jayan


That's becos the dead/hot pixels are on the CCD itself...no matter how much you scroll/zoom also no use one.

Tell me, at which shutter speed did those appear???


those hot pixels will move as i scroll

but those dead pixels will always be there no matter how i move it
 

Originally posted by Linus



those hot pixels will move as i scroll


Could be still dead pixels but on the CCD itself. That is why the advise to shoot at ISO100 or lower AND make sure camera is cool.
 

Originally posted by Linus



those hot pixels will move as i scroll

but those dead pixels will always be there no matter how i move it

If u scroll/zoom the LCD and the pixels move...then these r dead/hot pixels of the CCD, but if they don't then it is a LCD problem.
 

Originally posted by Jayan


If u scroll/zoom the LCD and the pixels move...then these r dead/hot pixels of the CCD, but if they don't then it is a LCD problem.

The best thing is to go visit Mr. Goh, the Tech Manager in Olympus Singapore.....u might pick up a couple of freebies along the way!!!!
 

I think it's a LCD dead pixel lah... get it changed and comment on the build quality... then he'll anyhow give u a 32 meg card haha...
 

Originally posted by denizenx
I think it's a LCD dead pixel lah... get it changed and comment on the build quality... then he'll anyhow give u a 32 meg card haha...

:D
 

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