D100 Exposure


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Lord Hokage

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Hi,

Recently i acquired a second hand D100 and i notice that the pictures taken tend to be on the under exposed side even though it was metered at neutral. Is it something perculiar to my D100 unit or perhaps it is something that is common to all D100? Please help new to the world of slr/dslr hope to learn more!

Cheers
 

TMC

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common. D100 and D70 tend to underexposure by about 1/3 stop to prevent overexposure
 

espn

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Nothing to worry.. push the curve a bit in PS/NC and you're set to go.
 

sammy888

Senior Member
Lord Hokage said:
Hi,

Recently i acquired a second hand D100 and i notice that the pictures taken tend to be on the under exposed side even though it was metered at neutral. Is it something perculiar to my D100 unit or perhaps it is something that is common to all D100? Please help new to the world of slr/dslr hope to learn more!

Cheers
What's mentioned is true that Nikon just want to ensure that the highlights or bright portions are not over exposed so much ( meaning it could still get overly exposed if you meter the lighting all wrong...thus it is just a minor safe guard) that it lose details and can not be "save" even by post graphic editing with a software like Photoshop. If you want to "balance" it off, you can use your exposure compensation button to add "+0.3" to your exposed. SO long as you keep this setting through your shooting, it will be at the "right" exposure and not look underexposed.
 

espn

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sammy888 said:
What's mentioned is true that Nikon just want to ensure that the highlights or bright portions are not over exposed so much that it lose details and can not be "save" even by post graphic editing with a software like Photoshop. If you want to "balance" it off, you can use your exposure compensation button to add "+0.3" to your exposed. SO long as you keep this setting through your shooting, it will be at the "right" exposure and not look underexposed.
A bit risky, not all situations can +0.3EV.
 

sammy888

Senior Member
espn said:
A bit risky, not all situations can +0.3EV.

I agree but that is a quick fix hehe... I usually leave it at neutral on very sunny days I will compensate(+0.3) on cloudy days or when I know the lighting's dynamic range is more within the digital film's dynamic range..it just means I don't need to rework the photo later as it is still about acceptable.

But for quick and dirty ( A or S mode) and I don't want to compensate, I tend to shoot centre weighted or spot. I would gauge a scene pick out an exposure spot, lock in the exposure (AE Lock) and reframe my shot and shoot. I still don't like matrix metering...that is the biggest culprit for over exposure leh blown up bright areas like those long flat walls against the blue sunny sky...matrix metering does not get it right too often that is what I personally feel...but it works better with Nikon's slightly under exposure in that case....sometimes. :) In any case, after using my D70 for more then a year now, I don't really care much about that underexposure thingy... learn to shoot in manual mode and that will not be a problem any more heheh

I agree the curve is the way to go too but for a newbie...that might be abit more challenging at the newbie stage.
 

Madmax

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Nov 22, 2003
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There are a lots of curves out there. Do a search on yahoo or google. Download and try them out. There are those which "ups" the mid-tones. That should help you.

If you shoot in raw, you can easily increase the exposure later on.
 

espn

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sammy888 said:
I agree but that is a quick fix hehe... I usually leave it at neutral on very sunny days I will compensate(+0.3) on cloudy days or when I know the lighting's dynamic range is more within the digital film's dynamic range..it just means I don't need to rework the photo later as it is still about acceptable.
That really depends on what you're shooting and the vast DR required in the shot. Also the subject and it's background brightness +0.3 or -0.3EV can give different results.

sammy888 said:
But for quick and dirty ( A or S mode) and I don't want to compensate, I tend to shoot centre weighted or spot. I would gauge a scene pick out an exposure spot, lock in the exposure (AE Lock) and reframe my shot and shoot. I still don't like matrix metering...that is the biggest culprit for over exposure leh blown up bright areas like those long flat walls against the blue sunny sky...matrix metering does not get it right too often that is what I personally feel...but it works better with Nikon's slightly under exposure in that case....sometimes. :) In any case, after using my D70 for more then a year now, I don't really care much about that underexposure thingy... learn to shoot in manual mode and that will not be a problem any more heheh
Hmmm the thing I like about the D70 is the 3D MM, it's pretty much more accurate than the D100 I personally feel, and the 3D MMII on the D50/200/2HS/2X bodies are simply amazingly good, of course, not meant as a general shooting metering whereby some other cases of spot/center would come in more useful instead.

As for the 'underexposure' thingie, I never really did bother much, I would feel it's a good move instead.

sammy888 said:
I agree the curve is the way to go too but for a newbie...that might be abit more challenging at the newbie stage.
Well we all start somewhere, reading up + playing around with it would help.
 

sammy888

Senior Member
That really depends on what you're shooting and the vast DR required in the shot. Also the subject and it's background brightness +0.3 or -0.3EV can give different results.
Har...then that is into my next favorite "kiasu" realm... auto bracketing heheh... I like that for very difficult lighting.

I find the 3D matrix is not that good in a scene like for example a garden...where I have nice blue sky with a good mix of shady tree with sunny breaking through and you see that on the ground...know what I mean. I find 3D matrix not does not get me the the right balance of maintain the shadow while keeping the other bright and shaded portion the way I like it some how. Always have to tweak it in photoshop. So to avoid that ( being lazy) I tend to use centre weighted to measure around, lock the exposure as I see it and then fire. LCD preview is not that good to see it so...this seem to work better for me but of course if it is a crucial shot I will bracket as well :)

But yes I heard that about the 3D matrix when comparing the D70 to D100. Well each newer version will alway supercede the last in some way. Just like there is one of two stuff avaialbe on the D200 which is not found on the D2X. What to do? Buy Buy Buy? heheh No my way....plus my wallet has been through enough pain all these years of changing SLRs and stuff...I am not as "kee siow" as before.

true lah got to start some where but judging by the way he asked it...he is way far back yet to be doing anything with the curves. I not so bad to ask them to buy buy buy the s/w just to do that heheh...worst still they go buy and come back here and ask even more questions and maybe confuse him further before he got use to just using his camera without entering the world of photoshop, nikon capture..etc heheh. Damn ...or maybe I am mellowing off after seanlim!! hahahah
 

Lord Hokage

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Thanks for all the reply will work on all the various advice given and see which one is most suitable to me? :)
 

espn

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sammy888 said:
Har...then that is into my next favorite "kiasu" realm... auto bracketing heheh... I like that for very difficult lighting.
Piang eh!!! Like that also can???

sammy888 said:
I find the 3D matrix is not that good in a scene like for example a garden...where I have nice blue sky with a good mix of shady tree with sunny breaking through and you see that on the ground...know what I mean. I find 3D matrix not does not get me the the right balance of maintain the shadow while keeping the other bright and shaded portion the way I like it some how. Always have to tweak it in photoshop. So to avoid that ( being lazy) I tend to use centre weighted to measure around, lock the exposure as I see it and then fire. LCD preview is not that good to see it so...this seem to work better for me but of course if it is a crucial shot I will bracket as well :)
Not really leh...see how you meter + shoot.



sammy888 said:
But yes I heard that about the 3D matrix when comparing the D70 to D100. Well each newer version will alway supercede the last in some way. Just like there is one of two stuff avaialbe on the D200 which is not found on the D2X. What to do? Buy Buy Buy? heheh No my way....plus my wallet has been through enough pain all these years of changing SLRs and stuff...I am not as "kee siow" as before.
Hahaha don't have to buy because it's newer la.. I'm just giving example. But there's always a pretty big jump between the revisions. 3DMMII is shiooooooooook.

sammy888 said:
true lah got to start some where but judging by the way he asked it...he is way far back yet to be doing anything with the curves. I not so bad to ask them to buy buy buy the s/w just to do that heheh...worst still they go buy and come back here and ask even more questions and maybe confuse him further before he got use to just using his camera without entering the world of photoshop, nikon capture..etc heheh. Damn ...or maybe I am mellowing off after seanlim!! hahahah
NC got trial version for 30 days, upload the curve liao then uninstall lor!!
 

Lord Hokage

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Dec 26, 2005
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Hi espn,

downloading the NC as i type this! Thanks for the various comments on the comments :p at least no a BBB MTL answer :p

Cheers
 

espn

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Lord Hokage said:
Hi espn,

downloading the NC as i type this! Thanks for the various comments on the comments :p at least no a BBB MTL answer :p

Cheers
Who seyz?


BBB, MTL, buy first talk later, if have already, buy another one for backup, if don't need, then sell and buy again!!! :thumbsup:


:bsmilie:
 

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