CPL filter for tamron 17-50


fitlies

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Feb 6, 2008
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#1
hi snappers! i would like to ask what CPL are you using for those who owns the tamron 17-50? would like to get one for my own.

a quick check shows the following available:

Hoya Pro1 Digital CPL - $100
Hoya HD CPL - $130
B+W CPL MRC F-Pro - $155
B+W CPL MRC SLIM - $190

I'm not into brands per se so prolly B+W is out of the window unless they really offer substantial gains. Any other reputable brands which offer similar characteristics but is lower than the Hoya Pro1?
 

SkyStrike

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#2
It will still be better to go for the B+W one... the Hoya one seems to be "eating" more light than the B+W version. At least for my Hoya CPL Slim (not sure about pro1d) But according to lenstip, the B+W is more effective as a CPL...

I believe Kenko is another brand you can look into with similar features/performance to Hoya (IIRC, Kenko abit cheaper than Hoya). You will need to test the filter out yourself.


Slightly curious, what will your CPL be used for? Landscaping?
 

fitlies

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#4
nah.. for normal usage actually. wanna take out my uv filter and place this instead. just unsure if i should go straight for B+W.

By saying 'eating light' you mean as a whole filter or certain parts of it only?
 

catchlights

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#5
nah.. for normal usage actually. wanna take out my uv filter and place this instead. just unsure if i should go straight for B+W.

By saying 'eating light' you mean as a whole filter or certain parts of it only?
CPL filter cut down 2 1/2 stops of lights, it is not advisable to mount it when it is not needed, same like you don't need to wear sunglasses to see a movie or at night.

on the second though, this thread is more appropriate to move to newbies corner.

thread moved.
 

kelchew

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#6
CPL filter cut down 2 1/2 stops of lights, it is not advisable to mount it when it is not needed, same like you don't need to wear sunglasses to see a movie or at night.

on the second though, this thread is more appropriate to move to newbies corner.

thread moved.
Oh cpl have 2.5 stop of light.
I always though it only 1.5stop
 

SkyStrike

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#7
If you buy even cheaper ones, you will get ND filter instead of CPL... worst thing that might even happen is higher chance to get flares.

IIRC, multi coated ones will have lesser chance to get flares as compared to those single coated or uncoated ones. And multi coated ones normally comes at a price too.
 

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evilorgi

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#8
I am using the Hoya CPL, not the Pro1 version. Erm I think it will be better to get B+W or Hoya HD as it will be easier to clean too... among all the other tangible benefits...
 

Octarine

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#9
Oh cpl have 2.5 stop of light.
I always though it only 1.5stop
Different filters have different rates of light absorption. There is no 'one number fits all filters'.
 

daredevil123

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#10
SkyStrike said:
It will still be better to go for the B+W one... the Hoya one seems to be "eating" more light than the B+W version. At least for my Hoya CPL Slim (not sure about pro1d) But according to lenstip, the B+W is more effective as a CPL...

I believe Kenko is another brand you can look into with similar features/performance to Hoya (IIRC, Kenko abit cheaper than Hoya). You will need to test the filter out yourself.

Slightly curious, what will your CPL be used for? Landscaping?
You should read the lenstip cpl test results carefully. Hoya hmc and pro 1d scores are only slightly lower than b+w mrc. And the substantially cheaper marumi super dhg ties b+w mrc in scoring.

A cpl is used mostly in good sunlight. So a couple stops of light loss is no big deal. It is not a filter you leave on your lens all the time.

And it is not rocket science, and even cheap cpl can do the job, just that there is more tendency to flare. Then again, cpl is most useful when the sun is perpendicular to your angle of view, which will also cause minimal flare in the first place.

So TS weigh your options and how often you use a cpl. Personally I use it less than 5% of the time I shoot. And I have used b+w Ksm cpl and it gives a warmer tone that I do not prefer. In the end, I sold it in favor of the kenko pro1d.

Btw kenko and hoya pro1d are almost the same except for the construction of the ring. Optics are almost identical.
 

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SkyStrike

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#11
You should read the lenstip cpl test results carefully. Hoya hmc and pro 1d scores are only slightly lower than b+w mrc. And the substantially cheaper marumi super dhg ties b+w mrc in scoring.

A cpl is used mostly in good sunlight. So a couple stops of light loss is no big deal. It is not a filter you leave on your lens all the time.

And it is not rocket science, and even cheap cpl can do the job, just that there is more tendency to flare. Then again, cpl is most useful when the sun is perpendicular to your angle of view, which will also cause minimal flare in the first place.
personally, not sure if I'm using it wrongly or just differently. I tend to use it indoors more often.... esp for glass displays as some of those reflections can be quite "distracting". I would actually go for a CPL that don't eat too much light so, can at least also see better in indoor. A "darker" CPL may also cause some issues in focusing in dim light.

*I'm also using it less than 5% of my shots. Probably even lesser*
 

daredevil123

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#12
personally, not sure if I'm using it wrongly or just differently. I tend to use it indoors more often.... esp for glass displays as some of those reflections can be quite "distracting". I would actually go for a CPL that don't eat too much light so, can at least also see better in indoor. A "darker" CPL may also cause some issues in focusing in dim light.

*I'm also using it less than 5% of my shots. Probably even lesser*
If you use it indoors, flare will not be much of a problem no?

there is no wrong way to use anything. You can choose to use it any way you wish.

But your way of using a CPL is very different from most other folks, and to apply your parameters of a CPL to those of the TS's need, is largely irrelevant and make not much sense. though good information, it will be more helpful to the folks asking the questions, if in the future, you couuld include the way you use your CPL. That will be a better perspective for the folks asking the questions.

And btw, CPL is not useful for Landscaping but tools like hedge trimmer, shovel and lawn mowers are good for Landscaping. "Landscaping" refers to the how you organize, decorate an outdoor area (e.g. gardening).
 

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SkyStrike

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#13
If you use it indoors, flare will not be much of a problem no?
Indoors, so far so good (other than some occasions where the spot light shine directly into my lens which re-positioning solve the problem) :)

And btw, CPL is not useful for Landscaping but tools like hedge trimmer, shovel and lawn mowers are good for Landscaping. "Landscaping" refers to the how you organize, decorate an outdoor area (e.g. gardening).
Oops. Noted ;p
 

fitlies

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Feb 6, 2008
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#14
wow thanks a lot for the wonderful replies guys.

okay, probably i'm exaggerating by saying that i wanna put it on my lens most of the time. i've read through that cpl filters are best used when taking landscapes and in a direction of the sun, in order to avoid washed out details and yet get a well-defined picture overall. it can also darken skies, soften water reflections and enhance colour saturation. (ps i'm saying this out of my mouth; summarizing what the little articles i've read so far. so apologies if it's technically/scientifically wrong or wrong altogether).

personally, i'd prefer to shoot without any uv filters on. just that i thought by using the cpl, it'll help generally in the photos i take. (nd will be adjusting the photo on purpose). thus, "wanting to leave them on". then @catchlights mentioned that it cuts down 2.5 stops of light. so i guess it's best used when really taking landscapes eg at the beach or skylines.

for the price and the usage pattern from those whom replied, it seems that it is not really a necessary item to buy after all?
 

Octarine

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#15
for the price and the usage pattern from those whom replied, it seems that it is not really a necessary item to buy after all?
There are always things that you don't use often but still you should have them ready at hand. CPL filters filter the light before it hits the sensor to avoid what you described. No post-processing later can do the same. So even if you only use it 3x per year .. the moment you need it there is no other way.
 

SkyStrike

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#16
Here's some reading on using CPLs: http://www.cs.mtu.edu/~shene/DigiCam/User-Guide/filter/polarizer.html. Some quick examples on how to use CPL.

Like Octarine mentioned, not all things can be done in PP. E.g. lost details due to reflection. I still keep it in my bags when traveling even if I don't need it for all shots. But when you need it, you will need it.

btw, If you have intentions to use this on a UWA in the future, you may want to get a CPL of that diameter (e.g. I used a 77mm for both my lens at 77mm and 58mm), just get a step-up ring when needed.
 

fitlies

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Feb 6, 2008
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#17
Here's some reading on using CPLs: http://www.cs.mtu.edu/~shene/DigiCam/User-Guide/filter/polarizer.html. Some quick examples on how to use CPL.

Like Octarine mentioned, not all things can be done in PP. E.g. lost details due to reflection. I still keep it in my bags when traveling even if I don't need it for all shots. But when you need it, you will need it.

btw, If you have intentions to use this on a UWA in the future, you may want to get a CPL of that diameter (e.g. I used a 77mm for both my lens at 77mm and 58mm), just get a step-up ring when needed.
in fact, yes i do have a tokina 11-16. so the best bet will be to buy a cpl of that filter thread size and any other times i need to use the cpl filter for eg with tamron, i'll just use a step up ring?
 

SkyStrike

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#18
in fact, yes i do have a tokina 11-16. so the best bet will be to buy a cpl of that filter thread size and any other times i need to use the cpl filter for eg with tamron, i'll just use a step up ring?
That's what I do ;)

But please be more careful when using CPL with UWA...the uneven polarization of the skies etc. If you fail to notice this when taking the shot, it can cause you more problems during PP (prob only applies to me, since my PP skills...erm, sucks :bsmilie:)
 

fitlies

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Feb 6, 2008
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#19
hahah don't say that! no matter what, it always pays to get it right off the cam so that you spend lesser time PP-ing anyway :) thanks for the advice!
 

daredevil123

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Oct 25, 2005
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#20
wow thanks a lot for the wonderful replies guys.

okay, probably i'm exaggerating by saying that i wanna put it on my lens most of the time. i've read through that cpl filters are best used when taking landscapes and in a direction of the sun, in order to avoid washed out details and yet get a well-defined picture overall. it can also darken skies, soften water reflections and enhance colour saturation. (ps i'm saying this out of my mouth; summarizing what the little articles i've read so far. so apologies if it's technically/scientifically wrong or wrong altogether).

personally, i'd prefer to shoot without any uv filters on. just that i thought by using the cpl, it'll help generally in the photos i take. (nd will be adjusting the photo on purpose). thus, "wanting to leave them on". then @catchlights mentioned that it cuts down 2.5 stops of light. so i guess it's best used when really taking landscapes eg at the beach or skylines.

for the price and the usage pattern from those whom replied, it seems that it is not really a necessary item to buy after all?
CPL is best used when taking landscapes in the day. At sunrises and sunsets, the effect is minimal, and at night it is downright useless.

And CPL works best when the sun is 90 deg perpendicular to the angle of your lens, NOT shooting into the sun or in the direction of the sun. I've mentioned that before but it seems you failed to grasp the idea. This is an easier way to understand. Hold up your thumb like giving a thumbs up motion. Then extend your index finger. Now your hand looks like a "gun" motion. using your index finger point to the where your camera angle is facing. You can turn your hand in any way, but the index finger stays pointed at the direction of your lens. All the angles where the thumb is pointed to will be the angle of the sun, where the CPL will work best. Some CPL comes with a dot or a triangular marking. Just rotate that marker to point towards the sun (like your thumb) and that will be the position where it gives you maximum polarization.
 

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