comments on this?
- Thread starter MaGixShOe
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and this?
this is taken using auto
it seems alot more sharper
makes mi wonder wat are the manual settings for......
this is taken using auto
it seems alot more sharper
makes mi wonder wat are the manual settings for......
For the white balance part, did you notice the grass in the one shot with WB set as sunlight appears greener? But it's not significant. The auto wb of most camera shouldn't have any problem with sunlight, that's why it looks similar. But if you try the tungstan/indesc...(how you speel that?) the different should be obvious.
Tungstan lights are yellowish, the auto wb may not be able to compensate properly for the colours, the tungstan wb settings allows the camera to compensate for this colour cast so that the picture don't look so yellowish.
The sharpness is not affected by the wb settings.
Hmmm.. for the macro shot, the problem is with the 'blur-ness' right? One thing to note for macro shots is that camera have a minimun focusing distance even when in macro mode. if the subjects is too close to the camera, the camera will not be able to focus properly and the pic will end up blur. Another thing is that during macro mode, if the magnification is very high, shakes from your hand my interfere with the focusing, resulting in inaccurate focus. Another thing is DOF, as mentioned in the other thread. he DOF when in macro mode is very shallow, so only a very small part of the subject will be in sharp focus, so you have to becareful on tghe focusing, making sure the camera is focusing on the intended part.
For your macro shot, did you notice the pot is sharp? Perhaps its because the subject is too close or the af focused on the pot instead. And remember to set to macro mode, it allows the camera to focus at subjects that are close.
Hope it helps... and that's not too scary is it?
Tungstan lights are yellowish, the auto wb may not be able to compensate properly for the colours, the tungstan wb settings allows the camera to compensate for this colour cast so that the picture don't look so yellowish.
The sharpness is not affected by the wb settings.
Hmmm.. for the macro shot, the problem is with the 'blur-ness' right? One thing to note for macro shots is that camera have a minimun focusing distance even when in macro mode. if the subjects is too close to the camera, the camera will not be able to focus properly and the pic will end up blur. Another thing is that during macro mode, if the magnification is very high, shakes from your hand my interfere with the focusing, resulting in inaccurate focus. Another thing is DOF, as mentioned in the other thread. he DOF when in macro mode is very shallow, so only a very small part of the subject will be in sharp focus, so you have to becareful on tghe focusing, making sure the camera is focusing on the intended part.
For your macro shot, did you notice the pot is sharp? Perhaps its because the subject is too close or the af focused on the pot instead. And remember to set to macro mode, it allows the camera to focus at subjects that are close.
Hope it helps... and that's not too scary is it?
erm.. the auto means i set the whole cam to shoot at the auto settings leh
does that means the WB oso auto?
coz under manual mode oso can set the WB as auto
so for the marco shot my cam should be further away from the object?
if like that then my object will be very small liao leh since it cant zoom in when in marco
its not scary
does that means the WB oso auto?
coz under manual mode oso can set the WB as auto
so for the marco shot my cam should be further away from the object?
if like that then my object will be very small liao leh since it cant zoom in when in marco
its not scary
All cameras (actually its the lens) have certain limitations in macro capabilities. Thats why we have close up filters to help get bigger macros. Check out this link for some example pics. Those discussed are +4 filters. Depending on the level of magification needed, +1, +2, +4 to +10 closeup filters are easily available in the shops. Not expensive also. Around $15.
http://forums.clubsnap.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5393
The basic function of a close up filter is to reduce the minimum focusing distance at each specific focal length. For example, if the minimum focusin distance when zoom to 3x (eg 100mm) is 60cm, with a closeup filter attached, the minimum focusing distance becomes 10cm (still at 3x zoom).
Oh... hahhaa... I thought you mean wb auto....
Hee hee... camera on auto and manual modes.... wah this one very stress topic.... Let's just put it this way... sometimes, there are things that you wish to do but the cannot be achieved using the auto/programmed mode. And sometimes you want to control a certain aspect of the camera...
Let's say, you want to shoot a very long exposure so that you get the streaking effect of the car's lights. You are going to need shutter piority or the fully manual modes. Or let's say you are shooting scenery and want to use a tiny aperture, you'll need to use the manual or aperture piority mode. or flash photography, when you want to balance the ambient light and light from the flash, you are likely to require to use manual mode.
Hee hee... camera on auto and manual modes.... wah this one very stress topic.... Let's just put it this way... sometimes, there are things that you wish to do but the cannot be achieved using the auto/programmed mode. And sometimes you want to control a certain aspect of the camera...
Let's say, you want to shoot a very long exposure so that you get the streaking effect of the car's lights. You are going to need shutter piority or the fully manual modes. Or let's say you are shooting scenery and want to use a tiny aperture, you'll need to use the manual or aperture piority mode. or flash photography, when you want to balance the ambient light and light from the flash, you are likely to require to use manual mode.
thankx jango
i got wat u mean liao
means my cam on marco mode canot go closer than wat it is intended to, if not the imaeg will blur rite?
i got wat u mean liao
means my cam on marco mode canot go closer than wat it is intended to, if not the imaeg will blur rite?
hmm flare: for normal photography on ppl set the cam to auto will do rite?
dun need to care about others uh
then for taking landscape or specific objects then change the manual settings suitable for it
dun need to care about others uh
then for taking landscape or specific objects then change the manual settings suitable for it
Thats rite. In macro mode, there is a minimum and maximum focusing distance. So, both going too near or too far, the camera will not be able to focus liao.
Hee hee, kind of depends on situation... the programmed/auto mode in most modern camera is smart enough to handle most situations. Such as landscape and stuff... The manual mode and semi manual mode (hee he, the aperture and shutter piority) are used for a certain type of situation... say the smooth water effect? you may want to use shutter piority... For SLR and DSLR users, they are likely to use the aperture piority so that they have control over the DOF.
okie
heehee
i guess for mi wat i can do now is just set to auto and snap snap
unless the result turns out not up to my expectations then i play around with the manual settings to get it rite
heehee
i guess for mi wat i can do now is just set to auto and snap snap
unless the result turns out not up to my expectations then i play around with the manual settings to get it rite
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