City Where Never Sleep

[danielwinn]

1.In what area is critique to be sought?
Composition, Light Balance, Anything You Feel

2.what one hopes to achieve with the piece of work?
Well Balance With No Hot Spot Nightscape

3.under what circumstance is the picture taken? (physical conditions/emotions)
Quite Clear Night, in the middle of the Padang alone. Back from orientation, grab the gear bag and run off to Cityhall.
Emotions? At That Moment, I wished I could buy wide-angle lens.

4.what the critique seeker personally thinks of the picture
I didn't get the sky right. I think it's too dark in my opinion. The Glass should be lil bit more visible. Building Lights for me, it's the best I ever captured. Btw, it's 3 exposure processed in Photomatix/Lightroom.

Additional Info:
Camera Nikon D5100
Lens Sigma 18-200mm OS HSM
Exposure 2
Aperture f/11
Focal Length 22 mm
ISO Speed 800

 

[ed9119]

i think a little crop off the dark sky at the top might help

 

[Rafael]

I assume your Tv was 2 seconds.

I would rather use lower ISO (like 100) for noise control, a larger Av (like 16-32) for sharpness and maybe achieve a more impact starlight from the street lamps, earlier time to capture bluish horizon that blend into the darker sky above.
That of cause you'll need a sturdy tripod and a time-release remote control, don't forget to lockup the mirror.
There are not enough light area to talk about WB.

Personally I find the picture common, can even achieve using my compact without tripod.
You'll need to try with various settings (ISO, Tv, Av.....) and at different time of dusk and dawn, that's where you get experience.

 

[yhphotography]

Daniel,

Verticals are off, overall photo is too dark, only the building lights which is the best you ever captured are correctly exposed.

Choosing a better timing like the blue hour or sunset will greatly improve the photo aesthetic and quality without putting in any extra effort. (Though choosing the correct timing is a skill that is to be learnt through time, and a quality which many budding photographers are lacking)

Cheers
YongHao

 

[daredevil123]

TS, your picture suffers from perspective distortion (aka keystone distortion). This is an effect due to the angle of view is not perpendicular to the buildings, and made even more obvious by the wide focal length. You can try to correct that in PP, or you can shoot level using a 2-axis spirit level.

The dark foreground (grass) is not really that necessary, and too much black sky in your frame. Try to shoot at the blur hour, just as the sun has set, or right before the sun rising.

 

[danielwinn]

I assume your Tv was 2 seconds.

I would rather use lower ISO (like 100) for noise control, a larger Av (like 16-32) for sharpness and maybe achieve a more impact starlight from the street lamps, earlier time to capture bluish horizon that blend into the darker sky above.
That of cause you'll need a sturdy tripod and a time-release remote control, don't forget to lockup the mirror.
There are not enough light area to talk about WB.

Personally I find the picture common, can even achieve using my compact without tripod.
You'll need to try with various settings (ISO, Tv, Av.....) and at different time of dusk and dawn, that's where you get experience.

Sorry. I was busy with my study and didn't pay much attention to forums.
I got your points. I was using shutter priority mode if I'm not mistaken which I used to shoot at night.
My tripod is still that free one given as free gift. Yet to fund for new ones.
And, D5100 cannot do mirror lock-up. It has mirror lock-up for sensor cleaning only.
After reading, my understanding is that increase f-numbers to f16-f22, set ISO 100, play around with shutter speed for optimise result.
Yeah, timing!!! It was shot at 8pm+. Next time, I'll try to shoot more around dusk & dawn.

 

[danielwinn]

i think a little crop off the dark sky at the top might help

Thanks.. Will do..

 

[danielwinn]

TS, your picture suffers from perspective distortion (aka keystone distortion). This is an effect due to the angle of view is not perpendicular to the buildings, and made even more obvious by the wide focal length. You can try to correct that in PP, or you can shoot level using a 2-axis spirit level.

The dark foreground (grass) is not really that necessary, and too much black sky in your frame. Try to shoot at the blur hour, just as the sun has set, or right before the sun rising.

You mean the lens correction? I only use LR for organising and doing some minor adjustments. I don't know how to use photoshop. I notice I have problems seeing vertical lines. I always think that my photos of buildings are abit off. In terms of not straight, then, when I adjusted, I feel it's slanted. Is it my eyes playing the trick?

 

[danielwinn]

Daniel,

Verticals are off, overall photo is too dark, only the building lights which is the best you ever captured are correctly exposed.

Choosing a better timing like the blue hour or sunset will greatly improve the photo aesthetic and quality without putting in any extra effort. (Though choosing the correct timing is a skill that is to be learnt through time, and a quality which many budding photographers are lacking)

Cheers
YongHao

Yup, I understand.. Effort is needed for improvement... I was using my old laptop when I edited that photo and didn't do any calibration. It was bright enough on my then computer and it was too dark on others.
Thanks all so much for your critiques. I don't get that type of feedback on social networks.

 

[wonglp]

You mean the lens correction? I only use LR for organising and doing some minor adjustments. I don't know how to use photoshop. I notice I have problems seeing vertical lines. I always think that my photos of buildings are abit off. In terms of not straight, then, when I adjusted, I feel it's slanted. Is it my eyes playing the trick?

Keystone distortion is quite prominent above, see the singtel building on the far right is slanted left inwards, and the building on far left is slanted right inwards.
Does the camera has gridlines to help? Otherwise double axis spirit level will help level things, something like this http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-337-Double-Bubble-Level/dp/B00009R6J7

Increasing F stop numbers (i.e. reducing aperture) beyond (I think) F11 for apsc sensor will introduce diffraction and that will deteriorate sharpness. So you should test your lens and see at which aperture onwards will reduce your picture quality.

I don't get that type of feedback on social networks.

People are more sociable on social network we are more helpful here.

 

[mds80]

Sorry. I was busy with my study and didn't pay much attention to forums.
I got your points. I was using shutter priority mode if I'm not mistaken which I used to shoot at night.
My tripod is still that free one given as free gift. Yet to fund for new ones.
And, D5100 cannot do mirror lock-up. It has mirror lock-up for sensor cleaning only.
After reading, my understanding is that increase f-numbers to f16-f22, set ISO 100, play around with shutter speed for optimise result.
Yeah, timing!!! It was shot at 8pm+. Next time, I'll try to shoot more around dusk & dawn.

Yup there's no mirror lockup on D5100 but I will use Exposure Delay Mode to help reduce vibrations. It's found in the Shooting/Display settings menu.

 

[danielwinn]

Keystone distortion is quite prominent above, see the singtel building on the far right is slanted left inwards, and the building on far left is slanted right inwards.
Does the camera has gridlines to help? Otherwise double axis spirit level will help level things, something like this Amazon.com: Manfrotto 337 Hot Shoe Double Axis Bubble Level: Camera & Photo

Increasing F stop numbers (i.e. reducing aperture) beyond (I think) F11 for apsc sensor will introduce diffraction and that will deteriorate sharpness. So you should test your lens and see at which aperture onwards will reduce your picture quality.


People are more sociable on social network we are more helpful here.

Wow... This is also very educational. I had this issue when I went for outing a few weeks ago. I started to learn how to use bulk mode then. I increased to maximum f-numbers (I think) f22. And, started shooting esplanade from Merlion Park with different shutter speed. But, guess what, all photos aren't sharp enough. According to what you said, in general term, there is a limit how far we can increase f-numbers for individual camera. Or else, it will decrease the sharpness.
My understanding was that the highest f-numbers, the larger depth of field. It's not right in every case, is it?
D5100 doesn't come with grid lines in viewfinder or electronics single axis horizon thingy.
I relied heavily on the waterlevel on the crappy tripod which I don't think it works well. I think double axis spirit level thing you recommend will work in my case. I didn't know there is this kind of thing. Will find cheaper alternatives.
Thanks all so much again.

 

[danielwinn]

Yup there's no mirror lockup on D5100 but I will use Exposure Delay Mode to help reduce vibrations. It's found in the Shooting/Display settings menu.

Thanks. Will look into it.

 

[wonglp]

Wow... This is also very educational. I had this issue when I went for outing a few weeks ago. I started to learn how to use bulk mode then. I increased to maximum f-numbers (I think) f22. And, started shooting esplanade from Merlion Park with different shutter speed. But, guess what, all photos aren't sharp enough. According to what you said, in general term, there is a limit how far we can increase f-numbers for individual camera. Or else, it will decrease the sharpness.
My understanding was that the highest f-numbers, the larger depth of field. It's not right in every case, is it?
D5100 doesn't come with grid lines in viewfinder or electronics single axis horizon thingy.
I relied heavily on the waterlevel on the crappy tripod which I don't think it works well. I think double axis spirit level thing you recommend will work in my case. I didn't know there is this kind of thing. Will find cheaper alternatives.
Thanks all so much again.

Very welcome, learn alot from the forum and still learning. Glad that helps.

The limit of diffraction depends on sensor size, larger (full frame) the smaller aperture the camera can withstand diffraction. You get deeper DOF with smaller aperture, that's correct, however, as diffraction sets in, the sensor is not able to capture quality light evenly.

If you are keen, here's some more on diffraction
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm

 

[danielwinn]

Very welcome, learn alot from the forum and still learning. Glad that helps.

The limit of diffraction depends on sensor size, larger (full frame) the smaller aperture the camera can withstand diffraction. You get deeper DOF with smaller aperture, that's correct, however, as diffraction sets in, the sensor is not able to capture quality light evenly.

If you are keen, here's some more on diffraction
Diffraction Limited Photography: Pixel Size, Aperture and Airy Disks

Thanks.. I read it through. Some of the technical terms are difficult to understand. However, got the concept now. And, found out that for 1.5 crop factor can go up to f11. Full frame up to f22.

 

[thoongeng]

Wow... This is also very educational. I had this issue when I went for outing a few weeks ago. I started to learn how to use bulk mode then. I increased to maximum f-numbers (I think) f22. And, started shooting esplanade from Merlion Park with different shutter speed. But, guess what, all photos aren't sharp enough. According to what you said, in general term, there is a limit how far we can increase f-numbers for individual camera. Or else, it will decrease the sharpness.
My understanding was that the highest f-numbers, the larger depth of field. It's not right in every case, is it?
D5100 doesn't come with grid lines in viewfinder or electronics single axis horizon thingy.
I relied heavily on the waterlevel on the crappy tripod which I don't think it works well. I think double axis spirit level thing you recommend will work in my case. I didn't know there is this kind of thing. Will find cheaper alternatives.
Thanks all so much again.

I think it's 'bulb mode'

the recommended spirit level looks pro man hehe... You should be able to get a hotshoe-mount double (or even triple) spirit level at camera shops for around $10-12, my cheapskate one seems to work well for me

 

[danielwinn]

I think it's 'bulb mode'

the recommended spirit level looks pro man hehe... You should be able to get a hotshoe-mount double (or even triple) spirit level at camera shops for around $10-12, my cheapskate one seems to work well for me

LOL.. Thanks for pointing out the typo? Nope. Accidental mistake?
Yeah, the recommended one is quite ex. Will try to find cheaper one with hotshoe mount.

 

[Expat yorkshire]

you can buy the spirit level on ebay for 3 or 4 dollars including delivery

 

[rhino123]

After reading, my understanding is that increase f-numbers to f16-f22, set ISO 100, play around with shutter speed for optimise result.
Yeah, timing!!! It was shot at 8pm+. Next time, I'll try to shoot more around dusk & dawn.

Er... no. U really don't need to increase your f-number to too high. At your distance from your subject, even at f4, it will still be perfectly alright, because most probably you will be focusing at infinity. Don't ever set your aperture too small unless absolutely necessary or light diffraction will come in and your photo will be soft.

Yes, you can set your ISO lower if possible.

Next, you can use aperture mode in future to get a better result. And free tripod is actually good enough for lots of things.

 

[haring]

don't crop it. I like the black on the top. It frames the photo.