Could someone tell me what apertures and shutter speeds go together. I often use aperture and shutter priority modes but I really want to try manual to over/underexpose and stuff. I'm using a fuji finepix S5000. It only has a 2 second shutter speed so I was wanting to try manual mode to make the aperture wider so night shots become a little more clear. So if you could just give me some photog to photographer advice on aperture+shutter speed combinations. thanks!...
Aperture and Shutter Speed. Advice?
- Thread starter Spaztik
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for indoor with flash....normally is 1/30 or 1/60 wif f5.6...
otherwise there is no hard and fast rule... get a correct exposure and compensate if u want a faster shutter etc...
otherwise there is no hard and fast rule... get a correct exposure and compensate if u want a faster shutter etc...
Spaztik said:
i think that what you need to understand is how to read your meter on the camera... because you have been using auto modes all this while, do dont quite know the concept behind exposures. i'd suggest you read up a photography book on these things because there is alots to type if i were to type it here...
night shot got 2 main types:
1. basic scenery
2. target subject. (mobile or stationary)
which r u going for? :think:
1. basic scenery
2. target subject. (mobile or stationary)
which r u going for? :think:
duno if this will help.
assuming that the 'correct exposure' is a pail of water, what you want to do is to combine the aperture(like the opening of a tap) and the shutter(how long to keep the tap open) in order to get a full pail of water. overflowing would mean overexpose and not filled to brim would mean under expose. and the rate of flow from the tap would be the ISO( eg 100 would mean like 100 litres per min and ISO800 would mean 800 litres per min therefore makiing it a faster film cos the higher rate can fill a pail much faster.)
the camera would recommend the 'correct' shutter and aperture to get a full pail of water. from there, if the recommended shutter is 1/125sec and aperure 5.6, you can close the aperture to f8( hole become smaller, 1/2 of f5.6) and you will have to openthe shutter to 1/60 (longer, twice) in order to get the same pail of water.
the aperure, shutter and ISO all are measrue by doubling and halving. eg 5.6 is half of f4 and f8 is 4 times smaller of f4
likiewise shutter speed 1/60 is twice of 1/30 and half od 1/125.
manual control allows you to decide over the recommended cos for eg, if you have a bright light source included in the metering you are bound to get under exposeure cos the camera thinks that the scene is bright. you can either meter without the light source first then compose or compensate for the overexposure
so much for now. hope i not confusing you
assuming that the 'correct exposure' is a pail of water, what you want to do is to combine the aperture(like the opening of a tap) and the shutter(how long to keep the tap open) in order to get a full pail of water. overflowing would mean overexpose and not filled to brim would mean under expose. and the rate of flow from the tap would be the ISO( eg 100 would mean like 100 litres per min and ISO800 would mean 800 litres per min therefore makiing it a faster film cos the higher rate can fill a pail much faster.)
the camera would recommend the 'correct' shutter and aperture to get a full pail of water. from there, if the recommended shutter is 1/125sec and aperure 5.6, you can close the aperture to f8( hole become smaller, 1/2 of f5.6) and you will have to openthe shutter to 1/60 (longer, twice) in order to get the same pail of water.
the aperure, shutter and ISO all are measrue by doubling and halving. eg 5.6 is half of f4 and f8 is 4 times smaller of f4
likiewise shutter speed 1/60 is twice of 1/30 and half od 1/125.
manual control allows you to decide over the recommended cos for eg, if you have a bright light source included in the metering you are bound to get under exposeure cos the camera thinks that the scene is bright. you can either meter without the light source first then compose or compensate for the overexposure
so much for now. hope i not confusing you
just wanna add that this is just an analogy to getting correct exposure. of cos there are other factors that must be considered which may have not been mention here.
shttuer speed- freeze movement or to allow movement
aperture- allows you to decide depth of field.
your combination of shutter and aperture will depends on the depth of field you want or if you wan to freeze the movement...including your own hand shake!!
shttuer speed- freeze movement or to allow movement
aperture- allows you to decide depth of field.
your combination of shutter and aperture will depends on the depth of field you want or if you wan to freeze the movement...including your own hand shake!!
I don't think you want to shoot wide open at f/2.8 at night with 2-4 secs of shutter. You'd prefer a smaller aperture around f/8-f/16 to get the details with long shutter.
Same reason to why you want to do it with fireworks.
There are no hard fast rules to the best combination. For eg: at amusement park, perhaps my personal liking settings would be at f/4-f/5.6 at aperture priority mode.
Street scenes will vary, from f/4 to f/8 perhaps. Only last week I shot once at f/2.8.
Sports perhaps Jed would make a better comment.
But I think he doesn't shoot at f/2.8 cos the lenses would play a part too, esp if he's shooting with a f/4 lens. :dunno:
Same reason to why you want to do it with fireworks.
There are no hard fast rules to the best combination. For eg: at amusement park, perhaps my personal liking settings would be at f/4-f/5.6 at aperture priority mode.
Street scenes will vary, from f/4 to f/8 perhaps. Only last week I shot once at f/2.8.
Sports perhaps Jed would make a better comment.
But I think he doesn't shoot at f/2.8 cos the lenses would play a part too, esp if he's shooting with a f/4 lens. :dunno:Spaztik said:
Hi there, fellow S5000 user,
If you wanna play around with manual mode, it's quite easy as the S5000 will display the the metering reading. The exposure will quite right when the indicator is pointing towards the centre. Any lower (left) will be underexposed, and higher (right) means overexposed. Doesn't really have to be perfect, but you may use either the matrix metering or spot metering mode for more accurate reading.
For best reading, use a 18% gray card. You'll need to use the P-mode to meter the card (incident light) and then set the reading in manual mode, regardless of the indicator position. You shall get near perfect exposure this way.
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