Another water drop and fly shots


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tchuanye

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#1
Been busy lately, and could only squeeze out these 2 pics.

First one is a Bougainvillea flower at my mum's garden. Taken with FZ10+6T+Sigma CU filters, no flash.


ExposureTime : 1/80Sec
FNumber : F8.0
ExposureProgram : Manual
ISOSpeedRatings : 100

2nd one is a fly close up, taken with FZ10+reverse 50mm F1.7 lens



ExposureTime : 1/60Sec
FNumber : F8.0
ExposureProgram : Manual
ISOSpeedRatings : 50
 

natnivek

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#2
Oh hail the king of macro.... :gbounce:

I'm still simply amazed at your bug shots... Gettting focused is one thing, you seem to have a way of getting those little critters to pose for you... I even tried shooting a small snail before and I was still too slow... :bsmilie:

Keep it coming~! ;) :thumbsup:
 

tchuanye

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Thanks guys! First of all, I am no macro king....just one who likes to take macro pics. I guess anyone who keeps on shooting macros would improve over time. Whereas most of you guys shoot other things and so become good in those areas.

Scann69 said:
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Great picture. How close were you from the fly?
I was 4 cm away for this pic
 

ivan

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#6
tkp77 said:
Once again the master have displayed his great "killer shots"....!!

Master, when are u going to teach us some of your kung fu??
The photo are very nice, focused and sharp :thumbsup:

I wanna learn the skill too :bsmilie:
 

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#7
Waaa Your shots very the "zhun"(sharp) sia. Nice :thumbsup: How come the fly pose for you? You know him or did you do something??
 

gtan

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what equipment , eg lens, camera and how did you do it?
 

psx2sg

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#10
you pinned the fly n take the shot?or the fly is another of your pet?? *giggle

you're just amazing man...
 

rhair78

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psx2sg said:
you pinned the fly n take the shot?or the fly is another of your pet?? *giggle

you're just amazing man...
Ah... I let you in on the secret...
1st he use his Pana FL-28 to flash the fly... so that it will be stunned...
Once stunned, he move in closer and take lor.
You can try that with other insects too :bsmilie:
 

Scann69

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#13
I think i'm going to kill one fly and take a good close up picture of it ;p I wonder if the Nikon 6T can give such good picture even if i get to be 4cm away from the fly :think:
 

tchuanye

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#14
rhair78 said:
Ah... I let you in on the secret...
1st he use his Pana FL-28 to flash the fly... so that it will be stunned...
Once stunned, he move in closer and take lor.
You can try that with other insects too :bsmilie:
Heh heh....I am not too sure if that will work....have not tried it before, but have read that some pp do that. To take the fly pic, one have to move real slowly, until its within focus distance.....no sudden movement.


Scann69 said:
I think i'm going to kill one fly and take a good close up picture of it ;p I wonder if the Nikon 6T can give such good picture even if i get to be 4cm away from the fly :think:
For 6T, minimum focus distance is ~29cm. You cannot focus anything with 6T at 4cm. That only works for the reverse lens.....so different lens used, different focus distance.
 

natnivek

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Hi TCY,

Question, I'm currently using the fz20 with a 6T. Do you know what is the most ideal zoom distance and working distance to get the best results?

So far, I've tried different zoom distances and generally thought that 12x would be the best. Any advice? Much appreciated... ;p
 

rhair78

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natnivek said:
Hi TCY,

Question, I'm currently using the fz20 with a 6T. Do you know what is the most ideal zoom distance and working distance to get the best results?

So far, I've tried different zoom distances and generally thought that 12x would be the best. Any advice? Much appreciated... ;p
Hey Kevin, generally, there are 2 ranges to work from, the 0-3x zoom you have to go up close to the subject, as close as a few cm or even touching.

The other range is the tele range 3-12x, where your working distance will range the more zoom, the further the working distance.

So far, working at 12x allows for a good working distance, to get the flash coverage. Too close, you cannot position your flash and the lighting will not be even, unless you use a hot shoe cord to fire the external flash from other angle, like above, or from the side or behind the subject
 

Hong Jia

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#18
CY, u r really the master in macro shot using FZ10... haaa...

Really good shots, me try to do the same using a 6T only... but can never get the sharpness... heee...
 

natnivek

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#19
rhair78 said:
Hey Kevin, generally, there are 2 ranges to work from, the 0-3x zoom you have to go up close to the subject, as close as a few cm or even touching.

The other range is the tele range 3-12x, where your working distance will range the more zoom, the further the working distance.

So far, working at 12x allows for a good working distance, to get the flash coverage. Too close, you cannot position your flash and the lighting will not be even, unless you use a hot shoe cord to fire the external flash from other angle, like above, or from the side or behind the subject

Bagus lah bhang.... ;) :thumbsup:
 

tchuanye

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#20
natnivek said:
Hi TCY,

Question, I'm currently using the fz20 with a 6T. Do you know what is the most ideal zoom distance and working distance to get the best results?

So far, I've tried different zoom distances and generally thought that 12x would be the best. Any advice? Much appreciated... ;p
Looks like Ricky have played more variations with the 6T than me. For the 6T, I have always or mostly used x12, and the WD is 29 cm. I think I have tried less than x12 before to get better framing etc, but I did not take note of the WD. I don't think one can say there is a best zoom for the 6T. First you have to compose your shots, if it is better at x12 ok, if not, zoom out till the framing/composition suits you than shoot. But like Ricky said, if the WD is so short at x3, than ext flash may be a problem, but this may and can be circumvented by bounce flash or slave flash (for e.g.).

Hong Jia said:
CY, u r really the master in macro shot using FZ10... haaa...

Really good shots, me try to do the same using a 6T only... but can never get the sharpness... heee...
Ultimately, the technique are the same. I use mostly MF, and than move my camera (usually the whole body with the camera sling tensioned away from my neck to make it rigid) to and fro until the image appear sharp, than snap. Do note that I take MANY pics before one or two is sharp. So don;t give up! :D I still find that the camera response fastest at M mode, as the apeture is already set. You will notice in A mode, if you set at F8, there is a delay time when you press the shutter and the camera take the picture....u can even here the click of the apeture sound....dunno, but this is what happen on FZ10, not sure on Fz20.
 

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