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Newbie0001
Guest
The problems are,
a) is this the limitation of DC in the indoor sports photography?
b) the settings are:
- shutter priority 1/30 s
- indoor, normal lighting conditions
- sport: TKD
- I was 5m to 10 m away from the subjects.
- ISO = 400
- Flash light off, (tried, cannot reach)
- Teleconverter used , 3X,
- EV max +2.0V (maximum)
- White ballance: fluorescent, i think
c) My question is , how to take this kind of photo? No external lights, shutter speed cannot be adjusted anymore, too fast = dim, too slow = blur images. I have set everthing max already. If aperture priority, sure got black dim image one. How har?
a) is this the limitation of DC in the indoor sports photography?
b) the settings are:
- shutter priority 1/30 s
- indoor, normal lighting conditions
- sport: TKD
- I was 5m to 10 m away from the subjects.
- ISO = 400
- Flash light off, (tried, cannot reach)
- Teleconverter used , 3X,
- EV max +2.0V (maximum)
- White ballance: fluorescent, i think
c) My question is , how to take this kind of photo? No external lights, shutter speed cannot be adjusted anymore, too fast = dim, too slow = blur images. I have set everthing max already. If aperture priority, sure got black dim image one. How har?
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Newbie0001
Guest
Just speculating, for indoor shoot...
If w/o flash, you need small aperture value, fast shutter and high iso like 800 or 1600?
If w/o flash, you need small aperture value, fast shutter and high iso like 800 or 1600?
a: Yes, this is the limitation of DC.
b: I don't think you're allow to use FLASH, as that will blind the contestant.
c: The only way to get faster speed on your camera is pushing the ISO to ISO1600 or higher and use a FAST Lens @ f/2.8 or bigger, with that, you should get around 1/125 +-, which also mean, you need a Digital SLR
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Newbie0001
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Newbie0001
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thank you simon, adamgoi and mpenza.
I have another question:
is it there is a limit to PS to change the brightness for photos , i.e. for dim, underexposured photo, can never being changed to a nice clear photo?
eg:
One of my friend helped me to edited this photo to be:
How he changed it? Using what command in PS? sorry, I have tried my best, I have tried contrast, brightness and so forth, but still don't know how to do it.
So , in conclusion :
it is difficult to take indoor, low light conditions sport photos by using proconsumer photos right?
This might be a good example to all the newbies. they can consider before they buy any DC next time.
I have another question:
is it there is a limit to PS to change the brightness for photos , i.e. for dim, underexposured photo, can never being changed to a nice clear photo?
eg:
One of my friend helped me to edited this photo to be:
How he changed it? Using what command in PS? sorry, I have tried my best, I have tried contrast, brightness and so forth, but still don't know how to do it.
So , in conclusion :
it is difficult to take indoor, low light conditions sport photos by using proconsumer photos right?
This might be a good example to all the newbies. they can consider before they buy any DC next time.
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Galaa
Guest
I think he merely used the "quick fix" function found in most camera software. I don think photoshop has this function, but the program that comes with my Uzi has it.
Yes Photoshop is able to do that. Quickfix commands are just one step Photosop actions. The same effect can be achieved in Photoshop using various means, among them brightness/contrast, curves, and levels.
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Newbie0001
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Hi, jed, may i know how to carry out this command, please?
Is there any fast and efficient way?
thank you.
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laughingman
Guest
I'll chip in a bit. One easy way to adjust such photos would be by adjusting the Levels. This can be found in the menu image->adjust. if you like, you can try photoshop's auto level. This helps to fix many underexposed images. If this is not satisfactory, do it menaully by selecting image->adjust->levels. For correcting under exposed images, I like to use the white dropper tool and look for a part which should be white (pure white, not shadow or anything, i.e brightest part of your image) and click on it, this will set the tone as the brightest part of the image. Then, using the left most arrow of the histogram (the black arrow) slide it until the dark tones are to your likings. Then you can adjust the grey arrows to correct the midtones. If the dark tones are still too dark even if you jam the arrow to the left. Adjust the output level either by using the slider bar or with numerical value.
There are some guidelines for adjusting the levels, but I personally like what I see and there are times where rules have to be broken to achieve the effect you want. So just trust your eyes. I personally feel that having an under exposed image is better than an over exposed one. When over exposed, you losses image details that cannot be corrected by PS. Under exposed shots usually don't pose a problem.
p/s: I use the white dropper tool to correct for WB problems as well. Usually find something white, then warm it with the variations. But then when there's nothing white... then have to do the variations/channels way liao.
PP/s: When there's no white in the image, try to adjust using the right most arrow under the histogram.
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Newbie0001
Guest
thanks flare and jed.
The auto level one/adjust levels one, I know.
Just that how you all judge at the above adjusted picture? i find it very nice which I cannot do that. Once I adjust the levels, the picture becomes quite "noisy" and blur a bit.
Laughingman,
Heard that around 1K leh, alan photo,
Got their equote at 1050 SGD.
I bought mine at 1200 nett with bundle of free gifts last time . ie camera bag, 32mb cf card, +1 EN-EL1 battery.
Levels:
This calls up a histogram with the pixel distribution in your image. If it's underexposed, you will find that the histogram peaks at the dark end of the scale (towards the black triangle slider on the x-axis). Also, it will probably end before it reaches the white triangle on the other end of the x-axis. Technically, you should start by moving the slides to the starting points of the histogram, which will bring the picture up. After that, you can tweak with the middle grey slider to adjust the midtones in the picture to achieve the necessary result.
Yes, increased noise is a necessary evil. The camera hasn't registered enough detail, and contains a bit of noise in the dark channels. As you adjust to increase exposure by any method, you need to brighten these areas and also stretch the contrast range, hence making any existing noise more evident than before. The key is to get the exposure right at the first time of asking.
This calls up a histogram with the pixel distribution in your image. If it's underexposed, you will find that the histogram peaks at the dark end of the scale (towards the black triangle slider on the x-axis). Also, it will probably end before it reaches the white triangle on the other end of the x-axis. Technically, you should start by moving the slides to the starting points of the histogram, which will bring the picture up. After that, you can tweak with the middle grey slider to adjust the midtones in the picture to achieve the necessary result.
Yes, increased noise is a necessary evil. The camera hasn't registered enough detail, and contains a bit of noise in the dark channels. As you adjust to increase exposure by any method, you need to brighten these areas and also stretch the contrast range, hence making any existing noise more evident than before. The key is to get the exposure right at the first time of asking.
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Newbie0001
Guest
heehee.
I did . But I don't understand.
He said something......PS deluxe(which I don't have it)
2ndly, he also mentioned cubic2 , what is that? Curve? so chim......
so, really cannot figure it out.
thanks, jed, i try to figure these out.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Well, perhaps other than adjusting the exposure, he also used some plug-ins to reduce the amount of noise.
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