2040 discontinued
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fcpga
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I think only Alan Photo still take in new stock these days,
those others are pushing for higher megapixel ones, which translate to higher price and higher profit.
In order to prevent your competitors from selling, simply issue a reply DISCONTINUED PRODUCT to give the impression that its lousy. Get it, simple logic.
those others are pushing for higher megapixel ones, which translate to higher price and higher profit.
In order to prevent your competitors from selling, simply issue a reply DISCONTINUED PRODUCT to give the impression that its lousy. Get it, simple logic.
AP still has lots! I tried my hands on almost all of them....... ^) went to replace my oly 2040 which had a dead pixel. Peter was nice enuff to let me try all the 15 oly 2040 there and test one by one. But as of sat morning there are at least 15 there. dun think they would be sold so quickly kuah. since this product already discontinued......
no lah, but most of them got some kind of green pixels in them. DUn know are they hot pixels or something. Some had red pixels so i guess those were dead pixels. I tried to pick a better one....
No, i didnt do any long exposures with all those cameras i tried out. When i opened the box and slot in the batteries, i saw the green pixels liao. Naturally i became worried. I wasnt gonna take those cameras. So i tried and tried until i saw a camera which didnt have any of those green pixels.
Oh! U mean u got those stuck pixels on the LCD is it???
Aiyah! I thot u were talking abt the CCD.
Anyway, I got one or two green stuck pixels in the EVF and LCD on my C-2100uz, didn't bother abt it.
It only warrants my attention when the CCD has hot/dead/stuck pixels.
Cheers!!!
Originally posted by kylelam77
lol, i am a bit picky abt the lcd.....
Ok ok....but remember to chk for hot pixels using the 'lens cap' test also.
There was once i did a long exposure. then 2 green pixels came up. can't remember how long but i did enabled the slow fash thingy in the menu. After that my pics got 2 green pixels. After i let it cool about 20 mins later, i checked again. they were gone. So are those considered hot pixels?
These r temporary hot pixels that're caused by the CCD heating up and long exposure...that's why after cooling they're gone or when using a shorter exposure time.
For permanent hot pixels, no matter how cool ur DC or how short the exposure is, they r still there in the pix.
U know how to do the Black Frame Hot Pixel Test to chk when the hot pixels start to appear???
Erm, dun know. I am a newbie at this things....... U mean there are temporary and permanent hot pixels also ar?Black frame hot pixel test sounds cheem.... Dun know
Ok here's a highly simplified version of what's going on....
U see, the CCD (Charged Coupling Device) is basically a chip with millions of photo-sensitive cells on it.
When exposures to light....the individual cells charges up and sense the brightness and color of a particular spot, and together the millions of cells form the pix.
But some cells charges up more easily and brightly than the rest, this forms exceptionally bright pixels on the pix...that's, hot pixels...these gets brighter the longer the exposure time.
There r also cells that charges up regardless of exposure time, these're the dead pixels...
U'll notice that the green ones hot pixels r always more prominent cos our eyes r more sensitive to the green wavelength.
Heat due to prolonged usage can cause some cells to produce hot pixels as well, but these goes away when the CCD is sufficially cooled (temp vs perm hot pixels).
To do a test for hot/dead pixels, cover ur lens with ur lens cap and use a standard setting (use manual control to do this) for ur aperture, focus, ISO and WB. Only the shutter speed varies.
Then do a shot at 1/800, 1/600, 1/400, 1/200, 1/100, 1/50, 1/25, 1/12, 1/6, 1/4, 1/3, 1/2, 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 16 seconds.
(Note: These r here to illustrate how to conduct the test only, the options on ur DC may varies.)
Remember, after a few shots shut down the DC to allow the CCD to cool. For the multi-second shots, I suggest doing this after every shot.
Do the test in TIFF or SHQ JPEG, at max resolution.
Since the lens cap is on, logically u'll see only completely black in the pix. But here is where u chk for hot pixels. Go thru the various black frame pix, starting from the shortest exposure and go to the one where the hot pixels start to show.
The hot pixels shoudn't appear on the pix at anything lower than x (depends on ur tolerance level) seconds.
For me it's abt 4 seconds....for u, u decide.
U see, the CCD (Charged Coupling Device) is basically a chip with millions of photo-sensitive cells on it.
When exposures to light....the individual cells charges up and sense the brightness and color of a particular spot, and together the millions of cells form the pix.
But some cells charges up more easily and brightly than the rest, this forms exceptionally bright pixels on the pix...that's, hot pixels...these gets brighter the longer the exposure time.
There r also cells that charges up regardless of exposure time, these're the dead pixels...
U'll notice that the green ones hot pixels r always more prominent cos our eyes r more sensitive to the green wavelength.
Heat due to prolonged usage can cause some cells to produce hot pixels as well, but these goes away when the CCD is sufficially cooled (temp vs perm hot pixels).
To do a test for hot/dead pixels, cover ur lens with ur lens cap and use a standard setting (use manual control to do this) for ur aperture, focus, ISO and WB. Only the shutter speed varies.
Then do a shot at 1/800, 1/600, 1/400, 1/200, 1/100, 1/50, 1/25, 1/12, 1/6, 1/4, 1/3, 1/2, 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 16 seconds.
(Note: These r here to illustrate how to conduct the test only, the options on ur DC may varies.)
Remember, after a few shots shut down the DC to allow the CCD to cool. For the multi-second shots, I suggest doing this after every shot.
Do the test in TIFF or SHQ JPEG, at max resolution.
Since the lens cap is on, logically u'll see only completely black in the pix. But here is where u chk for hot pixels. Go thru the various black frame pix, starting from the shortest exposure and go to the one where the hot pixels start to show.
The hot pixels shoudn't appear on the pix at anything lower than x (depends on ur tolerance level) seconds.
For me it's abt 4 seconds....for u, u decide.
Thanks for the elaborate answer Jayan! So is it true that once u get hot pixels say due to a long exposure the shots u take after that no matter whether are long or short exposure shots would also bear the same pixels?
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