16-35mm f/4G ED VR or 14-24mm f/2.8G ED


How come no one mention the Sigma 12-24mm ?
 

How come no one mention the Sigma 12-24mm ?

used to own version 2.

not sharp at the corners but otherwise, can't fault it.



samyang 14 f2.8AE is a good compromise, delivering sharp photo even to the corners. and its almost 50% cheaper but, you have to manually focus.
 

When it comes to none city landscape or Astro photography, manual focus is fine. We have time to manually focus (pre focus and lock for Astro photography) and during the process, it actually takes us back to the fundamentals of landscape photography that is composing the shot which i feel is the most improtant aspect. I would actually find manual focus beneficial for none city landscape.

The reason that i would find manual focusing for city scape or interior limiting is due to the limited space and time one can have when photographing in a city may not be able to stand in that particular spot for long enough durations to manually focus in a snap.

TS had already decided on the 16-35 f/4 VR which is a good buy and the 16-35 f/4 VR definitely offers great options as opposed to the 14-24mm f/2.8 and with a great cost reduction to boot. Not only can the 16-35 f/4 VR use various widely available 77mm filters, it has VR and can zoom to 35mm which can be cropped to frame as it would look like a 50mm. Given that 24 Mega pixels being the baseline of Nikon sensors, cropping for framing and even reach is a valuable capability.

This is not to say the 14-24mm f/2.8 is worse off. It is just that the 14-24mm comes across as a more speciality lens and unless one is using it for specific purposes, the weight, price and price of the SW150 filter system would prove a little too costly for none revenue generating day to day use.

The 14-24mm f.2.8 with its sharp center to corner performance is a wonderful lens for subjects like close up Cityscape and interior in low light conditions, Aurora Borealis, Milkyway or when one is unable to stand at a spot for prolong durations to manual focus. Apart from the Milkyway that i have yet a chance to photograph, it has produced truly unique and wonderful results for me.

The Samyang 14 f/2.8AE and Zeiss 15mm are both good other options should manual focus be viable.
 

Last edited:
When it comes to none city landscape or Astro photography, manual focus is fine. We have time to manually focus (pre focus and lock for Astro photography) and during the process, it actually takes us back to the fundamentals of landscape photography that is composing the shot which i feel is the most improtant aspect. I would actually find manual focus beneficial for none city landscape.

Hi Luminare, please correct me if i am wrong, i thought if we are to do manual focus on city scape or astro, we just put the manual focus to infinity?
 

It depends what you want to do actually.

It need not always be infinity for landscape. For Astro yes. It voices down to how one wants to compose the photo for the intended audience.

Example:
If we want to take photos of the beach and the jetty with Rocks or sand patterns covering the foreground, then we cannot focus to infinity as the foreground will be out of focus depending on circumstances. If f/8 or f/11 is enough to cover the full depth of field from the chosen focal plane, then it is fine, else focus stacking may be needed.

When trying to photograph a patch of meadows with moutains (hills) and setting sun behind, the focus may not be the moutains behind (infinity) but the bed of meadows covering the lower 1/2 to 2/3 of the frame.

So it is not always focused to infinity.

Hi Luminare, please correct me if i am wrong, i thought if we are to do manual focus on city scape or astro, we just put the manual focus to infinity?
 

The newer Samyang and Zeiss ZF.2 lenses will work with the camera's built-in rangefinder. The green dot in the viewfinder will light up when you are in focus.
 

Got my Samyang 14mm AE last week due to Nikon 16-35mm f4 no stock (after checking with shop in funan) Tested the lens on the Friday and I would said no regret with the picture quality. With D600, it will shows the focus is correct with a dot & out of focus shows left or right arrow.
 

Whit Ipad
8424253667_a57aa5730a_z.jpg


With filter Hitech Pro Stopt ND10 IR 30 seconds

8424255417_4397e8989b_z.jpg

10p 30sf16 f2043°33'52 N 6°49'37 W (1 de 1)-2-2


Nikon D800
Nikkor 14-24
Hitech Pro Stop ND10 IR
Filter holder LucrOit

without filter

8424254683_a6dc01a3b4_z.jpg


With filter Hitech Pro Stopt ND10 IR 120seconds
8425343852_555721b9ed_z.jpg

Nikon 14-24
filtro Hitech Pro stop ND10 IR
porta filtros Filter holder LucrOit
 

Last edited:
Whit Ipad
8424253667_a57aa5730a_z.jpg


With filter Hitech Pro Stopt ND10 IR 30 seconds

8424255417_4397e8989b_z.jpg

10p 30sf16 f2043°33'52 N 6°49'37 W (1 de 1)-2-2


Nikon D800
Nikkor 14-24
Hitech Pro Stop ND10 IR
Filter holder LucrOit

without filter

8424254683_a6dc01a3b4_z.jpg


With filter Hitech Pro Stopt ND10 IR 120seconds
8425343852_555721b9ed_z.jpg

Nikon 14-24
filtro Hitech Pro stop ND10 IR
porta filtros Filter holder LucrOit

thanks for sharing.
 

Visit us in facebok Javier Olmedo (filter holder) our page Lucroit in Facebok
There are many examples of photos taken with Lucroit & Hitech

for lens Nikon 14-24,Sigma 12-24, Sigma 8-16, Tokina16-28,Samyang 8mm, Samyang 14mm, Olimpus7-14, Pannasonic 7-14, Canon 14 L I , Canon 14 L II,Canon 17 TSE,Canon 8-15,
and one special for Zeiss 15mm handmade
 

Last edited:
if Nikon has something like a Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8 USM L II that would be great.. ;p
 

cheesy said:
if Nikon has something like a Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8 USM L II that would be great.. ;p

It's called the Nikon AF-S 17-35mm f/2.8. With arguably superior performance to boot. Your experience may vary.
 

oh ya totally forgotten about the 17-35mm f/2.8. hopefully the motor doesnt start giving problems.
 

oh ya totally forgotten about the 17-35mm f/2.8. hopefully the motor doesnt start giving problems.

Mine's been with me for more than 7 years. Works fine.