135mm f2.0 vs. 70-200mm f2.8 vs. 70-200mm f4 IS

[marboed]

hi guys, the price of three lens is nearly same, which is the best
the need is potrait, indoor event shooting, stage performance shooting
please give me some advise
thanks

 

[rendition]

Buy or rent? Rent, get 135. Buy, get 70-200 for versatility. I went with f/4 IS cuz of weight though it's sharper than the f/2.8.

 

[2evans]

From the info in your sig, you have a 70-200 2.8 IS?

You should know the advantages/disadvantages of the 70-200 already?

 

[unseen]

hi guys, the price of three lens is nearly same, which is the best
the need is potrait, indoor event shooting, stage performance shooting
please give me some advise
thanks

Personally, prime and F4 automatically disqualifies themselves from "indoor event" and "stage performance shooting".

 

[marboed]

From the info in your sig, you have a 70-200 2.8 IS?

You should know the advantages/disadvantages of the 70-200 already?

yes i intended to sold it and change to 135mm f2
the reason is simple, it not very sharp at 2.8
so better to have f4
but the 135mm f2 image quality beat all the lens

 

[iMac08]

135f2 limitation is its length...if u know the distance of yourself and your subject is comfortable for 135f2..then is really great...else the zoom has is more versatile...

i was also thinking of switching from f2.8 to f4 for the weight..but i realise f2.8 is still useful in low light situation.f4 cannot be f2.8 but f2.8 can change to f4

 

[lightning]

Personally, prime and F4 automatically disqualifies themselves from "indoor event" and "stage performance shooting".

I shoot stage performance mostly with 135mm...:sticktong

 

[marboed]

so bear with the 70-200mm and if have some budget then try to get the 135?

 

[lighty]

yes i intended to sold it and change to 135mm f2
the reason is simple, it not very sharp at 2.8
so better to have f4
but the 135mm f2 image quality beat all the lens

i do not understand why TS cannot stop down to F4 and you can have sharper pic? remember if you get F4 you can have F2.8 if you need it.

I believe it is due to the DOF and not the sharpest of the lenses.

 

[iMac08]

i do not understand why TS cannot stop down to F4 and you can have sharper pic? remember if you get F4 you can have F2.8 if you need it.

I believe it is due to the DOF and not the sharpest of the lenses.

Not really..if u really see an unedited shot of 135f2 wide open at f2..its sharpness is really undisputed compared to e f2.8 of 70-200.

 

[thengz]

I shoot stage performance mostly with 135mm...:sticktong

I shoot stage performance with 135L too.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=1718254&l=cb7f9a4ef2&id=569395381

 

[summereasy]

For 135L, it worth every coin you spend if the 135mm is the right length. You use it you feel it. I love 135mm so I guess I'm just lucky!

 

[surrephoto]

Personally, prime and F4 automatically disqualifies themselves from "indoor event" and "stage performance shooting".

This is one good sweeping statement.

First of all, if a photographer uses multiple bodies and chooses his primes careful, he can definately shoot events with only primes.

Secondly, f4 is only 1-stop away from f2.8. You can still boost your ISO and achieve a very good effect.

Furthermore, shooting a f4 assures more things are in focus. That can be smarter than shooting solely at f2.8 for any type of event.

 

[summereasy]

Secondly, f4 is only 1-stop away from f2.8. You can still boost your ISO and achieve a very good effect.

Like IS/VR never really solve all the problem for image blur, high ISO never really solve all the problems for low-light photography either. With a small aperture lens, say, f/4, you can never really get a fast sharp auto-focus on your subject, especially when they are moving.

 

[surrephoto]

Like IS/VR never really solve all the problem for image blur, high ISO never really solve all the problems for low-light photography either. With a small aperture lens, say, f/4, you can never really get a fast sharp auto-focus on your subject, especially when they are moving.

I believe most of our focusing screens are optimised for lenses f4 and beyond and the benefits of using a f2.8 and larger aperture lens may not be so great.

Someone do correct me if i'm wrong.

 

[summereasy]

I believe most of our focusing screens are optimised for lenses f4 and beyond and the benefits of using a f2.8 and larger aperture lens may not be so great.

Someone do correct me if i'm wrong.

Actually you are right about the focus screen. For most of people, they use a focus screen optimized for those lens equal or slower than f/2.8 (in fact f/2.5). But what I'm talking about has nothing related to the focus screen that we are using. The auto-focusing system for most pro/semi-pro cameras has the assistant focus point that optimized for the lens have f/2.8 or wider. It is for low-light shooting.

Here is the 5DMarkII sample:

http://www.kenrockwell.com/canon/images/5d-mkii/af-color.gif

In practical use, the light various a lot. For me when it gets too dark my 35L even gets fooled by auto-focus system. Most of the time 35L and 135L works fine. But for F/4 lens, I doubt they can finish the job perfectly. Maybe under sunshine, but with light-bulbs, no way. That's what fast lens design for.

 

[CS TAN]

This is one good sweeping statement.

First of all, if a photographer uses multiple bodies and chooses his primes careful, he can definately shoot events with only primes.

Secondly, f4 is only 1-stop away from f2.8. You can still boost your ISO and achieve a very good effect.

Furthermore, shooting a f4 assures more things are in focus. That can be smarter than shooting solely at f2.8 for any type of event.

I totally agree with you. If you have a 5d/5dmkii, shooting with f4 indoor is not really a problem if you can boost the ISO to 6400. At this high ISO, you can still get very low noise pictures with proper exposure.

 

[Cartman2000]

5d maxes out at 3200 lol.

 

[Headshotzx]

TS, 70-200 2.8L IS not sharp enough at ƒ2.8? Not sharp or not focusing correctly?

 

[surrephoto]

5d maxes out at 3200 lol.

Still can shoot -1 EV then push in lightroom etc.

Called ISO/Raw pushing i think.

Abit OT already.