It will be much easier if you can put up some 1:1 sample shots (non-edited) and the used settings for folks here to help. There's tonnes of things that could lead to a non sharp photo.
I feel that my hand is not stable, which may be one of the cause of it
Hi
I just got a D750 with kit lens and 50mm 1.8, but I feel that the photos that I shot is not really that sharp with 1:1.
I shot landscape and I will view the photos 1:1 in the light-room.
Regards
A few observations:
Your initial post was asking about the D750 with a 50/1.8 but your example photos were shot with the 24-120 f4 (VR?). Maybe you can clarify which lens you're having trouble with, or both?
Your examples do seem to be not particularly crisp even though the shutter speeds seem adequate. Best way is to try and eliminate some variables with a bit of testing.
As suggested, try some tripod tests to find out just how sharp your copy of the lens is. Then with good hand held technique and adequate shutter speeds you should be able to get similar results. If not, then there's something about your technique.
Are you using VR? If so, don't use VR for shots above 1/500s (which I know you haven't in your examples but this is just a general rule for Nikon VR). Also when using VR, let the VR engage for a second and stabilise with a half press before full press to trigger the shutter. I don't own the 24-120 but some Nikon lenses have different VR modes so make sure you're in the right mode for the occasion.
I'd generally leave VR off unless my shutter speeds are starting to approach the 1/FL rule then I'd engage it for some insurance.
In terms of your two examples, the first one at 24mm has some issues in the corners with smearing and CA but that could just be the limitation of the lens. To me the left side is worse than the right, possibly indicating a little decentering of the lens.
In the second example, only the central portion is in focus. The rest is out of the DOF of the aperture chosen. But even for the central portion, it appears the 24-120 lens is not particularly strong at the tele end anyways:
http://www.photozone.de/nikon_ff/574-nikkorafs24120f4vrff?start=1
The possible lens optical issues coupled with possible technique issues may indeed result in images looking quite soft when viewed up close eg. at 1:1.
In your reply, you recommend to turn off the VR when shutter speed is faster than 1/500, but the 24-120 cannot switch the VR off like the canon.
the first photo, the left side does seems slightly softer than the right. A bit of de-centering?
To me the left side is worse than the right, possibly indicating a little decentering of the lens
Hi all, I found that most of the pics that the 24-120 lens produced are softer on the left side. Do anyone thinks that the decentering problem is big here that I need to go down to nikon centre to fix it?
These are the other photos that I have taken
https://www.flickr.com/photos/139490676@N07/albums/72157665233393733
and I will test the lens with flat surface during the weekend and see how it goes
I'd probably not worry about decentering at this stage and small amount of decentering are not uncommon with many lenses. I see bigger issues with your general technique to be quite honest.
Anyways, decentering is best tested at infinity so finding a scene where all the detail is far away is best.
Testing is best done on tripods too and if you haven't already done so, also check your AF accuracy.
I don't think you can get simpler than this:
http://bobatkins.com/photography/technical/focus_testing.html
I have did the test with my 2 lens.
The 50mm is very fine with manual or Auto focus; While the 24-120, I cant really test it as the aperture is @ 4( the whole paper is sharp)
I found that both lens produce sharp test pics when i use the table as a tripod.
However, I see that the pics from my 24-120, seems to be softer on the (far)left side than the right. Will it be a major issue if I print it A3+ size ?
and i have read somewhere that all lens will have some kind of de centralised issue. Is that true?
Regards
As swifty metioned, I think there are more things to be concerned about rather than the de-centralised issue.
Don't worry about printing A3++ sizes. Even if it's going to be printed at large size, people will be also standing further away to view it and not scrutinize pixel by pixel on the print.
The decentralizing issue does occur, but usually, that is after years of usage (or abuse), due to movements via walking or "knocking" in the bags on in the vehicle etc... .. ..
On another note, when shooting at wide open, don't expect that the image will be sharp edge to edge. Frankly, when exported and uploaded online (500px, flickr, facebook etc.), no one can tell the difference. If anyone could tell the differences when uploaded via those channels, I think it's also time to send to the service center for a long overdue checkup.
** Viewers are less likely to notice any minor flaws as compared to the photographer who shot it.
I'll echo some of skystrike's advice. Don't get too bogged down with minor detail. Focus (pardon the pun) on the big picture and getting the basics right.
In terms of AF fine tuning, it can be extremely simple or very difficult depending on how pedantic you want to be. But a quick explanation: for Nikon cameras you can only have one fine tune value per lens regardless of zooms or prime. The trouble is some lens may need different values at different focal lengths and focus distances.
Fortunately lenses don't tend to vary that wildly and unless you're photographing very close subjects with very large apertures, the DOF tends to hide any inaccuracies.
So if you're photographing a target chart (do it at the widest aperture with the central AF point) at a close-ish distance and it is sharp, then your stopped down results photographing subjects at a distance shouldn't have enough focus issues to cause problems.
So your soft results are coming from elsewhere.
Later when you're comfortable with the basics, then go back to properly fine tune your lenses and you'll find your results may improve even more. Then try tripods, mirror-up, remote trigger, EFC etc. and results may continue to improve from the basics.
I guess what I'm saying is eliminate your largest source of error first, then work on the finer detail later.
So what are some of the basics. Your shutter speed and hand holding technique. The 1/FL guide for shutter speed is only a guide. People often recommend 1/2*FL or 1/3*FL for shutter speeds especially with high MP cameras.
This assumes you're holding the camera and triggering the shutter correctly. Nikonzen reminded you of this earlier in this thread.
The triggering part I've already talked about, especially if you're utilising the lens VR but also its a soft press and not a stabbing press that I see a lot of people do. On longer lenses, make sure you're supporting the lens with the left hand, actually I recommend you always support the lens with your left hand, elbows tucked in. Just get in the good habit.
Making sure the camera locks focus on what you want it to focus on (solid green dot confirmation). Which means you may need to find areas of higher contrast within the same plane of focus, AF lock then recompose. Or shift your AF point. If you're letting the camera choose your AF points, you may want to start controlling the AF points yourself. Make sure you're in the right AF mode of course.
Knowing the effects of aperture and its relationship with DOF. So things will only be considered reasonably sharp within the DOF. DOF also relates to viewing distance which relates to viewing your images at 1:1 or fit to screen or printed to x size and viewed from y distance etc. Know that lens perform differently at various apertures and focal lengths. And you get diminishing returns stopping down further as diffraction effects start to set in beyond a certain point.
I won't go on cos I've probably already blabbered on too much but I think you get the idea