Newbie about flash

[ST4Ever]

hi, would like to ask about flash (my D3300 built-in flash), I am using the manual mode and whenever I pop the flash up, the shutter speed will be tuned to 1/200 or maybe lower.. is it adjustable? if I get an external flash, let say SB700, will the shutter speed be still kept to 1/200? or this flash sync is only applicable to the built-in flash? thanks in advance.

 

[voice123]

the max sync speed is 1/200, to break this u need high speed sync flash

 

[ST4Ever]

the max sync speed is 1/200, to break this u need high speed sync flash

meaning an external flash unit like Sb700 etc? or any other external flash unit?

 

[catchlights]

Read your camera user manual, about flash sync speed, and it relative to exposure mode.

and fyi, I don't think D3300 support high speed sync..

http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/dslr/d3300/spec.htm

 

[ST4Ever]

Read your camera user manual, about flash sync speed, and it relative to exposure mode.

and fyi, I don't think D3300 support high speed sync..

http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/dslr/d3300/spec.htm

1/200 is the flash sync. Is this flash sync for the built in flash or it will also b that fastest when using external flash?

 

[NormanSelvaraju]

Your camera shutter is made of two "screens". The front curtain and rear curtain. When you click, the front curtain opens first and then the rear curtain closes, capturing the image on the sensor. The sensor starts receiving information the moment the front curtain opens, without waiting for it to fully open. The fastest your camera's front curtain can open up fully is 1/200s. Therefore when you use non high sync flash (be it an in-built flash or external flash), at any speed faster than 1/200s (eg 1/250, 1/400 etc) your front curtain will still open at only open at 1/200s at most. Hence, you get an image that is completely without any illumination from the flash if your speed is very high. At times, you may get a black or darkened bar/band on your image. This bar shows you the part of the sensor that is covered by the front curtain when the shutter is clicked. To overcome this, you'd need to either stick to shooting at a lower speed(1/200, 1/180,1/160 etc) or using a high speed sync flash or using continuos light. Cheers.

 

[ST4Ever]

Your camera shutter is made of two "screens". The front curtain and rear curtain. When you click, the front curtain opens first and then the rear curtain closes, capturing the image on the sensor. The sensor starts receiving information the moment the front curtain opens, without waiting for it to fully open. The fastest your camera's front curtain can open up fully is 1/200s. Therefore when you use non high sync flash (be it an in-built flash or external flash), at any speed faster than 1/200s (eg 1/250, 1/400 etc) your front curtain will still open at only open at 1/200s at most. Hence, you get an image that is completely without any illumination from the flash if your speed is very high. At times, you may get a black or darkened bar/band on your image. This bar shows you the part of the sensor that is covered by the front curtain when the shutter is clicked. To overcome this, you'd need to either stick to shooting at a lower speed(1/200, 1/180,1/160 etc) or using a high speed sync flash or using continuos light. Cheers.

Thanks. My camera does not support hss either. Guess it will take some time for me to play around and understand how to overcome the limitation

 

[NormanSelvaraju]

Well, seeing that you are intent on increasing shutter speed. I'm guessing that you are trying to kill the ambient light or capturing a fast moving object.

You could try decreasing your ISO, using a high aperature value (f8,f16) or even using a nd filter. Do let us know what you are trying to achieve as typically, most photogs are able to capture most scenes within the flash sync speed of the camera. I'm on a EOS 6d and my flash sync is way worse at 1/160.

 

[Light Machinery]

So, are you trying to use fill flash with wide open aperture on a bright day & you find that the shutter speed is maxed out at 1/200 sec? If you are using fill flash on a bright day, just get a ND filter so that you can use a shutter speed below 1/200sec.

The D3300 doesn't have FP sync function, so you will not be able to use the pop up flash or a hot shoe flash with shutter speed faster than 1/200sec.

Once the flash is used on the D3300, in P & A mode the shutter speed is controlled by the camera & is limited between 1/60 to 1/200sec. In S & M mode the max shutter speed is limited to 1/200sec, the min shutter speed is controlled by the user.

I hope the statements above clarifies the usage of flash on the D3300 for you ST4Ever.

 

[ST4Ever]

Well, seeing that you are intent on increasing shutter speed. I'm guessing that you are trying to kill the ambient light or capturing a fast moving object.

You could try decreasing your ISO, using a high aperature value (f8,f16) or even using a nd filter. Do let us know what you are trying to achieve as typically, most photogs are able to capture most scenes within the flash sync speed of the camera. I'm on a EOS 6d and my flash sync is way worse at 1/160.

So, are you trying to use fill flash with wide open aperture on a bright day & you find that the shutter speed is maxed out at 1/200 sec? If you are using fill flash on a bright day, just get a ND filter so that you can use a shutter speed below 1/200sec.

The D3300 doesn't have FP sync function, so you will not be able to use the pop up flash or a hot shoe flash with shutter speed faster than 1/200sec.

Once the flash is used on the D3300, in P & A mode the shutter speed is controlled by the camera & is limited between 1/60 to 1/200sec. In S & M mode the max shutter speed is limited to 1/200sec, the min shutter speed is controlled by the user.

I hope the statements above clarifies the usage of flash on the D3300 for you ST4Ever.

thanks both of you for your thoughts.. I am still not sure what I am going to do.. I am still trying to learn things around and is also thinking to add a flash for usage. while reading more, I ended up with the queries. still thinking if I should get the yongnuo 565ex (Nikon use) or get the Nikon SBx00... and while testing the built-in flash, realise that the shutter is always 1/200 the fastest speed. so wonder if high speed sync flash is useful etc.. for my camera otherwise need to splash extra money for features that won't be used. my ex-classmate told me he bought a flash for his canon but it is left unused most of the time.

initially, I thought that with an external flash I can achieve faster speed for "freezing" moving objects, but guess it is not possible with D3300 due to the sync limit. but then again, how many times will I be freezing moving objects... please pardon me, still on my learning curve.

 

[Light Machinery]

Well, if you are using the camera normally & use flash in a dim / low light situation I don't think you will ever need to use a high shutter speed, you will need to keep the shutter speed at 1/30 to 1/60 hand held. If you have a tripod you can just use slow sync mode. If you do need to use fill flash on a bright day with wide open apertures just get a ND filter.

If you are looking to freeze motion with the flash, all flash can freeze motion by virtue of the short flash duration. The lower the manual power the flash is set, the shorter the flash duration becomes . To do this you will need to shoot in a darkened room, with the aperture already opened, trigger the flash / strobe when the subject crosses the camera.

This is how a picture like a exploding balloon is taken. The freeze motion was not done by the shutter speed but by the ultra short duration of the flash in a darkened room.

The trick is to set up a trigger mechanism (IR light beam or sound) to trigger the flash / strobe just at the right moment to freeze the subject in the frame.

Answered your question?

Under most shooting conditions a hot shoe or remote flash when used with diffusers will add light to the subject & remove shadows. It is the manipulation of the light on the subject that makes a picture bland or stand out.

I too have a friend that doesn't make use of the flash that I bought for him. He finds it difficult to learn to shoot with a flash.

On a personal note, I am multiple flash junkie.

 

[Shizuma]

I am curious what original poster is aiming for with HSS specs

 

[ST4Ever]

Well, if you are using the camera normally & use flash in a dim / low light situation I don't think you will ever need to use a high shutter speed, you will need to keep the shutter speed at 1/30 to 1/60 hand held. If you have a tripod you can just use slow sync mode. If you do need to use fill flash on a bright day with wide open apertures just get a ND filter.

If you are looking to freeze motion with the flash, all flash can freeze motion by virtue of the short flash duration. The lower the manual power the flash is set, the shorter the flash duration becomes . To do this you will need to shoot in a darkened room, with the aperture already opened, trigger the flash / strobe when the subject crosses the camera.

This is how a picture like a exploding balloon is taken. The freeze motion was not done by the shutter speed but by the ultra short duration of the flash in a darkened room.

The trick is to set up a trigger mechanism (IR light beam or sound) to trigger the flash / strobe just at the right moment to freeze the subject in the frame.

Answered your question?

Under most shooting conditions a hot shoe or remote flash when used with diffusers will add light to the subject & remove shadows. It is the manipulation of the light on the subject that makes a picture bland or stand out.

I too have a friend that doesn't make use of the flash that I bought for him. He finds it difficult to learn to shoot with a flash.

On a personal note, I am multiple flash junkie.

thank you for explanation. =)

 

[ST4Ever]

I am curious what original poster is aiming for with HSS specs

asking to clear doubts and also queries on flash to use on D3300. =)

 

[Light Machinery]

SB400 & the newly launched SB500 is light & compact.

SB600 & SB800, although discontinued & available used are more than powerful enough for casual use.

SB700 is also good. Smaller than the SB900 & very powerful.

SB900 & SB910 is a bit too big for the D3300.

I just use the SB 400 & SB700 for travels & casual shots.

The SB900 are used for the $$$ shots, it's too big & heavy to be lugging all day while travelling.

The older generation of speed light like SB28DX, SB80DX will not work with the D3300.

 

[ST4Ever]

SB400 & the newly launched SB500 is light & compact.

SB600 & SB800, although discontinued & available used are more than powerful enough for casual use.

SB700 is also good. Smaller than the SB900 & very powerful.

SB900 & SB910 is a bit too big for the D3300.

I just use the SB 400 & SB700 for travels & casual shots.

The SB900 are used for the $$$ shots, it's too big & heavy to be lugging all day while travelling.

thank you.. I am waiting for the sb500 to be available locally. but as going thru' the specs, the GN is 24 while the SB700 is around 28. shall wait it to arrive on shore and maybe visit Nikon showroom and try out if possible before purchasing.

 

[Walker36]

Interesting.

 

[Shizuma]

ST you may be better off buying a Yongnuo 5 series. great power and build without the crazy price. 560-3 even has internal wireless triggers.

as for sound sensors triggering, certain canon models can do it with the Magic Lantern software overlay (my old rebel Canon 500D) can do sound trigger with selectable loudness sensitivity

 

[ST4Ever]

ST you may be better off buying a Yongnuo 5 series. great power and build without the crazy price. 560-3 even has internal wireless triggers.

as for sound sensors triggering, certain canon models can do it with the Magic Lantern software overlay (my old rebel Canon 500D) can do sound trigger with selectable loudness sensitivity

I shortlisted the 565EX as it can also be used as a slave for Nikon CLS (shd in the future I become more well versed and to get a Nikon) Price is much cheaper to Nikon aa you mentioned. Slightly more than 560. My manager who is into photography asked me to consider metz.