Hoya is fine, B+W is also fine. To my knowledge, Hoya makes ND400, which is about 8 or 9 stops (do the math yourself). B+W has ND106 (6 stops) and ND110 (10 stops). The two are comparable but not exactly the same. I think the price difference is not that great. I've used all 3 and they all have warming issues (natural, due to IR leakage. The less strong ND filters have a lesser problem, naturally) which are easily corrected if you shoot in RAW. These are all screw-in filters.How to determine good quality? Those hoya can? Or must get b+w?
As we know lens perform best between f4.0 to f8.0. However for long exposure, we need to shoot at f22 or use at least 3 stops ND filter. So my question is, which one produces better image quality as well as sharpness?
Shooting at f/22 on crop will cause blur images due to diffraction on the small aperture. For crop, use f/16 at most.As we know lens perform best between f4.0 to f8.0. However for long exposure, we need to shoot at f22 or use at least 3 stops ND filter. So my question is, which one produces better image quality as well as sharpness?
silvermoon1407 said:Is there like an ideal duration for LE shots? Of course diff situations will require diff settings, but is there a general guideline for a typical LE scene, like night sceneries with or without city lights, smoothing out river flow, getting those dramatic clouds etc... not interested in super long LE like star trail etc... given iso 100 and f8-11, what would b a gd shutter speed to experiment with for decent exposure, which may equate to what kinda ND I should get...
I would suggest running a test to see how bad the soften due to defraction is at F22, F16, & F8. Why ? each lens has a different behavior pattern it is not the same for all example a 24, 50, 85, 105 or 180 will not return identical results. Use the lens you plan to work with understand it's quirks. Yah it is good to look at images for a magnification point other than 200% or 100% try print size try 50% more than print size.
As we know lens perform best between f4.0 to f8.0. However for long exposure, we need to shoot at f22 or use at least 3 stops ND filter. So my question is, which one produces better image quality as well as sharpness?
How to determine good quality? Those hoya can? Or must get b+w?
I was thinking f8 only. So it seems I should get 3 stops nd. Hope it's enough. Otherwise hard to compose.
The more modern implementations of Live View also usually allow one to compose even with screw-in filter on... Until it gets too dark anyways. :bsmilie:Drop-in filter systems are quite expensive, especially Lee, but they do offer the convenience of taking the drop in filters out, and recomposing shots. But for me, screw in filters, typically cheaper, will work. It's sometimes just a tweak of your process of taking a shot will be sufficient. Just mount on tripod, compose properly first, then screw the ND filter in. Don't be in such a hurry to screw them in. ;-)
edutilos- said:The more modern implementations of Live View also usually allow one to compose even with screw-in filter on... Until it gets too dark anyways. :bsmilie:
hmm, i was wondering will i get different images if i shoot with my f/32 vs a 10stop on f22?
anyone has any views to share? thks.
hmm, i was wondering will i get different images if i shoot with my f/32 vs a 10stop on f22?
anyone has any views to share? thks.