Hi Guys I've a few questions about night photography. I'm using a nikon D7000 and was wondering if I should get a flash for my night photography. I'm into taking potraits people at night and was wondering if a flash is needed. If we increase the exopsure time without using flash, making the model stand there for like 8 seconds, will we be seen as unprofessional? I believe that with the long exopsure we'll be able to capture the beasutiful scenary lights as well but with flash the scenary light might not be that outstanding. I'm not sure if I'm on the right track, please guide me.
Taking night potraits.
- Thread starter hamburger
- Start date
just think about it logically... u ask a person to stand still there for 8 seconds, do u tink that's practical? we r humans n we can't be like statues n freeze there perfectly n not move for 8 seconds fyi
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Just get a flash and above all learn how to use it. 
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html
Gd luck
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html
Gd luck
Haha, Irvine is right -- you don't want to torture your subjects!
It is entirely possible to use flash (built-in or hotshoe) to light your subjects in the foreground, without affecting the colourful lighting or whatever in the background, as long as there is adequate separation. Look up the inverse-square law if you don't know it.
If your subjects are 2m away, and you scenery is, say, 8m away, the intensity of light from your flash illuminating the scenery is 1/16 or 4 stops less than that on your subjects.
Try it with your pop-up flash.
It is entirely possible to use flash (built-in or hotshoe) to light your subjects in the foreground, without affecting the colourful lighting or whatever in the background, as long as there is adequate separation. Look up the inverse-square law if you don't know it.
If your subjects are 2m away, and you scenery is, say, 8m away, the intensity of light from your flash illuminating the scenery is 1/16 or 4 stops less than that on your subjects.
Try it with your pop-up flash.
Don't be so cruel to your model. :bsmilie:
Without a flash, night portraits will be very, very difficult/challenging and your model will appear OOF even if he/she "stands still" for 8 seconds. For night landscapes, probably you don't need a flash as your subjects will likely be outside the flash's effective distance (approx. 10 feet).
I think this website has quite good read on understanding Nikon flash system. Start from part 1: http://nikonclspracticalguide.blogspot.com/
Another website I do recommend you to check out is Neil vN's Tangents... http://neilvn.com/tangents/index/flash-photography/
Once you understand how flash exposure and the camera variables (ISO, shutter speed, aperture) work together, you'll know what kind of settings to dial in.
Another website I do recommend you to check out is Neil vN's Tangents... http://neilvn.com/tangents/index/flash-photography/
Once you understand how flash exposure and the camera variables (ISO, shutter speed, aperture) work together, you'll know what kind of settings to dial in.
Yes it is. You can try to stand for 8 seconds yourself, without moving anything at all. Is it possible?
what i enjoyed was seeing the word "unprofessional". understand the limitations of your equipment before you help people
Use a flash. No other way round if you are going to shoot night portrait... or up your ISO to very very high, then clean up your pics with post processing (although I doubt too much can be done).
Sir Stamford Raffles can do it. Has been standing at Empress Place w/o moving since February 1919.:bsmilie:
Goosh.. You mean he did move?!?! The only time I can think of was probably during the Japanese invasion of Singapore when he tried to escape the bombings.. Otherwise he should be at Empress Place since 1919.
asking your subject(s) to stand still is possible. i've posed for night portraits with light trails (from traffic on Orchard road) before. however, not all shots were good (sometimes 1-2 people in the group photo moved). f/1.4 or f/1.8 lens might work if you are okay with a blur background. for sharp background (by stopping down the aperture), flash helps, but it can't be too overpowering (and you have to meter correctly) if not you might end up with a dark background.
hamburger said:
I saw pros that make the model stand for 15-20 second exposures and use a flashlight to do light painting before. The pics come out really impressive. Don't worry about the 'eyes on you'. Just do your own magic.
any experts can comment on my methodhaven't got chance to try)
night group portrait,
iso can go to 1600,
first use P mode no flash to get an idea of exposure for ambient lights...
eg camera says shutter 1/10...f4...look at viewfinder whether ambient ok or not...
switch to M, dial 1/10 and set dial f4 or f6.3 for group > 4 pple...ETTL and fire away..with second curtain syn...then FEC adjust for desired exposure or increase iso...
wonder what speed below which the second syn flash be most affected by ETTL pre flash?
haven't got chance to try)night group portrait,
iso can go to 1600,
first use P mode no flash to get an idea of exposure for ambient lights...
eg camera says shutter 1/10...f4...look at viewfinder whether ambient ok or not...
switch to M, dial 1/10 and set dial f4 or f6.3 for group > 4 pple...ETTL and fire away..with second curtain syn...then FEC adjust for desired exposure or increase iso...
wonder what speed below which the second syn flash be most affected by ETTL pre flash?
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