Just to check with you guy,ND 400 + ND 110 = how many stop? :think:
Hoya ND400: 9 stops
B+W ND110: 10 stops
= 19 stops
Not sure if you can stack them though. Maybe the pros can enlighten us. BTW, may I know why do you need both? Super duper long exposure?
as pointed out by bojee and bodhi, the total exposure reduction is 19 stops.Just to check with you guy,ND 400 + ND 110 = how many stop? :think:
Hoya ND400: 9 stops
B+W ND110: 10 stops
= 19 stops
Not sure if you can stack them though. Maybe the pros can enlighten us. BTW, may I know why do you need both? Super duper long exposure?
as pointed out by bojee and bodhi, the total exposure reduction is 19 stops.
It is not pratical to stack these two filters together to get a total 19 stops,
the camera meter will no longer able to read the light, you have to manual calculation.
if it is only Sunny f16 condition, the expousre time will be like ISO 200, f8, 6mins
if it is cloudy, the exposure time will be 30mins
if it is in dusk hour, the exposure time will be in hour
if it is in night, the exposure time will be in days
Daddypal said:Im interested in doing a long exposure.not sure whether is it wise to stack along b+W nd110 and fader 4-400nd filter.by the way,anybody know how to do a manual calcuation? now i using a chart for reference only
Im interested in doing a long exposure.not sure whether is it wise to stack along b+W nd110 and fader 4-400nd filter.by the way,anybody know how to do a manual calcuation? now i using a chart for reference only
yes, follow DD123 suggestion,It is quite simple really.
fixed aperture and iso, metered shutter speed without filter. When add nd110, multiply the shutter speed by 1000. When add nd400, just multiply shutter speed by 400.
as pointed out by bojee and bodhi, the total exposure reduction is 19 stops.
It is not pratical to stack these two filters together to get a total 19 stops,
the camera meter will no longer able to read the light, you have to manual calculation.
if it is only Sunny f16 condition, the expousre time will be like ISO 200, f8, 6mins
if it is cloudy, the exposure time will be 30mins
if it is in dusk hour, the exposure time will be in hour
if it is in night, the exposure time will be in days
coolthought said:add one more lee big stopper 10 stops.
The exposure time will be days, months and years. ;p
ts. have you consider the type of colour cast you will get when stacking these filters and how difficult it is to remove them?
It is quite simple really.
fixed aperture and iso, metered shutter speed without filter. When add nd110, multiply the shutter speed by 1000. When add nd400, just multiply shutter speed by 400.
...just a newbie here...looks interesting...can you elaborate further..i mean, is there any significance between the filter name and its associated stop value when it's come to calculation? a bit confused leh...
...just a newbie here...looks interesting...can you elaborate further..i mean, is there any significance between the filter name and its associated stop value when it's come to calculation? a bit confused leh...
For Hoya ND filters, the number beside the filter name represents the factor which it will extend your shutter speed by. So ND8 gives you shutter speeds 8 times longer. ND400 gives you shutter speed 400 times longer.
For B+W filters, the model number shows you the number of stops instead - ND106 = 6 stops. ND110 = 10 stops. But if you look at the label on the cardboard box of the ND110, it also list x1000. Which means it gives you shutter speed 1000 times more. 10 stops really meant x1024, but since the box says 1000 times, then just do 1000 times. It is easier to calculate too.
let say the original shutter speed is 1/200secso does that mean shutter speed of 1/200 * 1000 ? = to the amount of time?
let say the original shutter speed is 1/200sec
after adding a ND110, the shutter speed will be (1/200 x 1000) = (1000/200) = 5 sec