Help! Canon 1D Mk1 or 30D


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cyrzk

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Jul 4, 2007
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Hello everybody, soory for this very noob question.just want to ask your views on what camera body to choose with a little budget between the old but trusty 1D mark 1 and the newer 30D specially for sports and wildlife. advantages ang disadvantages?

thank you very much
 

Better reed the reviews of both and then decide the pros and cons.
 

I'd go with the 30D. User interface is easier for a newbie to get used to, and image quality is a little better, especially at high ISOs.
 

Hello everybody, soory for this very noob question.just want to ask your views on what camera body to choose with a little budget between the old but trusty 1D mark 1 and the newer 30D specially for sports and wildlife. advantages ang disadvantages?

thank you very much

What kind of sport? definitely AF is much better on 1D, but for the high ISO 30D is the winner, max acceptable ISO with 1D i can use is ISO 1000 with +0.3 - 0.7 compensation to help blow out the noise.

if you really particular with AF speed (grab the cam, composite and press the shutter instantly), TIFF format Raw, 1/500 flash sync then go for 1D.

but if you think you can deal without it, 30D is better choice for you.
 

thank you for the replies..

@rashkae-i already red reviews on both sides..and i also want to know the views of the masters here in CS who are well experienced(aside from their photography prowress), most specially on cam and gears they use, since a hands on experience is also credible.

@xl1 and calebk- thanks for your sharing. i prefer more on outdoor sports sir.
 

30D Specs

1D Specs

see which one more suitable for u.

allroundview-001.jpg


allroundview-001.jpg
 

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I had not use the MK1 before but heard it drains the battery very fast. Why not get a 2nd hand 1Dmk2? Price around S$2k range now. I'm using one and loving it.
 

My Mk1 is still churning happily for non-landscape shoots, and the 30D has been since upgraded.

Here's my thoughts for this classic.

1.) Sucks those NP-E3 dry quickly. I can squeeze 150-250 shots from a freshly charged. Workaround is to buy more NP-E3 and train your muscles :bsmilie:. You can get them pretty cheaply from Ebay, but do avoid those from Camera Devices (lame juice life, and unpredictable behaviour). Weather sealing advantage is probably gone, since these chiong NP-E3 sealant and build is no where near the original.

2.) Sensor produces obvious hotspots even at ISO200. Not a biggie to me. Adobe Lightroom solves them like wonder.

3.) Sensor produces obvious purple corners when you are exposing for more than 12 seconds. Not good for landscape stuffs.

4.) Greenish JPG outputs. Solution is to load in 'degreen' tone curves. Forget about shooting JPG, go with its RAW/TIF since the latter is so small, and with Lightroom, there's so much flexibilities.

5.) Filesystem. FAT16 only. So your 4GB CF card becomes 2GB :) Not too sure it's a con or a pro, since, you can buy those 2GB CF lagi cheap nowadays.

6.) No Zoom for picture preview and the LCD is miserably small and pathetic. That is when those histograms are god send. Also gives you the kind of waiting for the films to be developed feeling haha.

7.) The AF system will amaze you if you are coming from the XXD/XXXD series. It's lightning fast and accurate, especially it's AI-Servo, which tracks like a homing missile. For low light, somehow the 40D center point works better.

8.) Accurate spot metering. Selectable AF points linked spot metering, and even multi spot metering.

9.) Ergonomics. It's just tad great!

10.) 8fps, paired with it's superb tracking and USM lenses = :devil:

11.) Significantly bigger viewfinder.

12.) E-TTL only.

13.) You need to learn how to clean the sensor yourself, since, the Mk1 is rather attractive to dust.

14.) Noise/banding. It's not tad clean by today's standards even at ISO200, but, i kinda love those characteristics. I prefer my photos not to be too clean.

15.) Not much room for post cropping. Kinda train you to compose heh.

16.) Wonderful sound it makes each time you pressed the button :p

17.) The user interface will turn you off big time at first, but, you will grow into it later.

18.) Built-in microphone for voice tagging haha.

OK, i biased towards the 1D. Sports/actions/press is what the Mk1 is built for.

It's a 1 Series, and, it's really different! The moment you handle it, physical and mentally, you will feel the difference... even it's tad old.

Lastly, the output this 4 megapixel classic produces never cease to amaze me! It has something magical to it.

Cheers!
 

only those 2 bodies?

can consider the K10D and especially K20D for its burst mode with enough leftover for decent lens. Provided of course you have no lens collection to re-use.

The 1D is pretty good for photographing moving wildlife if you have fast lens.
 

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Even though the 1D has the highest x-sync speed at 1/500 and fastest shutter speed at 1/16000, it utilises a CCD sensor and noise level even at ISO 400 is quite bad already.
 

thank you very much masters for the replies.

@flipfreak- so much thanks for the link:thumbsup:,have come across with that,and still reading and viewing up to know..hehehehe.

@DeSwitch- thanks for the input sir,if only my budget can fit to 1D mk2 sir,then there is no prob at all.:D

@mummum - that was one hell of enlightenment to me:thumbsup:, its my 1st ever to hear from a master who is a 1D user(hope it'll not confuse:think: me more..hehehe).very well said sir..its like listening for a day in a workshop of what a 1D mk 1 is...i appreciate much your sharing sir.:thumbsup:already bookmarked ur page sir..hehehe

@Reportage - thanks for the added inputs of showing me other options sir.

@Snoweagle - does the noise at ISO 400 is already visibly bad sir?..btw,thank you much for the help sir.
 

@Snoweagle - does the noise at ISO 400 is already visibly bad sir?..btw,thank you much for the help sir.

I've tried before. In daytime if u do not pixel-peep, it's still ok but for night, pretty visible.
 

There are specialized equipment and techniques for taking pictures in the dark..its just how much you are willing to endure, whether have the budget as well as the skill. By varying the 3, more or less you can guess the useability of the photos. But in the case of wildlife...i do believe accurate useable photos is much better compared to high quality but "artistic" photos. :D
 

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TS, as noise acceptance level is subjective to individual, here's a sample for you to decide yourself.

RAW and processed in Adobe Lightroom.

ISO400

C26C7002.jpg


...and cropped

1D_ISO400_CROP.jpg
 

@Reportage - thanks once again sir:D.im also taking into considerations of how really my skills will matter or improved since im still very new in this hobby.

@mummum - very nice take sir:thumbsup:.very sensual indeed..heheh..as for me noise is tolerable in some case..it added drama to images with that grainy effect..btw can you share the exif of the image you posted sir?

thank you very much for the help.
 

another query that keeps bugging me is the 4.2mp of the classic 1D comapred to a 8.2mp of the 30D.is it really an issue?
 

I really love the way the AF points are laid out in the 1d. To me, they're in all the right places, and sometimes, especially when shooting sports, having an AF point directly on the subject(not having to focus and recompose, which is harder on a moving subject), can go a long way towards helping you snag that shot.
 

another query that keeps bugging me is the 4.2mp of the classic 1D comapred to a 8.2mp of the 30D.is it really an issue?

Do you print big images? At your level, I seriously doubt a high resolution sensor is the bulk of your worries. Small sensors mean smaller file sizes. Sure, you won't be able to do a 18"x12" print, but I'm sure 4.2 megapixels won't cripple you.
 

another query that keeps bugging me is the 4.2mp of the classic 1D comapred to a 8.2mp of the 30D.is it really an issue?

At 3.2MP, i can print a full pic on an S8R without quality loss. So unless u always print larger than that, then u might have an issue.
 

At 3.2MP, i can print a full pic on an S8R without quality loss. So unless u always print larger than that, then u might have an issue.

The optimum L x W pixel resolution for a S8R print is (12 x 300dpi) by (8 x 300dpi) which comes up to 3,600 x 2,400 (8.6 megapixels). You will be compromising on your pixel density (i.e printing at less than 300dpi) if you use a lower-resolution image file. In realistic use, I'm not sure how much that will affect detail on the print, but do note that 3.2 megapixels is less than half of the optimum resolution.
 

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