Buying 2nd hand


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knodd

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May 1, 2008
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hello guys,

i've had pretty bad experiences buying cameras second hand, so i was thinking of starting this thread so that maybe some of the more experienced guys in this forum can share their knowledge with newer guys (like me) about buying rangefinders second hand.

besides superficial external damage what are some important things to take note of when buying second hand? what are some things that special note should be taken of before making the purchase?

hope to learn from you guys experiences. thanks alot! :)
 

I think there's something known as vertical alignment in the rangefinder. If you bonk the camera hard enough it might go off.

Other than that just use the 1sec test to test the shutter speed, i.e. set the camera's shutter to 1 sec, fire off and check it against your watch. If it's off it'll be very obvious. Of course this isn't very accurate but it'll give you a bit more assurance that the shutter is working as it should.

Stuff like that I suppose...
 

Lets divide the tests to a few parts

First off, DO your homework on the quirks and issues of the camera in question. Next, ASK the owner about any perceived quirks about it, any cases of dropping, etc.

Try not to buy "project" or scrap cameras unless you know how to refurbish them or can get it at a very low price.

Now for the actual test. Take note the test is not exhausive and that many of the sections are really common sense.

Exterior
- Check for large dents at key components like the top of the camera near the rangefinder, near the lens/lens mount.
- Check for loose parts.
- Check for the functionality of the buttons/switches. (Especially that the camera WINDS properly)
- Check focusing (also see rangefinder/viewfinder)
- Check focus ring (if lens is included). This should be smooth throughout and not too loose/tight or jerky.
- Check that the aperture blades close properly and that no oil are present on them.
- Check that the lens mounts securely on and off.
- Check the condition of the glass, whether there be any haze, dust spots, oil on blades, etc.


Interior

- Check the film advance is working.
- Run a finger over the film guide rails. They should be smooth to the touch.
- Check that the spring back resists when you push against it and not be flat.
- If possible, run a scrap roll through and rewind while leaving the back open to see film advance and rewind is proper.
- Interior should be clean.
- Check light seals (if any).
- Check for obvious light leaks.


Rangfinder/Viewfinder
- Viewfinder should be clean and clear.
- Rangefinder spot should be easy to see and use.
- No misalignment of the vertical or horizontal alighment of the rangefinder.
- Framelines (if any) should be easy to see.


Shutter

If Cloth
- Check against a bright source of light for pinholes in the shutter cloth. Check once before you wind and after you wind the shutter.
- Check for cracks or wrinkling in the shutter material.

If Metal
- Check if metal blades are properly aligned and open and close easily with no collision when winding and firing the shutter

Shutter speeds for both.
- 1 sec - 1/60 should sound different from 1/60 - 1/1000 and beyond. Also, all speeds should sound slightly different from each other. More apparent on older cloth shuttered cameras. Metal shutters (except leaf bladed shutters) are usually quartz timed and are very accurate.
- at 1/500 - 1/1000, hold up to a bright light source and fire off shutter. You should perceive a sharp rectangle of light. If the rectangle has blurred edges, the shutter is capping at high speeds.


Hope this helps.

Samuel
 

just to list down somethings, in no particular order of importance

- clear viewfinder
- clear and alignment of framelines
- changing framelines
- smooth winder
- rough timing of shutter release
- lightleak (holes in curtain, cracks in the cover, stuck shutter, etc)
- smooth film plate

edited... oops, i wasn't fast enough. i think samuel (alternative) pretty much covered it all...
 

My advice is on the pricing.

I actually bought a scondhand lens at a price which was higher than a new one. Lesson learnt was to always check the price of new equipment before committing myself to a used one.

You'd be surprised at the good deals you may get on brand new equipment sometimes. Sometimes the diff is marginal, at times you may get something new even cheaper.

Also, always remember the age old saying - you get what you pay for...

Good luck!
 

My advice is on the pricing.

I actually bought a scondhand lens at a price which was higher than a new one. Lesson learnt was to always check the price of new equipment before committing myself to a used one.

You'd be surprised at the good deals you may get on brand new equipment sometimes. Sometimes the diff is marginal, at times you may get something new even cheaper.

Also, always remember the age old saying - you get what you pay for...

Good luck!

Very true as well. I almost bought another second hand lens when I realised that it was only $30 from first hand price!

Inconclusion, do your homework and you're much less likely to get burnt. And don't ask for the moon for $1 and with discount...

Samuel
 

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