For my prosumer camera, I managed to take at the following without flash (as my camera battery was running low and I only have built-in flash) :
F/4, 1/60 and ISO 400.
That's about the highest acceptable exposure I can go without motion blur. But then, sometimes still got motion blur if the model was moving too much just when I took the picture.
At 1/60, can only freeze the model when she poses; if she moves fast, the picture will have motion blur. So preferably 1/125 should be used (her feet may have motion blur if walking down the runway). Better if faster than 1/125.
My prosumer camera is too noisy at ISO 800 and also F/4 is about the largest aperture I can get at that focal length.
For your own camera, you can have similar exposure based on different settings. For e.g. if your camera is too noisy at ISO 400 and you want to shoot at ISO 200, then the setting is ISO 200, F/4 and 1/30 (which is way too slow to freeze movement). If you can use F/2.8 instead of F/4, then you can shoot at 1/125 @ISO 400. Do your own calculations.
In any case, the actual settings depends on the light condition prevailing. What you should do is to check the histograms of the first few pictures you take and then adjust your camera exposure settings accordingly. Using manual exposure is probably better since the lightings do not change and; if you use other exposure modes (such as aperture priority or shutter priority), you may not get the shutter speed or DOF or exposure you desire (as the camera's metering can give significantly different exposures, depending on your metering method and where you meter for each shot). You may want to use auto exposure mode (such as shutter or aperture priority) to take a couple of pictures first to gauge the exposure and then change to manual exposure mode with the appropriate settings to get a similar exposure.
Also be careful of white balance too. Avoid using auto WB as it can be quite inconsistent as some picture scan turn out to be very much more red than others when the lighting is closer to the colour of tungsten/incandescant.
Using flash would enable you to get the required exposure at a lower setting than the above. Also using flash can prevent the "sunken eye) appearance (due to main lightings happen to shine from above the model. For e.g. of sunken eyes, see the picture below).
To avoid handshake blur, use shutter speed faster than 1/actual focal length guideline. If your camera has image stabiliser, can shoot 1 to 2 stops slower shutter speed than the guideline. Actual shutter speed required to avoid handshake blur depends on your own hands. In any case, if you are not using long actual focal length, then handshake is usually not a major concern since you already need at least 1/125 or faster to avoid motion blur already. Handshake blur is even less likely if you have image stabiliser and is already shooting at 1/125 or faster.
Happy shooting.
F/3.9, 1/60, ISO 400, 41.1mm (161mm on 35mm format), handheld (1/60 is faster than 1/41.1).
