My Videos - Learng and Making Them

[daniyal]

frozentomtom>>> No worries Bro. Just sharing.

2. As for the "180deg for your shutter speed" rule, on a bright sunny day, if I shoot at 24fps, shutter speed at 1/50, the video would be overexposed. I'm thinking to get a ND filter, either Hoya ND4, ND8 or ND16, which would be more versatile? which you recommend?
Bro, I am using ND Fader with multiple stops. If I am not wrong, ND with numbers behind, they are fixed which you would not want. You got no room to play. I would recommend Hercules the one I am using currently. But once I got more experienced and money, I would buy the LCW and the HOYA HD versions. They cost a couple of hundreds. Especially if I were to shoot paintball, I need to invest on the good quality ND Fader. Reasons, a paintball videographer in US got his lens mini-smashed and scratches because he was using cheaper ND Fader, which could not take the paintball hits. I am not saying cheap is not good. Cheap is good and practical for practising and normal shoot as long as it gives the quality that you want.

3. Did you use ND filters for that video or other videos?
Usually I only use my ND Fader for outdoor and sunny day. For indoor, I have yet to try. I will soon in the next coming weeks. We shall see how it goes.

[frozentomtom]

frozentomtom>>> No worries Bro. Just sharing.

2. As for the "180deg for your shutter speed" rule, on a bright sunny day, if I shoot at 24fps, shutter speed at 1/50, the video would be overexposed. I'm thinking to get a ND filter, either Hoya ND4, ND8 or ND16, which would be more versatile? which you recommend?

1. Did you get your Hercules ND Fader from sgcamerastore.com? how much did you pay for it?

2. Are you using this Hercules ND filter 2-8 stops?
http://www.sgcamerastore.com/filters.../prod_980.html

3. And when it comes to metering, would it mess up the camera metering reading when set to 3-stops or 8-stops (almost total darkness). I usually refer to the exposure level meter for exposure reading, but in this case, can I still refer to the exposure level meter for correct exposure??

[daniyal]

frozentomtom>>> Yupz. I got it from sgcamerastore as shown in the link.

3. And when it comes to metering, would it mess up the camera metering reading when set to 3-stops or 8-stops (almost total darkness). I usually refer to the exposure level meter for exposure reading, but in this case, can I still refer to the exposure level meter for correct exposure??
Yes Bro. It will affect your metering if are using auto exposure mode. My experience is under-exposed clips is far more better than over-exposed. When shooting, try not to lose as much as details if possible.(Even I am still figuring it out every time I shoot) The brightness and contrast you can adjust in post. The plus point is, for example, I was using my 35mm Samyang lens with manual aperture control. I set my aperture to F1.4. Any further adjustments, all I need to do is to rotate the ND Fader. Same goes for my 50mm Canon lens F1.8. Compared to not using one, you will be meddling around your shutter speed, ISO and aperture settings all the time.

You can compare my paintball videos with my Koh Samui trip videos. The paintball videos I am not using while the Koh Samui, I put on my ND Fader at all times. In the paintball videos, all my whites are burned or I lost the details. Whereas my Koh Samui videos are a little bit under-exposed but at least, every details are in it. May not be a very good example but that's what I have to share.

My YouTube Channel

Keep them coming Bro for our own benefits and others.

[frozentomtom]

frozentomtom>>> Yupz. I got it from sgcamerastore as shown in the link.

Many thanks Bro for your prompt response. Yeah, do notice the video for paintball is over exposed.

1. What I meant was when you use ND filters for filming using manual exposure mode, how do you check whether the exposure is correctly under-exposed? Do you also refer to the exposure level meter?

For example for still photos, I usually under-exposed by -1/3 stop, but for movie mode, if I'm using ND filters and want to shoot using the following settings
- 24fps,
- shutter 1/50,
- f1.8,
- ISO160,
- under exposed by -1/3 stop,

do I adjust the Hercules ND filter while half press the shutter button till the exposure meter level shows -1/3 stop?

2. Would you recommend stacking a Hercules ND fader on top a UV filter? heard that both filters can get stuck together permanently.

3. For video editing, for cinematic look, if the video was filmed in 24fps, is there a difference whether the clip was edited in 24fps or 23.976fps?? because some software gives you these two options: 24fps (film) and 23.976fps (IVTC film). To me, the outcome should be the same but you may have a different opinion.

4. Love your video on the wedding, though I don't understand the dialogue, but from the way you captured the human emotions, can certainly feel their happiness and dreams too. At frame 1:40, nice use of slider, you used the Konova slider?

[eleveninth]

Many thanks Bro for your prompt response. Yeah, do notice the video for paintball is over exposed.

1. What I meant was when you use ND filters for filming using manual exposure mode, how do you check whether the exposure is correctly under-exposed? Do you also refer to the exposure level meter?

For example for still photos, I usually under-exposed by -1/3 stop, but for movie mode, if I'm using ND filters and want to shoot using the following settings
- 24fps,
- shutter 1/50,
- f1.8,
- ISO160,
- under exposed by -1/3 stop,

do I adjust the Hercules ND filter while half press the shutter button till the exposure meter level shows -1/3 stop?


2. For video editing, for cinematic look, if the video was filmed in 24fps, is there a difference whether the clip was edited in 24fps or 23.976fps??

what's your definition of cinematic look.

[frozentomtom]

what's your definition of cinematic look.

Smoother motion. You will see the difference when filmed at 30fps vs 24 fps.

[eleveninth]

Smoother motion. You will see the difference when filmed at 30fps vs 24 fps.

so if you film with a phantom or the f700 at 120 fps not cinematic?

[frozentomtom]

frozentomtom>>> No worries Bro. Just sharing.

2. As for the "180deg for your shutter speed" rule, on a bright sunny day, if I shoot at 24fps, shutter speed at 1/50, the video would be overexposed. I'm thinking to get a ND filter, either Hoya ND4, ND8 or ND16, which would be more versatile? which you recommend?
Bro, I am using ND Fader with multiple stops. If I am not wrong, ND with numbers behind, they are fixed which you would not want. You got no room to play. I would recommend Hercules the one I am using currently. But once I got more experienced and money, I would buy the LCW and the HOYA HD versions.

Light Craft Workshop Fader ND Mk II filter Filter Review

Here is a review on the LCW ND Fader. There are three things that I don't quite understand.

1. Why must use a 100mm lens inorder to enjoy the nine-stop?

"Its variable neutral density is very useful and does mean you have greater control over the final result. The downside is that to enjoy its potential nine-stop operating range means you have to be shooting with a telephoto lens – at least a 100mm with a cropped sensor DSLR."


2. And when shoot at 12mm, we are limited to three stops? why is that so?

"If you are a keen wide-angler and want to enjoy this filter with a 12-24mm zoom set to its widest setting, for example, your options are limited to a three stop operating range from ND4 (two stops) to ND8 (three stops). Zoom back to 24mm, however, and you have a six stop operating range and a ND64. That is getting there for long exposures, but still not the nine stops that is possible with the filter on a telephoto zoom. "


3. So far, the reviews at youtube didn't mention about the cross effects for LCW ND fader, what causes such effect? ND filter stacking on a UV filter?

[daniyal]

Many thanks Bro for your prompt response. Yeah, do notice the video for paintball is over exposed.

1. What I meant was when you use ND filters for filming using manual exposure mode, how do you check whether the exposure is correctly under-exposed? Do you also refer to the exposure level meter?

For example for still photos, I usually under-exposed by -1/3 stop, but for movie mode, if I'm using ND filters and want to shoot using the following settings
- 24fps,
- shutter 1/50,
- f1.8,
- ISO160,
- under exposed by -1/3 stop,

do I adjust the Hercules ND filter while half press the shutter button till the exposure meter level shows -1/3 stop?
Bro, I may be wrong. My exposure I leave it at 0. For now, I need as much light as I can. Keeping at 0, so far, I like the quality. At the same you have to take note, using ND Fader, will help you control your exposure, contrast, colours and vibrance. For me, I feel safe if my camera exposure I keep at 0 and I only have meddle with my ND Fader.

2. Would you recommend stacking a Hercules ND fader on top a UV filter? heard that both filters can get stuck together permanently.
My take on this one will be I am not going to stack them up. I do not need a filter on top another filter. Basically they did the same job which is to protect your lens except for ND Fader, it gives more than just protection. It gives control.

3. For video editing, for cinematic look, if the video was filmed in 24fps, is there a difference whether the clip was edited in 24fps or 23.976fps?? because some software gives you these two options: 24fps (film) and 23.976fps (IVTC film). To me, the outcome should be the same but you may have a different opinion.
Seriously, I never take note of this. My eyes it look the same. My friend did say that if you shoot at 24fps it gives you the smooth feel. Which I still dun see it. Sorry Bro. Right now, I seriously lacking in this techie department. As long as the clips are nice to watch, I am fine with that.

4. Love your video on the wedding, though I don't understand the dialogue, but from the way you captured the human emotions, can certainly feel their happiness and dreams too. At frame 1:40, nice use of slider, you used the Konova slider?
Yupz. I use Konova slider. 80cm. Guess at what FPS I am shooting at.

I have replied in the quote.

[daniyal]

Light Craft Workshop Fader ND Mk II filter Filter Review

Here is a review on the LCW ND Fader. There are three things that I don't quite understand.

1. Why must use a 100mm lens inorder to enjoy the nine-stop?

"Its variable neutral density is very useful and does mean you have greater control over the final result. The downside is that to enjoy its potential nine-stop operating range means you have to be shooting with a telephoto lens – at least a 100mm with a cropped sensor DSLR."


2. And when shoot at 12mm, we are limited to three stops? why is that so?

"If you are a keen wide-angler and want to enjoy this filter with a 12-24mm zoom set to its widest setting, for example, your options are limited to a three stop operating range from ND4 (two stops) to ND8 (three stops). Zoom back to 24mm, however, and you have a six stop operating range and a ND64. That is getting there for long exposures, but still not the nine stops that is possible with the filter on a telephoto zoom. "


3. So far, the reviews at youtube didn't mention about the cross effects for LCW ND fader, what causes such effect? ND filter stacking on a UV filter?

Bro, seriously I cannot help you in this department. I don't really understand. But once I got hold a wide angle lens with a ND Fader, I will get back to you when I do a shoot. Sorry Bro. I also dun really understand.

For your point 3 >>> Yes. Me and PettyPoh faced the same problem towards the max stop.

Bro, just to add to Bro eleveninth opinions on 24p/cinematic look. When you shoot at 24p, you shutter speed has to be at least 1/50 and you cannot go over 1/60, if not your clips will start to flickers. I love slowmo shots. If I were to slowmo a 1/50 shutter speed clip, it will gives me tonnes of motion blur and slowmo clips will not be smooth. Pardon for my ignorance. As of now, for me, I find it over-rated when I met couple of people saying that I should be shooting at 24p. Until I,myself, yet to see the smoothness in 24p like they mentioned, I am going to shoot at 30p, 50p and 60p. It gives me a lot more of flexibility especially to a newbie like me. Based on my videos responses, it seems they do not bother about the 24p. Unless, it is a trained and experienced eyes. That would be different story lah.

Bro frozentomtom, Keep them coming. I love this.

[daniyal]

01 JUNE 2012

Thought of sharing this link about Audio Recording. Very interesting and simple to understand.

Production Dialogue - Microphone Placement

[frozentomtom]

01 JUNE 2012

Thought of sharing this link about Audio Recording. Very interesting and simple to understand.

Production Dialogue - Microphone Placement

Thanks bro daniyal, for sharing at such late hour.

[daniyal]

frozentomtom>>> Can't sleep. Been reading materials at the internet.

DEFINE CINEMATIC LOOK - Part 1

DEFINE CINEMATIC LOOK - Part 2

[frozentomtom]

Good reading material.

frozentomtom>>> Can't sleep. Been reading materials at the internet.

DEFINE CINEMATIC LOOK - Part 1

DEFINE CINEMATIC LOOK - Part 2

[frozentomtom]

LATEST 30th APRIL 2012



Shot :
- 1/125 and F1.4~F5.6 with ISO 160 ~ ISO 2500
- Samyang 35mm lens
- Canon 50mm lens
- Canon 18-135mm lens
- Fotocrane Lite
- Konova Slider
- Rode Video Mic mono

Hope you guys enjoy the video.

Bro Daniyal,

Regarding ISO, your setting start from ISO160, Conrad also mentioned for video recording, use ISO 160, 320 etc... However, ISO 100 gives less noise, why film at ISO160???

http://www.gracepointafterfive.com/w...o-Training.pdf


--------------
Extracted from Conrad's hangout.

- Stills should always use Whole ISOs
100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200

- Video = 160, 320, 640, 1250 (highlight clipping, but low shadow
noise)

- Bad = 125, 250, 500, 1000 (lots of shadow noise)
---------------

[daniyal]

frozentomtom>>> For video it is best to use multiples of 160 ISO unless you are taking stills, then you have to use multiples of 100 iso. So far, it works for me and I like the results. I have shot in multiples of 125 iso before. For me, there are no hard or fast rules. As long as you achieve your results, it works.

ISO is a camera setting that changes how sensitive the camera's sensor is to light. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive the sensor will be, which allows you to shoot better images in low light conditions. It's a good idea to keep your ISO as low as possible for the best looking image. Sometimes, you’ll need to bump it up a bit if there isn’t a lot of light.

In other words, 125 is bottom. 100 is the top. 160 is best of both worlds.

For my "24 June 2012" video, the last scene (quarreling scene) , I shot in ISO2500. It gives me the balance of light and noise. If I shot at any other settings, it will be too dark or too bright. Sometimes, depending on the condition, you may not be able to see the shadow noise until you magnify them x10.

Take a look at this link and see for yourself. Which one would you prefer to shoot with ?

Testing Canon 60D ISO Settings

Hope it helps.

Conrad's material is very goood. Because of him, I understand better with regards to relationships between ISO, Aperture and Shutter speed.

[frozentomtom]

Many thanks again, let me study the materials again.

frozentomtom>>> For video it is best to use multiples of 160 ISO unless you are taking stills, then you have to use multiples of 100 iso. So far, it works for me and I like the results. I have shot in multiples of 125 iso before. For me, there are no hard or fast rules. As long as you achieve your results, it works.

ISO is a camera setting that changes how sensitive the camera's sensor is to light. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive the sensor will be, which allows you to shoot better images in low light conditions. It's a good idea to keep your ISO as low as possible for the best looking image. Sometimes, you’ll need to bump it up a bit if there isn’t a lot of light.

In other words, 125 is bottom. 100 is the top. 160 is best of both worlds.

For my "24 June 2012" video, the last scene (quarreling scene) , I shot in ISO2500. It gives me the balance of light and noise. If I shot at any other settings, it will be too dark or too bright. Sometimes, depending on the condition, you may not be able to see the shadow noise until you magnify them x10.

Take a look at this link and see for yourself. Which one would you prefer to shoot with ?

Testing Canon 60D ISO Settings

Hope it helps.

Conrad's material is very goood. Because of him, I understand better with regards to relationships between ISO, Aperture and Shutter speed.

[daniyal]

frozentomtom>>> Bro, my knowledge is very very basic. I may not be able to explain better. I believe seniors here would help you out. Sorry if I can't be much of help.

[frozentomtom]

frozentomtom>>> Bro, my knowledge is very very basic. I may not be able to explain better. I believe seniors here would help you out. Sorry if I can't be much of help.

Yeah, both Andrew and Conrad mentioned about the ISO in multiple 160, not sure the logic behind it, but just accept their findings.

Here is another question. Canon recommend a Class 6 SD card for Full HD recording, which according to this chart the speed is 6MB/s

Secure Digital - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


Class Read/Write Speed
- Class 2, 2 MB/s
- Class 4, 4 MB/s
- Class 6, 6 MB/s
- Class 10, 10 MB/s

But according to Sandisk website, their Class 4 SD card can write up to 15 MB/s, does that mean the video recording will not hang if using Sandisk Class 4? BTW, which SD card are you using now for video recording?

SanDisk® Ultra® SDHC™ Card - 4GB to 32GB SDHC™ Cards

[daniyal]

frozentomtom>>> I have just came back from a solemnization video shoot.

Shooting in 24p
- It does give you the smooth and soft look compared to 30p, 50p and 60p.
- Setback that I faced juz now was flickering. I cannot pan too fast or less, I will get the flickering. And other thing, from good lighting condition to low lighting condition, the flickering will be very obvious.
- My take on 24p, you got to be very patient with your shoot.

SD Card
- I am using SD Class 10. That's it.
- For video, it has to be Class 6 and above. I believe some of my photographers friends are using at least Class 6 for their stills. All I know, we cannot afford to take risk when shooting clients' reception. Playing on the safe side.
- I have really no idea about the Class 4. Got to try it out Bro.