I have had both 60D and D7000 and tested them side by side with the same Sigma 17-50 F2.8 lens (yes, I got the same lens for both mount as well) for a period of time. Here's what I can share:
60D vs D7000
Colours - Cooler (more natural esp skin tones) vs too warm for my liking (a bit fake for skin tones)
Metering - More accurate vs always overexpose by 2/3 to 1 stop
ISO - Can be quite noisy at ISO3200 vs still quite clean at ISO3200 (However, no difference from ISO100-1600)
Continuous burst - Almost similar 5.3fps vs 6fps
Buffer size - Almost unlimited vs Probably can only shoot up to 2-3s and it goes to 1fps
Focus speed and accuracy - Same for both (but when using kit lenses like 18-135 and 18-105, Canon lens focuses faster and more accurate)
Body built quality - Similar I would say, can't really tell 60D is made of plastic as it is really well built
LCD screen - Canon tilting screen is more useful and has higher resolution, looks better too
Shutter lag - Nikon is better, almost can't feel any shutter lag
Video - Canon is better, period.
Price - $1300 vs $1600
All in all, I would say I will go for 60D if I am given choice again to buy only one of them. (esp so if you intend to keep the system in longer run since you can always extend the warranty to 3yrs with Canon SGP)
In lens department, I somehow feel that Canon lenses are more affordable and value for money. Even their lower end lenses with AF Motor focus very fast. Nikon lenses AF motor in comparison feels slow and only those lenses more than 1k have better AF motor.
But I would also suggest to go try out A77 before deciding since 60D and D7000 are in market for more than 1 year and stocks are always available. However for Canon and Nikon, their new mid range bodies 7D2 and D400 might be coming soon...
Last edited by Ouverture; 13th October 2011 at 02:50 PM.
JPEG: 5.3 fps for 44 frames, then around 1 fps. 18 seconds to recover.
RAW: 5.3 fps for 16 frames, then around 0.66 fps. 21 seconds to recover.
RAW+JPEG 5.3 fps for 13 frames, then around 0.5 fps. 22 seconds to recover.
JPEG (Fine): 6 fps for 22 frames, then 2 frames at 3fps captured every second (approx) up to 100 frames in total. Approx 10 seconds to recover.
JPEG (Normal): 6fps for 32 frames, then 4 frames at 4fps (approx) followed by 2-3 frames at 5fps (approx) up to 100 frames. Approx 10 seconds to recover.
RAW: 6 fps for 10 frames, then 2 frames at 2fps captured every 2-3 seconds. 16 seconds to recover.
RAW+ JPEG (Fine): 6 fps for 10 frames, then around 0.5 fps. Approx 22 seconds to recover.
how often u'll burst???
Not often and its not the only criteria i mentioned above if you hv read it.Originally Posted by tuwinkk
When buying a body is so jialat.... as i cant decide which body to go to and which camp i should go. Formerly i am from sony ( using a290L). Dont really like it as i prefer half frame body and i dislike the slow auto focus of the body. Any suggestion on which camp and body i should go for?? The camera shop people suggested me 60D. And i m planning to get a 24-70mm f2.8 lens after the body.
Sony slow auto focus??? Are u sure??Originally Posted by Telsoon
The trick is manual focus....Originally Posted by Telsoon
In this case, it's not the brand's fault.... What lens were u using for macro?Originally Posted by Telsoon
Like what fellow below said, the trick is manual focus.
Other brands also the same thing. It won't be any better.
In fact, Sony is the fastest AF u can find..... Other brands can be worse, depending on what lens and the model.
The point is u must know your equipment before coming to any conclusion.Originally Posted by Telsoon
What if u can't focus with manual focus, then what makes u think u can get it right with canon or nikon?
Yr Tamron lens may have focusing problem.....
I think TS needs to understand the concept of depth of field and focusing distance before going on further. Manual focus is abt tuning a certain distance from ur view, with a certain amount of depth, into focus, while all others out of the depth, will be out of focus.
I think you're putting the blame on the wrong tool. If you get a Canon, Nikon, Pentax, etc, all will have the same problem: It's behind the camera.
You'll just waste a lot of money changing systems.
FYI, Sony DSLRs are usually rated top for AF speed and even accuracy. But for Macro, manual focus is the best. It will take practice to get it right.
It seems like i have a lot of things to learn, i thought i have learned quick a lot. But i didnt know that im so far away from everything. I think a make a mistake by selling my sony DSLR item. Should i use back my A290L and my emoblitz flash light to continue taking picture with it or i should switch camp??