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Thread: shutter speed = 1/focal length?

  1. #21
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    1/(multiplier * focal length) is the correct one. The compact camera example by Bean is a perfect example. Although it's a crop, like the rest mentioned, this image is magnified more to produce a print of a given size, as compared to a full frame sensor. This ultimately magnifies any shake, etc as well.

    Regards
    CK

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by toasty
    Although the absolute vibrations do not increase the picture area decreases, so the relative vibration increases (vibration relative to the elements in the picture). A 1mm vibration on a 35mm frame is 2.8% of the frame. a 1mm vibration on a 22mm frame is 4.5% of frame. Relative to the size of everything in the picture, a 1mm vibration is more severe as you shrink the area of view. Look at it another way: if you have take a picture and blow it up 100x and crop out a part of that, any handshake will become amplified. If you shrink it down to the size of a passport photo, the vibrations become insignificant, relative to the picture. That is why I think that even though the focal length of the lens itself remains unchanged, the 1.6x focal multiplier (or focal cropping) affects the shutter speed you should use.
    I see what you're getting at.... you're saying a 1.6x crop factor ultimately enlarges any blurs when compared to full frame. So to compensate for this fact you gotta increase the shutter speeds as well. OK, that is a valid argument I guess... but maybe the compensation would be most likely non linear and only noticeable when comparing at 100% right?

  3. #23

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    i'm with ckiang on this. it is 1/focal length*FLM. please look at the examples of pics i have posted here

  4. #24
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    simple rule of thumb = 1 / (equivalent focal length in 35mm terms). That means 1 / (focal length x 1.6). The same for prosumer camera which use a very small CCD, therefore very small focal length lens. Use the 35mm equivalent in general rule of thumb.

  5. #25
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    No need to go thru' so much arguments. All these are just rule of thumb or gross guide. Each individual technique and ability to hold steady varies somewhat. so, just go out and shoot some pic at each focal length and find out for yourself. Even different lens might be different, like a lighter and shorter 28-200 against a heavier 80-200 F2.8. So, just have to go out there and experiment, especially with dSLR. After that, you know for sure what kind of result you get with each lens you have.

    For me, under real life shooting, I always up 1 stop of shutter speed as compared to shooting practice, just to be sure not to bring home some blurred shots. Like kiasu syndrome.

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by smallaperture
    No need to go thru' so much arguments. All these are just rule of thumb or gross guide. Each individual technique and ability to hold steady varies somewhat. so, just go out and shoot some pic at each focal length and find out for yourself. Even different lens might be different, like a lighter and shorter 28-200 against a heavier 80-200 F2.8. So, just have to go out there and experiment, especially with dSLR. After that, you know for sure what kind of result you get with each lens you have.
    .


    Quote Originally Posted by smallaperture
    For me, under real life shooting, I always up 1 stop of shutter speed as compared to shooting practice, just to be sure not to bring home some blurred shots. Like kiasu syndrome.
    just practise you know what much you need, also blur effect is great if you know how to execute!

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