aperture is the one you should look out for as this is the major factor which affects your flash + overall exposure, on top of ISO.
flash photography is a whole new ball game. you need to grasp your basics well first before you proceed further.
Do bear in mind that you loose high speed sync with the Nissin, which is important when using it as fill flash in outdoor daylight. If that doesn't concern you then you're fine.
Also, like what tecnica said, the flash duration is very short, so when the flash is the main light source (in the dark), the aperture is actually the limiting factor, and the smaller the aperture you use, the harder the flash must fire, and the shorter distance it can reach. And due to this very short flash duration, it will be able to freeze any motion you have. Flash sync speed is typically from 1/60 - 1/250" depending on your camera. Fill flash, on the other hand, is a different story. With fill flash, the sun (or other strong light source) now becomes the main light source, and your flash become secondary. Now consider you're outdoor with bright sun, so your subject is darker and you need to use your flash to "fill in". In order to expose the background properly, you're limited by a set of exposure, say f/2.8 1/1000". Remember most flash sync speed is limited to 1/60 - 1/250" as mentioned. Now in order to sync with the flash, you now need to drop the shutter speed from 1/1000" to 1/250", a total of 2 stops. So to maintain the exposure, you need to raise the aperture 2 stops to f/5.6, and in doing so sacrificing the shallow DOF that you might want to acheive. This is the main reason why high speed sync is important for outdoor daylight fill flash. Of course, if you don't mind/do portraitures then this won't be a concern.
Or you can use a ND filter if u wish to keep your depth of field without high speed sync.
Tried searching but cannot find the difference between master and slave. If I want to connect the flash to my hotshoe to use it as a replacement for my internal flash, can I use a slave flash?
Another flash to consider is the Canon 320EX. It's more expensive and less powerful but it's very compact and user friendly. It has a video light too. Ideal for beginners who are willing to spendOriginally Posted by maisatomai
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Yes in fact I would recommend TS to get the original Canon flash (e.g. 320EX as suggested) as even though it is more expensive, it will keep things simple and save all the headache for him.
Last edited by ziploc; 6th September 2011 at 01:57 PM.
- will it work for future Camera bodies?
3rd party MAY run into issues that it will not work on newer camera bodies (I've not come across it yet, but heard it mentioned in many 3rd party flash reviews)
- ettl, is it accurate?
Canon's speedlites can detect the sensor size (crop or FF) and "zoom" accordingly. Only until recently I heard that Yongnuo have a model that can detect this sensor size thingy also. Nissin 622 (both mk i and ii) don't.
- high speed sync
refer to ziploc's post earlier. Many 3rd party flash does not have HSS. To some, this is a deal breaker.
But with the original Canon flash, you don't have to think too much, other than the budget factor as Canon ones normally cost more than 3rd party ones. btw, this is the review for the 622 MKi (http://reviews.davidleetong.com/revi...ght-for-canon/)
If you ask me whether I'll buy a 3rd party flash myself, my answer is yes and no. If it is my first external flash, I would want full iTTL (for Nikon) compatibility plus the full features so I'll go straight and get a Nikon Speedlight. If it is my second or subsequent one (for strobist purposes), I will save myself some money and get the 3rd party ones since I'm going to use them as manual flash anyway.
Last edited by ziploc; 6th September 2011 at 03:12 PM.
After reading your replies, I just realised the Nissin 622 M1 cannot be used on my T3i. Now I going to get 320EX after this experience
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