My few cents
The stray lights from some of the strobes is probably shining at the lens causing the loss of contrast.
Usually its the strobes that are flashing in the direction of the camera/lens.
Reposition camera or flash or use a flag.
Hi TS, Highkey lighting by definition will produce a bright and low contrast picture consisting of mostly white or middle tones.Of course
not all low contrast scenes are bright it may be dark too.I think placement of subject with relation to your lights affect the outcome,for instance the top photo has a less then white tone at the right side because either the lighting angle is short and does not light up background fully or not set for higher power to reach there.The second photo is much better.Standard setup is two lights at 45 degrees on either side of subject to give even lighting resulting in almost no shadow.Frankly I don't see anything wrong with your output of course you can PP in photoshop to your liking.
Last edited by one eye jack; 22nd July 2011 at 10:22 AM.
Thanks all! Was thinking it was the problem with my camera because a few of us was shooting
and only i had the problem. the other people tried to help me for a while but could not solve the
problem also .....so i was thinking I might have unwittingly changed some settings in my camera or
The light from the flash is going into the lens. You need to restrict where the flash light goes. Put a piece of black cardboard (go tape/paint it) or something at the side of your flash that is nearest to the camera
I seldom shoot studio and may not be in the position to comment but here is my explanation;
- That lost of contrast is a mild form of lens flare.
- This is happening because there is a hot-spot/un-even/overly strong background light, contrast between the foreground and background is too big.
- Your lens or filter may be the culpirt. Some lenses are more prone to backlight flare than others. And a lousy filter as well.
- School of thought problem; some people like a heavily blown-out background (explains edge glow along the subject) for high-key shots but in my opinion just do a +2 to +3 stops vs subject so you don't challenge your lens/sensor. Do rmb you can always blow it out in post, though the look is different. If you don't have light meter just take a shot of the white background and check the histogram; all highlights to the verge of over-exposing or just blown (if you shoot raw you can let it over-expose slightly).
If the model accidentally kicked your tripod, your hood saves the day
dun think any model are that dumb (if u ever shoot in a studio before you will know why i say dumb. The length btw the model and you are usually so apart). and btw, rarely ppl will use a tripod in a studio anyway, i dun see a need to and it also limits your angle of composition too.
Last edited by sinned79; 25th July 2011 at 07:39 AM.
Thanks brapodam and daredevil123.
Not sure how to post image with EXIF, so I list them down
Aperture: F11 to F14
Exposure Bias: 0 step, +0.7 to +1 step
shutter : 1/100 t0 1/200 sec
white balance: auto
Exposure program: manual
Contrast, saturartion, sharpness : normal
Also, would using a lens hood prevent the flash from getting into the flash? (actually,can't remember if i used one ...)
Thanks in advance!
I think it will be helpful to watch that video I posted and take note of the important points. Especially the part about balancing the light that falls on the model and the light flashing on the background.