HP5 Flim

[Sneakaleak]

I used rodinal developer to develop my HP5 flims , printed my photos and found them very grainy. Is it because of the developer i used? Which developer should i use to prevent that grainy look?

[canturn]

What ISO did you rate your HP5? Did you develop your film at 20 degree-c? Rodinal doesn't really like pushed film, somehow.

One of the characteristic of Rodinal is the sharp and distinct grain, which I personally love it (matter of taste). This makes it my favourite developer for 120/220 film.

As for fine grain developers, you might want to consider Ilford's Microphen for pushed film or ID-11 for EI320/400.

[Sneakaleak]

its at ISO 400. Didnt really measure the temp. think that i might switch to tmax. I'm kinda new , whats a pushed flim?

[The_Cheat]

Originally Posted by Sneakaleak its at ISO 400. Didnt really measure the temp. think that i might switch to tmax. I'm kinda new , whats a pushed flim?

"Pushing" meant that you purposely rated your film at a higher speed, like rating the ISO setting at 800 using HP5 (ISO400). "Pulling" is the reverse, where ISO setting are set slower than that of the film, like setting ISO 50 while using Tmax100.

[grado]

Switching to tmax would also result in grainy looking pics if it is a ISO 400 film and using Rodinal. You will need to switch developers for such high speed film to prevent the grainy look. I tried Ilfosol and its ok. But I also like Rodinal for the gritty grainy look, its a matter of taste.

Originally Posted by Sneakaleak its at ISO 400. Didnt really measure the temp. think that i might switch to tmax. I'm kinda new , whats a pushed flim?

[Sneakaleak]

oh...now i get it...thanks man!

[student]

Originally Posted by Sneakaleak its at ISO 400. Didnt really measure the temp. think that i might switch to tmax. I'm kinda new , whats a pushed flim?

To get the best from your black & white negatives, you will have to invest a little time and some "obsession" with techniques. There is also the question of what you reaaly like. Some like grains, some don't. Some photos may look better with grain, others don't.

But you will have to learn to process the negatives properly. Effects of most developers are dependent on the interaction between developer and negative, concentration of developer, temperature, duration of developing, and the way you agitate the developing process. Slip shod methods methods are a No-No! There are exceptions such as diafine. I personally do not use diafine. Perhaps some may help you there on diafine.

AS regards HP5, it is more grainy of course, particularly with rodinal. I personally do not care for HP5 in Rodinal. I shoot HP5 at ASA 160 and develop it in perceptol to give very pleasing grain, (or the lack of it!). Tmax is quite grainy and may make printing difficult. Tmax 100 is very fine but is very finicky with developing techniques. If your skills are not consistent, I suggest you use some more forgiving films live FP4.

[canturn]

Originally Posted by student To get the best from your black & white negatives, you will have to invest a little time and some "obsession" with techniques. There is also the question of what you reaaly like. Some like grains, some don't. Some photos may look better with grain, others don't. But you will have to learn to process the negatives properly. Effects of most developers are dependent on the interaction between developer and negative, concentration of developer, temperature, duration of developing, and the way you agitate the developing process. Slip shod methods methods are a No-No! There are exceptions such as diafine. I personally do not use diafine. Perhaps some may help you there on diafine. AS regards HP5, it is more grainy of course, particularly with rodinal. I personally do not care for HP5 in Rodinal. I shoot HP5 at ASA 160 and develop it in perceptol to give very pleasing grain, (or the lack of it!). Tmax is quite grainy and may make printing difficult. Tmax 100 is very fine but is very finicky with developing techniques. If your skills are not consistent, I suggest you use some more forgiving films live FP4.

Diafine needs some technique too actually, especially agitation. A full inversion and back will yield super contrasty results, and makes them difficult to scan. I normally have to do a slight swirvel of the tank and that would give me enough midtone and shadow. Printing wise, you'll need to print around Grade 1 to 1.5, sometimes 2. However, I love it for pushed tri-x at 1250 - 1600 because it gives very fine grain w/o the pushed look.

HP5 rated at 160 and pull process does give you almost grainless results. Another film you might wanna consider is Neopan 400...rate at 250 you get very nice continous tone. However, if you want almost grainless results, try ilford xp 2 super or the new Kodak BW400CN. Those are C-41 process and you can rate it from iso 25 - 800 and gives you grainless results when printed!

[Keltzar]

not sure whether you should stock up...
I read in the english newspapers that Ilford has gone bankrupt this week.

[Sneakaleak]

yea...heard from my lecturers at school...that ilford is going down....1st thing that comes to my mind is that...where to get paper?! dont wanna use AGFA man...

[raine]

Originally Posted by Keltzar not sure whether you should stock up... I read in the english newspapers that Ilford has gone bankrupt this week.

huh? Ilford is dying?! OH NO!!!!!!! How come like that?!

Anyway, i get the same grainy results when i use ilford fp4 plus and hp5 too. Figured its the developer or maybe just ilford film?! I just use the the ilford, id4 or ifoltec i think. So does that mean that if i go for a fine grain developer, these two films may not turn out as grainy as they normally seem? But what's a good developer if i want to push a film up by 2 stops?

just one more question, is agfa film good then? i've been trying to find a not so grainy film. Read above that neopan is ok?

[glchua]

Ilford not bankrupt yet, just in "administration":

www.photo.net

A case of market economy driving away non-conforming consumers.

[canturn]

Originally Posted by raine just one more question, is agfa film good then? i've been trying to find a not so grainy film. Read above that neopan is ok?

I've been using Neopan 1600 for some of my works, including weddings (even outdoor wedding). The film is quite grainy at EI1600, but when you rate it at 1250, it gives rather fine grains and smooth tonality. Contrast is a little low, but can be corrected during printing.

Neopan 400 is quite some film too. Rate it at 250 and pull process, you get very fine grain, good tonality and just the right contrast for wedding/bridal actually.

Then again, all these are quite subjective.

[Voigtlander]

Originally Posted by canturn I've been using Neopan 1600 for some of my works, including weddings (even outdoor wedding). The film is quite grainy at EI1600, but when you rate it at 1250, it gives rather fine grains and smooth tonality. Contrast is a little low, but can be corrected during printing. Neopan 400 is quite some film too. Rate it at 250 and pull process, you get very fine grain, good tonality and just the right contrast for wedding/bridal actually. Then again, all these are quite subjective.

Hi there,

May I know where could I get Neopan 1600 in Singapore?

Regards,
Voigtlander

[canturn]

Originally Posted by Voigtlander Hi there, May I know where could I get Neopan 1600 in Singapore? Regards, Voigtlander

U can buy from me @ $5.50 per roll or $6.50 from Konota.