http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showt...=749566&page=2. Perhaps your test might not have been conclusive enough or it could be difficult to replicate the environment where such problems can occur.
Here is the extract from that thread
Last edited by Override2Zion; 5th January 2011 at 04:02 PM.
If it only affects the exposure, does it mean that the eyepiece cover isn't necessary if exposure is set manually?
Heres another post with some photo evidence, not for Nikon or Canon but this problem should be regardless of model and brand
Here are the results from that test that "BigG" (from pentax forum) performed, credits to him
30 seconds, f/4, B+W ten stop.
30 seconds, f/4 B + W ten stop - this time shining a torch into the viewfinder for a few seconds.
Last edited by Override2Zion; 5th January 2011 at 04:18 PM.
a ND4 & 8 is sufficient enough for general usage... this thread reminds me that i've a set of super underutilized tianya filter lying around... need to use them more... hahah...
Playing with M43.
Still pending my own final decision... B+W is famous for its quality, while the Tianya set is really cheap... Plus it is a set of filters, rather than a single copy...
Go for b +w
Did tests again, my findings.
30s, ISO800, using a 3W Lumiled torch (pretty bright, the spot), shining continuously into the VF and varying all the angles up down left right, none of that banding. Pitch dark image.
30s, ISO800, using my 35W metal halide (this bugger can illuminate something that is as far as 3km away with the big 8" reflector), can get the thing illuminated. Same thing, up down left right. Even though its metal halide which is pretty efficient and little IR, I still risk burning my eyepiece. Its HOT!
Camera, stupid little old D200. This little guy surived falls in which the Nikkor 17-55 also buang till cannot repair, SB-600 hotshoe also buang till cannot repair. Since purchased in Dec 2005 prob it went through about 400 weddings. Still going strong, way past shutter count expiry.
Last edited by 2100; 5th January 2011 at 11:33 PM.
I have had a ND4 Hoya filter. However was introduced to the variable ND filters about 6 months ago and have been using them. So far so good.
I used the first versions from fader filters. Paid about $140 for the 77mm ones.
I think there are 3 companies making them now.
Cheapest - most expensive
1) Fader filters
I have their version I
They have now release markII versions which seem a little bit more expensive.
2) Lightcraft Workshop
Impression is that the ones from fader filters are the same as these.
Sounds like the best and original quality optics and of course most expensive.
2 to 10 stops variability in 1 single filter.
I sometimes have this on top of the Hoya ND4.
Allows me to take flowing water in bright sunlight.
(photos in my flickr stream)
I have used this on a variety of lenses from the toki 11-16, nikon 50, 24, 35-70
the front section is bigger than the mount size. So eg if you buy 77mm to fit most of your lenses then be prepared to find a 82mm filter cap. Actually I still dont know what size the front filter cap is.. going to a shop to find it tomorrow.
Also there can be vignetting on your wide angle lens.
In my case with the Tokina 11-16mm on my D90, I have to use the lens at 13mm
Hope this helps.
On aperture-priority mode, IT WILL AFFECT YOUR EXPOSURE.i don't think the VF will affect the exposure, but i read elsewhere that light entering the VF will affect the metering.
Encountered this problem on both my 5D Mk1 and Mk2.
Last edited by PrimePhotog; 6th January 2011 at 09:36 PM.
I personally have 2 B+W NDs. A 3-stop, for when the light is getting rather dim so I don't have exposures that go into the tens of minutes, and a 10-stop, for when I'm shooting in broad daylight.Gonna pick up an ND filter to try it out myself soon. The only thing is that, which one should I pick? How many stops would be the most useful? As I have read, there are ND filters that are capable of reducing light from 2 to 9/10 stops. Not sure which one to pick... (They are not cheap...) Thanks guys.
This one was done with a 3-stop (Because I still wanted to retain some detail in the water flow instead of having "one big mess of white".
This one was done with a 10-stop (when I wanted a perfectly smooth sea.)
Hope this helped