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Thread: Newbie learning 35mm f1.8

  1. #21

    Default Re: Newbie learning 35mm f1.8

    Yeah right. Shouldn't let the focal length to limit your imagination. A tele lens also can shoot landscape, depend where you stand from the subject. Below was taken with a 58mm prime lens and full frame body but some thought it was taken with a wide angle lens:



    Quote Originally Posted by tehzeh View Post
    You do not always have to use a wide angle lens to take whatever-scapes. I used my 50mm (75mm on my camera) to shoot some cityscapes and it turned out pretty good... and some people use telephoto lenses to shoot landscapes...
    Kent Wong Photography |Leica Q & Leica M-P 240 | 75 & 28mm Summilux

  2. #22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kentwong81
    the f1.8 or f1.4 prime lenses are more versatile than just shoot at wide open. You can stop down the f number to manipulate the DOF you desire. But for a zoom, you don't get that kind of flexibility in DOF. The largest aperture you can get from a zoom is only f2.8 but yet a prime lens at f2.8 is sharper than any zoom lens at f2.8. What a zoom can give you is the flexibility in focal lengths.

    To shoot group photos, you have to stop down to f5.6-f8.0 to get enough DOF, no matter what lenses you use.
    I second that.
    Primes exists for a reason.
    In most cases my 35mm is sharper than zoom kits compared at the same aperture settings.
    f1.8 not only gives you the option to shoot special scenes that requires super shallow DOF. Step up to f2.8 and IQ will be fantastic with full screen in sharp focus.
    Example for a zoom lens you start off with f3.5 and you might need to hit f5.6 for the sweet spot. Well now you're limited to only f5.6 when what u need could be f2.8. That's where primes comes in.

    Prime - sharpness
    Zoom - flexibility
    Prime+Zoom - rich folks' toys =P

  3. #23

    Default Re: Newbie learning 35mm f1.8

    Quote Originally Posted by kentwong81 View Post
    To shoot group photos, you have to stop down to f5.6-f8.0 to get enough DOF, no matter what lenses you use.
    Actually if you really want and have the skills to pull it off, can try f1.4-f2 lah. For your 35mm can try f2. It would not be too blur, more than enough to print 4R (1800x1200 if you are thinking along the lines of 300dpi or you can do 5-6R if you thinking slightly lower to account for the printer + technician + lab hardware capabilities....say slightly over 200dpi) and suitable for a 24" 1920x1200 monitor.

    I don't know, but at least for the photos that I take it looks good, not sure if my clients keep coming back coz of this. This is very tough to get right for ballroom shoots or you might compensate a wee bit (f2-f2.8) coupled with a lower shutter, you may have to colour balance the flash. A heck lot of people keep asking me why I put an orange gel. But of course not every shot like this lah.... its stressful to put it off shot after shot, wedding after wedding.

    And one thing I can say to the guys here is, more than 70% of the shots of even the multi-K $$ wedding pros "got feel" shots, are not tack sharp @ 100% and most prob 66.7% zoomed in (with the MP we are talking about nowadays), by the CS forumer's standards here.

    I better stop now, its bordering on "commercial" already.

  4. #24

    Default Re: Newbie learning 35mm f1.8

    I think f5.6 to f8.0 are the safest especially when shooting a group of people in 2-5 lines. f2.0 would be enough if the people are standing in one short line. I just want to make sure all the people are in focus and sharp(just my personal minimum expectation), although I'm not a commercial photographer. Looking at the characteristics of the prime lens, shoot at wide open the people standing in the centre are sharp but the people at the border are not so sharp. But when stop down to f5.6, the people at the centre and border are almost equally sharp and sharper than shooting at wide open. Couple with the high ISO capabilities of D700, f5.6 is my fav aperture for taking group photos with people in different line in the ballroom.

    Quote Originally Posted by 2100 View Post
    Actually if you really want and have the skills to pull it off, can try f1.4-f2 lah. For your 35mm can try f2. It would not be too blur, more than enough to print 4R (1800x1200 if you are thinking along the lines of 300dpi or you can do 5-6R if you thinking slightly lower to account for the printer + technician + lab hardware capabilities....say slightly over 200dpi) and suitable for a 24" 1920x1200 monitor.

    I don't know, but at least for the photos that I take it looks good, not sure if my clients keep coming back coz of this. This is very tough to get right for ballroom shoots or you might compensate a wee bit (f2-f2.8) coupled with a lower shutter, you may have to colour balance the flash. A heck lot of people keep asking me why I put an orange gel. But of course not every shot like this lah.... its stressful to put it off shot after shot, wedding after wedding.

    And one thing I can say to the guys here is, more than 70% of the shots of even the multi-K $$ wedding pros "got feel" shots, are not tack sharp @ 100% and most prob 66.7% zoomed in (with the MP we are talking about nowadays), by the CS forumer's standards here.

    I better stop now, its bordering on "commercial" already.
    Kent Wong Photography |Leica Q & Leica M-P 240 | 75 & 28mm Summilux

  5. #25

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    I noticed my 35mm's focusing speed for the longest distance(ie close focus > infinity) is not very fast. Probably it took 1-2s. Can't remember if I have this tested out last time, but I seems to find it slow. Is this normal or is it just my expectations getting higher? How is yours performing?

  6. #26

    Default Re: Newbie learning 35mm f1.8

    I use my 35mm F1.8 for all my portraits ever since I've gotten my hands on it! =)

    http://fotologue.jp/fusionphotography

  7. #27
    Member chillicutter's Avatar
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    Default Re: Newbie learning 35mm f1.8

    Wow!! I found it this thread is very educating and comprehensive!

    I am getting a 35mm lens as well and I am benefiting from all the expertism posted!

  8. #28

    Default Re: Newbie learning 35mm f1.8

    i think maybe TS can rethink about landscape photography. you dont necessarily require 18mm for landscape, it depends on how you wanna shoot your landscape.

    ever since i got my 50mm f1.4, i started using it for landscape. can be great fun too, and you'll realise what it really means to use telephoto lens for landscape. if 50mm can do some landscape, your 35mm being wider can do your style of landscape too.
    D90 | N 18-300mm f3.5-6.3G | N 50mm f1.4D | N 28mm f1.8G | N 40mm f2.8G micro

  9. #29

    Default Re: Newbie learning 35mm f1.8

    for landscapes do read up on hyperfocal distance focussing.

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