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Thread: computer monitor display not the same as camera LCD display

  1. #1

    Default computer monitor display not the same as camera LCD display

    Hi , I have this problem , my pictures in my nikon camera and photoshop look very different.
    My PC monitor screen tend to be more darker. Later I found out that the histogram look so different in my nikon camera and PC screen .
    What should I do?
    Do I need to calibrate my PC monitor? Any sites or books that your can recommend.
    As I am very new to photoshop.

    Thank you for your help.
    Last edited by dw8888; 14th November 2010 at 09:14 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Default Re: Got Problem, Help Needed.

    it is normal for the images to look better in the camera LCD then your monitor (i have asked this few months ago )

    so you may wish to calibrate your monitor with something called 'spyder' which cost quite a bit . . . which was one of the suggestions . . .

    after some discussion, i decided to leave it as it is . . . reason . . . your viewers may not have calibrated monitors as well, hence everyone's view of your images will be slightly different as well.

    i just make sure that my print out is consistent with my own monitor when viewed . . .

    i got a few photos printed out (from the same shop that i want to go for printing) and 'calibrate' my monitor . . .
    Shot more cos digital is FREE !!!

  3. #3

    Default Re: Got Problem, Help Needed.

    Note that you could only calibrate the monitor, can't calibrate the camera LCD

    The picture shown in the camera LCD always brighter than what you see in the computer.
    There is nothing wrong with that.

    But if you want to make the picture shown in the camera LCD as dark as in computer, you could adjust the LCD brightness

    1. Setup menu
    2. LCD brightness
    3. Adjust the value to -3
    NIKON D90 (2008-2010), D700 (2010-2012), D800 (2012-2014), DF (Dec 2013-Sep 2017)

  4. #4

    Default Re: Got Problem, Help Needed.

    - The quality of a standalone LCD monitor's panel is supreior to that of a camera's LCD, thus color accuracy differs. (even when you compare 2 different LCD monitors)
    - Camera's LCDs are usually configured in such a way that the images looks more vibrant
    - If you shoot in RAW, the image you preview in the camera is a generated JPG with all the settings applied from the camera. But when you view in on adobe camera raw, it's without all the camera settings.

    Calibrating your LCD monitor will make sure you are seeing more accurate results, but that won't make your colors looks the same as that of your camera's LCD.

  5. #5
    Senior Member sykestang's Avatar
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    Default Re: Got Problem, Help Needed.

    I would suggest LCD Brightness -2 instead. More closer to the actual exposure.
    Visit me at my studio: http://www.studiospace.com.sg

  6. #6
    Senior Member sykestang's Avatar
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    Default Re: Got Problem, Help Needed.

    Quote Originally Posted by dw8888 View Post
    Hi , I have this problem , my pictures in my nikon camera and photoshop look very different.
    My PC monitor screen tend to be more darker. Later I found out that the histogram look so different in my nikon camera and PC screen .
    What should I do?
    Do I need to calibrate my PC monitor? Any sites or books that your can recommend.
    As I am very new to photoshop.

    Thank you for your help.
    This problem is common. In fact I would not even say this is a problem at all.

    The main reasons is that most Nikon camera are designed to underexpose slightly. In most cases -0.3 to -0.7 stops depends on model. THERE IS NO PROBLEM WITH SUCH DESIGN.

    The main reason is to main details for you as much as possible. Do understand that digital photography is just like taking Postive in the past. The latter is very sensitive to light, only ard 7stops as compared to Negative. Over exposure would render no details, ie white color. Here are some suggestions you can do to get exposure corrected out of camera:
    1. Set EV compensation +0.3 to +0.7. Thru experience, +0.7 seems better, however you have to really test it out and understand your camera better. Advantage: solve your problem immediately, however this would seems to be a permanent setting on your camera.
    2. Download Trial version of Nikon Camera Control Pro, else I would suggest you to purchase a license for it on a long term basis. Set a custom curve and save it in your camera. But do becareful and do understand custom curve before you start doing this, else it might screwed up every photo you take with your camera if you set a curve that is too extreme. Alternatively, there are plenty of curves available on the internet, just google for it. Advantage: You'd have better control over colours, contrast, brightness, directly. In fact, there are many curves you can find on the Internet to give you pictures output close to film, etc. Disadvantage: You might screwed up your pictures for certain environment/situations if you set your curve too extreme.
    3. Stay put with every setting as neutral/default/Normal, ie, Picture Control - Neutral, d-Lighting - Off, etc. Just shoot more and get use to your camera. However, you must shoot RAW, cos I not sure if this works if you shoot only JPEGs. I've use many Nikon bodies before, and thru experience, the camera seems to get used to and 'tune' itself to the owner. For me I only shoot uncompressed RAW. The picture output seems more accurate after you hit a shutter count of 2000 and above. To be frank, this is not documented anywhere in the menu, but if you do speak to any experience Nikonian, they would tell you similar stories. Maybe it could be the other way round where you get used to the camera instead and able to control it better.
    For raw processing, I personally using Nikon Capture NX2 for exposure control and process it to TIFF then transfer to Photoshop for further DI if required. However do heard that many using Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop CSx directly and the output also seems as good. Advantage: This would be the ideal. And be it camera get used to your style or you get used to the camera's capabilities, this is still the solution and you'd improve your skills by shooting more.
    Visit me at my studio: http://www.studiospace.com.sg

  7. #7
    Moderator daredevil123's Avatar
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    Default Re: Got Problem, Help Needed.

    Quote Originally Posted by sykestang View Post
    For raw processing, I personally using Nikon Capture NX2 for exposure control and process it to TIFF then transfer to Photoshop for further DI if required. However do heard that many using Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop CSx directly and the output also seems as good. Advantage: This would be the ideal. And be it camera get used to your style or you get used to the camera's capabilities, this is still the solution and you'd improve your skills by shooting more.
    Do note that ACR for PS and Lightroom will open your RAW NEF files defaulted to brightness +50 and contrast +25 with camera calibration as "Adobe Standard". Will look very different from your SOOC JPEG output. If you like to have your starting point to be the same as your JPEG output, you need to use Capture NX2 or View NX2.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Got Problem, Help Needed.

    Hey thank for all your reply.
    Really cannot stand seeing my histogram look so curve and nice in between camera screen and look half curve in the monitor screen.
    Than NX software is a must?
    Thought I can do something to my Photoshop.

  9. #9
    Moderator catchlights's Avatar
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    Default Re: Got Problem, Help Needed.

    original thread title not specify.

    edited.
    Shoot to Live, Live to Shoot
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  10. #10

    Default Re: Got Problem, Help Needed.

    Quote Originally Posted by dw8888 View Post
    Hey thank for all your reply.
    Really cannot stand seeing my histogram look so curve and nice in between camera screen and look half curve in the monitor screen.
    Than NX software is a must?
    Thought I can do something to my Photoshop.
    Yes, it is a must if you want the brightness and contract and color tone as close as what you see in camera. With NX software, you should be able to convert the NEF format to TIFF format or highres JPEG for further editing in Photoshop.
    Last edited by jeff7id; 15th November 2010 at 08:32 PM.
    NIKON D90 (2008-2010), D700 (2010-2012), D800 (2012-2014), DF (Dec 2013-Sep 2017)

  11. #11

    Default Re: Got Problem, Help Needed.

    Quote Originally Posted by jeff7id View Post
    Yes, it is a must if you want the brightness and contract and color tone as close as what you see in camera. With NX software, you should be able to convert the NEF format to TIFF format or highres JPEG for further editing in Photoshop.
    Thank,
    So other than that I will have to pick out the photo I think is nicely compose and than do editing myself.

  12. #12

    Default Re: computer monitor display not the same as camera LCD display


  13. #13

    Default Re: computer monitor display not the same as camera LCD display

    I afraid no, don't think I wanted to go for that.
    Thank bornwild4

  14. #14

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dw8888 View Post
    I afraid no, don't think I wanted to go for that.
    Thank bornwild4
    np bro

  15. #15

    Default Re: computer monitor display not the same as camera LCD display

    Hi; I managed to download a trial to try out. Look very good

    But check out with some local shop, surprisingly not selling any.
    No sure if there a later version for windows 7 in the shop?
    Last edited by dw8888; 22nd November 2010 at 05:52 PM.

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