Thanks, must be my mental block that I forgot this techniques ... last time used this method to save picture where the web disallow you save ..Originally Posted by jimtong
i use a stofen omnibounce, and also have the same flash and cam as u. actually, doesn't matter wat u use, u'll still have shadows if u shoot directly at the model. the card or omnibounce only lessens the intensity of the shadow. the only way to avoid shadows, short of not using flash, is to shoot off walls.
either the card or omnibounce is a good investment. the card is cheaper. my omnibounce is bought from mscolor for $20/-.
If Life worked on auto mode then manual mode for photography would have never existed.” ― Deeksha Mittal
tat expodisc looks cool... but damn ex, i wonder will it work wonders on F828... anybody have it in their pheripheral list?
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The Omni Bounce serves best as my flash protective cap
To be serious, the omni bounce converts your direct flash into a bare bulb flash. This means that instead of having 100% of your flash light projected on your subject, you will now have more than 75% of your light going in all other directions. To achieve the same exposure, the flash will have to pump in more power and thus use more energy. Since its still a point source the shadow will still exist exactly at the same location same darkness.
So you'll ask, what this thing is good for, I guess the omni bounce is most useful if you're inside a room with white low walls. The scattered light will be reflected by the low walls and side walls to fill in the shadow on your subject.
Practically, To diffuse the shadow on the wall you'll need a larger light source than your subject. So you know why the TCS camera crew always have a fellow or two carrying huge reflective white boards while filming
I practise the total opposite.Originally Posted by jasonpgc
actually, if i have a small white wall and side wall all around, there is no need for an omni bounce. bouncing the flash at the ceiling or even the wall give me evenly lit exposure on the subject (make sure there is room btw you and subject for reflected light to come down). using an omni-bounce in this case give me hard shadow again.
in fact, i will practise the opposite of what you say and use an omni bounce only when i have no wall or ceiling to bounce. the bare bulb effect throw light all round... while still creating shadow is less hard than shooting straight on. In reality, I just shoot straight on with flash -1/2 - 1/3.
i also remebr someone mention a method using a old white VHS tape cover and cut it to fit the flash. also works.thinking about it, quite useful although i dun own any flash..kekekee....will try when it next time...
In fact, I practice the same as you do. I don't use any onmi bouce now. If I ever need a fill, I would use direct flash at either -1 or -2, or a just a simple white cardboard reflector. 99.9% of my pictures are taken in exisiting light w/o any flashOriginally Posted by zekai
Just asking, When to use Direct flash and when to tilt it to an angle? I understand Shooting in low ceiling tilt to bounce the flash. But outdoor how to bounce? In ttl mode, direct flash too harsh... Tilt to an angle, photo under expose... Sigh.. Using D70 & SB800. New to flash photography... Pls advise..