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Thread: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

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    Moderator daredevil123's Avatar
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    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    Quote Originally Posted by kriegsketten View Post

    Gladly... The above I tried to up the K values to 7140 to try to warm it up...

    ZCA, DD123 bros, can advice what caused the ghostly flares in the above images?

    I stacked 0.9 soft GND over 3.0ND
    woahhh... that is some major flare. Not sure what caused it... could it be reflections of sun hitting the lens from different directions? I haven't try my big stopper yet... maybe tomorrow. what is the angle of the sun? We might need to get the hood...


  2. #662

    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    Quote Originally Posted by kriegsketten View Post


    Gladly... The above I tried to up the K values to 7140 to try to warm it up...

    ZCA, DD123 bros, can advice what caused the ghostly flares in the above images?

    I stacked 0.9 soft GND over 3.0ND
    The more filters you stack, the more flares it is likely to produce as the light bounces off the elements onto the filters. I can count 3 groups of flares, you used 3 filters including the one on your lens + the stacked GND and ND? That's why some people don't even use any filters when they shoot, especially into the sun.
    Vision is more important than gear

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    Senior Member ZerocoolAstra's Avatar
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    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    Quote Originally Posted by kriegsketten View Post


    Gladly... The above I tried to up the K values to 7140 to try to warm it up...

    ZCA, DD123 bros, can advice what caused the ghostly flares in the above images?

    I stacked 0.9 soft GND over 3.0ND
    I like the colour tone

    The flare (quite major) probably due to the angle of the sun. If it's setting sun at LPR, then the sun should be just out of the frame?
    ie it's not behind you, thus it will be hitting the filter full-on and causing some internal reflections.
    The hood that DD123 showed looks cool!
    Exploring! :)

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    New Member kriegsketten's Avatar
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    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    Quote Originally Posted by ZerocoolAstra View Post
    I like the colour tone

    The flare (quite major) probably due to the angle of the sun. If it's setting sun at LPR, then the sun should be just out of the frame?
    ie it's not behind you, thus it will be hitting the filter full-on and causing some internal reflections.
    The hood that DD123 showed looks cool!
    Come to think of it... yes, for this shot, I did angle (20 to 30 degrees down from the horizon) the lens down quite a lot (to get the rocks into composition)... Hence the sunlight above the frame has plenty of opportunity to creep in...

    Quote Originally Posted by Ghaz1 View Post
    The more filters you stack, the more flares it is likely to produce as the light bounces off the elements onto the filters. I can count 3 groups of flares, you used 3 filters including the one on your lens + the stacked GND and ND? That's why some people don't even use any filters when they shoot, especially into the sun.
    Yes, you're right - 3 glass filters in front of the first glass element. Next time I may be tempted to remove all glasses except for the 3.0ND to cut down the probabilities.

    Quote Originally Posted by daredevil123 View Post
    woahhh... that is some major flare. Not sure what caused it... could it be reflections of sun hitting the lens from different directions? I haven't try my big stopper yet... maybe tomorrow. what is the angle of the sun? We might need to get the hood...

    Yeah, I don't think it's because of the Lee filter but more of the angle I aimed the lens at... you're right, the hood will be on the next to buy list. I've always wonder whether it was necessary...now haha it's a must...

    Quote Originally Posted by Smiles88 View Post
    Hmmm. The flares are really very obvious. Is it possible tt there's dust particles there? Sorry if it sounds stupid. Haha.
    Well I don't think the dusts could cause that big of a flare... I've always keep my glasses as free from dust as possible before I put them on. Most likely it is due to the angle I placed the lens at. Will need to look at the hood now... But you could be right, need to make sure they are EXTRA EXTRA clean...
    Last edited by kriegsketten; 18th September 2010 at 12:57 PM.
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    New Member kriegsketten's Avatar
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    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    What do you guys recommend for microfiber cleaning cloth? I think I want to get one for the filters. Tempted to apply dish-washing liquid and wash with water for the hitech filter. It should effectively remove all the grease - just need to use tissue to gently soak up all water and then use microfiber to get rid of whatever remnants of water (final wipe)...

    Btw.... I think Lee Big Stopper is like macam stained glass.... When you try to look at the sides directly... also very dark... no hint of clear glass. I've read somewhere on the net that their resin GNDs are also coloured resin (grey areas really grey when viewed from the side)... not coated. Just checked Hitech GND...also stained resin..not coated. Are all other brands the same? Cokins, Tian-ya, etc?
    Last edited by kriegsketten; 18th September 2010 at 01:09 PM.
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  6. #666

    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    Quote Originally Posted by ZerocoolAstra View Post
    if people are posing for the camera, 1/30 or 1/50 should not be a problem at all.
    If you're capturing candid/street then it's a different story.

    But f/1.8 and ISO1000 seems kinda extreme. You trying to use 1/125 kind of speed?
    Quote Originally Posted by daredevil123 View Post
    If light is that bad... maybe consider a flash?
    Yeah, I tried to shoot free performance at esplanade at night. Can't use flash and light is not good also

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    New Member kriegsketten's Avatar
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    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    POISON!!!...........

    D7000 has proper Mirror Lock-up.... D90 only have exposure delay function....

    Cham! Vely Cham!
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    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    Quote Originally Posted by kriegsketten View Post
    Yes, you're right - 3 glass filters in front of the first glass element. Next time I may be tempted to remove all glasses except for the 3.0ND to cut down the probabilities.
    Bro, your slot in filters are glass ar? I though GND and low ND are all resin filters.

    Anyway bro, you really need to remove the UV filter when using slotted filters..

  9. #669
    New Member kriegsketten's Avatar
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    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    Quote Originally Posted by daredevil123 View Post
    Bro, your slot in filters are glass ar? I though GND and low ND are all resin filters.

    Anyway bro, you really need to remove the UV filter when using slotted filters..
    Urm no, the hitech 0.9 GND is resin. My bad, forgot to count that out. Okay, I'll remove the clear glass protector next time I shoot. Thanks for the reminder!
    Last edited by kriegsketten; 18th September 2010 at 07:42 PM.
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    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    Quote Originally Posted by kriegsketten View Post
    Urm no, the hitech 0.9 GND is resin. My bad, forgot to count that out. Okay, I'll remove the clear glass protector next time I shoot. Thanks for the reminder!
    Oh ya, the big stopperz is glass treated to remove IR rays also..

    BTW, one thing, reflections cast will affect protector(UV) more because it is flat and big piece of glass. If you look at the lens element, it is concave and not that big. That is why a UV filter is so susceptible to flare/ghosts.

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    New Member kriegsketten's Avatar
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    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    Quote Originally Posted by daredevil123 View Post
    Oh ya, the big stopperz is glass treated to remove IR rays also..

    BTW, one thing, reflections cast will affect protector(UV) more because it is flat and big piece of glass. If you look at the lens element, it is concave and not that big. That is why a UV filter is so susceptible to flare/ghosts.
    Noted, thanks! Better anyway, coz with the holder on, I get vignetting at widest if the protector is there... I've tested holder without the protector, vignetting totally gone.

    IR Ray remover eh? Wah...
    Last edited by kriegsketten; 18th September 2010 at 08:20 PM.
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    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    Quote Originally Posted by kriegsketten View Post
    What do you guys recommend for microfiber cleaning cloth? I think I want to get one for the filters. Tempted to apply dish-washing liquid and wash with water for the hitech filter. It should effectively remove all the grease - just need to use tissue to gently soak up all water and then use microfiber to get rid of whatever remnants of water (final wipe)...

    Btw.... I think Lee Big Stopper is like macam stained glass.... When you try to look at the sides directly... also very dark... no hint of clear glass. I've read somewhere on the net that their resin GNDs are also coloured resin (grey areas really grey when viewed from the side)... not coated. Just checked Hitech GND...also stained resin..not coated. Are all other brands the same? Cokins, Tian-ya, etc?
    Bro they are all stained resin (glass). Just that the cheap Tianya's stain is not even sometimes.

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    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    Quote Originally Posted by kriegsketten View Post
    Noted, thanks! Better anyway, coz with the holder on, I get vignetting at widest if the protector is there... I've tested holder without the protector, vignetting totally gone.

    IR Ray remover eh? Wah...
    Color casts comes from IR light mah...

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    New Member kriegsketten's Avatar
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    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    Quote Originally Posted by daredevil123 View Post
    Bro they are all stained resin (glass). Just that the cheap Tianya's stain is not even sometimes.
    Good to know! So... what about ringed filters, why do they mention multicoated layers and so forth... Are they not stained as well? Or simply coated?...
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    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    Quote Originally Posted by kriegsketten View Post
    Good to know! So... what about ringed filters, why do they mention multicoated layers and so forth... Are they not stained as well? Or simply coated?...
    dude all ND filters are stained la... colored glass.

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    Senior Member ZerocoolAstra's Avatar
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    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    Quote Originally Posted by kriegsketten View Post
    Noted, thanks! Better anyway, coz with the holder on, I get vignetting at widest if the protector is there... I've tested holder without the protector, vignetting totally gone.

    IR Ray remover eh? Wah...
    i think most ND filters block the visible part of the spectrum, but allow some/all IR to pass through, which affects the image for a long exposure.
    This is what causes the colour cast.

    * someone please correct me if I'm mistaken.

    So it seems like the Big Stopper is able to block out the IR as well.
    Exploring! :)

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    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    Quote Originally Posted by kriegsketten View Post
    Good to know! So... what about ringed filters, why do they mention multicoated layers and so forth... Are they not stained as well? Or simply coated?...
    The multicoating is meant to reduce flare, and for some scratch-resistance.
    Exploring! :)

  18. #678

    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    since we are talking on the GND topic.
    wanna any recommendation for GND graduate grey?
    will it help to prevent overexpose of the sky? or what is recommended?

    Thanks

  19. #679
    Senior Member ZerocoolAstra's Avatar
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    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    It will help to some extent, depending on a number of factors.

    GNDs come in many varieties.
    I would say the 2 important points to note are:

    1) The 'strength' of the ND part (eg 2, 3, 4, etc stops).
    2) The 'hard-ness' of the boundary/transition between clear and dark part.

    But if you have buildings against the bright sky, how to really use ND effectively...? The dark part will also block the buildings.
    Exploring! :)

  20. #680

    Default Re: D90 Poison Club - TCSS Part I

    Quote Originally Posted by ZerocoolAstra View Post
    It will help to some extent, depending on a number of factors.

    GNDs come in many varieties.
    I would say the 2 important points to note are:

    1) The 'strength' of the ND part (eg 2, 3, 4, etc stops).
    2) The 'hard-ness' of the boundary/transition between clear and dark part.

    But if you have buildings against the bright sky, how to really use ND effectively...? The dark part will also block the buildings.
    to reduce the overexpose, a 2 stop is good enuff?
    i dun get you on the hard-ness part. haha

    attached is the overexpose pic.
    which i was like... aiyo. correct until also problem. haha


    ya you bring out a good point on the building with bright sky. sian. cause yester went to shot the kite, many sky are over expose. dun now how to correct.
    Last edited by quizesilver; 20th September 2010 at 09:05 AM.

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