Vision is more important than gear
The flare (quite major) probably due to the angle of the sun. If it's setting sun at LPR, then the sun should be just out of the frame?
ie it's not behind you, thus it will be hitting the filter full-on and causing some internal reflections.
The hood that DD123 showed looks cool!
Last edited by kriegsketten; 18th September 2010 at 12:57 PM.
What do you guys recommend for microfiber cleaning cloth? I think I want to get one for the filters. Tempted to apply dish-washing liquid and wash with water for the hitech filter. It should effectively remove all the grease - just need to use tissue to gently soak up all water and then use microfiber to get rid of whatever remnants of water (final wipe)...
Btw.... I think Lee Big Stopper is like macam stained glass.... When you try to look at the sides directly... also very dark... no hint of clear glass. I've read somewhere on the net that their resin GNDs are also coloured resin (grey areas really grey when viewed from the side)... not coated. Just checked Hitech GND...also stained resin..not coated. Are all other brands the same? Cokins, Tian-ya, etc?
Last edited by kriegsketten; 18th September 2010 at 01:09 PM.
D7000 has proper Mirror Lock-up.... D90 only have exposure delay function....
Cham! Vely Cham!
Last edited by kriegsketten; 18th September 2010 at 07:42 PM.
BTW, one thing, reflections cast will affect protector(UV) more because it is flat and big piece of glass. If you look at the lens element, it is concave and not that big. That is why a UV filter is so susceptible to flare/ghosts.
Last edited by kriegsketten; 18th September 2010 at 08:20 PM.
This is what causes the colour cast.
* someone please correct me if I'm mistaken.
So it seems like the Big Stopper is able to block out the IR as well.
since we are talking on the GND topic.
wanna any recommendation for GND graduate grey?
will it help to prevent overexpose of the sky? or what is recommended?
It will help to some extent, depending on a number of factors.
GNDs come in many varieties.
I would say the 2 important points to note are:
1) The 'strength' of the ND part (eg 2, 3, 4, etc stops).
2) The 'hard-ness' of the boundary/transition between clear and dark part.
But if you have buildings against the bright sky, how to really use ND effectively...? The dark part will also block the buildings.
i dun get you on the hard-ness part. haha
attached is the overexpose pic.
which i was like... aiyo. correct until also problem. haha
ya you bring out a good point on the building with bright sky. sian. cause yester went to shot the kite, many sky are over expose. dun now how to correct.
Last edited by quizesilver; 20th September 2010 at 09:05 AM.