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Thread: Need help on aperture n shutter setting!!!

  1. #21

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    what camera and what flash are you using?

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by blurblock
    what camera and what flash are you using?
    Eos 3000V, e flash is e built-in one

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by cs_sim
    Finally tried the shutter priority mode, but 1 Qn! I set the shutter speed to 125 to snap some shots of my goldfish, but when i on e flash, e speed reduced to a max of only 90. Why is this so? Does this mean e fastest speed tha can be used with flash is 90?
    yes. 1/90 is the x-speed for your cam body =)

  4. #24

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    Nothing wrong with it, the camera is syconised with the flash at 1/90 ....

    See :

    http://www.photozone.de/2Equipment/canoncamera.htm

    look under max. X-Sync., you will see the synco speed is 1/90

  5. #25

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    umm...ok. Sorry dun mind me asking , but what actually does X-sync mean? N what e diff btw shutter speed with e " and those w/o?

  6. #26

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    the " on the lcd means in shutter speed seconds . so if u see 4" => u r gonna take the shot @ 4 seconds

    x-speed applies only to cam bodies whose shutter is of the vertical focal plane type ie 2 curtains moving one after another inthe same direction. because of this setup, there will be a point where @ a particular shutter speed, the first curtain leave the frame just as the 2nd curtain move into the frame.

    that speed is the x-speed. it varies for diff cam bodies

    at any other faster shutter speed, both curtains move along with a gap in between them, that is of area smaller than the frame (24mmx36mm). ie its as good as a moving gap moving thru the frame.

    if u shoot with flash @ above x-speed, the flash light will only be of enff duration to light up the initial part of the scene where the gap moves thru....the end result is the picture ends up half-black-half-lighted up. which is well..supposedly undesirable according to common opinion.
    (need to visualise a bit)

    thats why on most modern cam bodies, the manufacturer disables shooting flash at anythign above x-speed

    the exception is when u turn the flash into FP/high-speed sync mode. once done, the flash will go off in a special way so that as long as the gap moves thru the frame, every part that the gap exposes will be adequately lighted up so u wont end up with "half-half" pictures

  7. #27

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    oh ok got it, thanks for e explanation. If i'm taking a shot of waterfall (Something like Niagara fall), shld i use 4" or 4 is gd enough? Is flash necessary?

  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by cs_sim
    oh ok got it, thanks for e explanation. If i'm taking a shot of waterfall (Something like Niagara fall), shld i use 4" or 4 is gd enough? Is flash necessary?
    ok ok let me answer this

    It depend on the effect you want.

    @ 4second, the waterfall might appear to be very silky on the film.
    say if you set to 1/4, 1/125 or 1/500 the flow of water will look freeze in mid air although 1/4 might still see some soft effect on the flow of water

    can always try and see for yourself

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimtong
    ok ok let me answer this

    It depend on the effect you want.

    @ 4second, the waterfall might appear to be very silky on the film.
    say if you set to 1/4, 1/125 or 1/500 the flow of water will look freeze in mid air although 1/4 might still see some soft effect on the flow of water

    can always try and see for yourself
    at 4 secs on a windy day den jialat oreadi rite? cos the leaves or anything gets blown and will get blur pic. is that correct?

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by bsplenden
    at 4 secs on a windy day den jialat oreadi rite? cos the leaves or anything gets blown and will get blur pic. is that correct?
    Then you have to balance to yourself the utility gain from a silky waterfall versus a utility loss from blurry leaves.

  11. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by bsplenden
    at 4 secs on a windy day den jialat oreadi rite? cos the leaves or anything gets blown and will get blur pic. is that correct?
    got to compromise lah. Remember as long as your "MAIN SUBJECT" is ok, the rest give and take abit.

    If the main subject is waterfall, then make sure the waterfall come out to your expectation.

  12. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by jimtong
    got to compromise lah. Remember as long as your "MAIN SUBJECT" is ok, the rest give and take abit.

    If the main subject is waterfall, then make sure the waterfall come out to your expectation.
    Is it better to set to 4 or is 8 better? Juz to confirm its 4 not 4" rite?

  13. #33

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    Lcd shows 4 -> means 1/4 ie one quarter of a second

    Lcd shows 4" -> means 4 ie four seconds

    any way u can try a few speeds, say 2 sec, 4 sec, 8 sec, 16 sec, etc and see which one the result u like best
    Last edited by clive; 10th May 2004 at 10:15 PM.

  14. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by cs_sim
    Is it better to set to 4 or is 8 better? Juz to confirm its 4 not 4" rite?
    You have to experiment. If you like 8 second then keep it that way else keep shooting with diff timing until you like.

    As clive have answered, camera show 4 means 1/4 (i.e 0.25 second),
    4" means 4 second.

  15. #35

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    I have neva taken any waterfall shot with my new cam before, it would be gd if there is somewhere i can try out at. Actually going to tour NYK, Phlly n Niagara fall are end of this mth, dun wan e photos to turn out a diseaster

  16. #36
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    cs_sim,

    Go join this outing to learn more about basics in photography: http://forums.clubsnap.org/showthread.php?t=74157

  17. #37

  18. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by cs_sim
    I have neva taken any waterfall shot with my new cam before, it would be gd if there is somewhere i can try out at. Actually going to tour NYK, Phlly n Niagara fall are end of this mth, dun wan e photos to turn out a diseaster

    nah.. no need, you can try at home using your tap. just place the washing board below the tap to simulate the waterfall, then snap snap snap

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