Macro of a Dragonfly. Pls advice

[CYRN]

Question...For pic 1, 2 and 3, look at the tip of the plant... how come got double image.

Except for pic 4...using 28-135 with 25mm extension tube. The rest are using Sigma 400mm with 500D.

All are taken handheld at 1/1600 @ F8 ISO 800 about 5-10cm away. Except for the last pic, all are using flash. USM applied, no cropping.

[FujiS2]

although u mention u shoot at 1/1600, but with with 400mm lens + 500D, very likely it's due to handshake.

[mr_jason]

I agree. For such a big lens like 400mm you should use tripod, especially when shooting macros. But such a long lens is usually not advised. The double image could have been caused by the subject suddenly moving, or you moving slightly just after the flash fired but before the shutter closed.

For all macro work, a tripod and cable release is ideal. This will allow you to shoot with the slowest shutter speed and smallest aperture and get sharp and well exposed shots. But most of the time we don't do this because it could be tedious to setup and compose, or the working angle just dosen't permit it.

The subject in the first 3 pictures looks overexposed, and on the 5th underexposed. Exposure is perfect in the 4th shot. I feel your flash is a bit harsh, and it burns away the colours. What you want is to nail the background exposure, and use as little flash compensation as possible to act as 'fill'. ISO 800 may be a bit on the high side, might want to limit yourself to ISO 400 in dark conditions, and generally work in ISO 100 and ISO 200.

With shutter at 1/1600, you won't be able to capture much ambient lighting. For dragonfly macros, I usually try to shoot at aperture f/11 onwards in good lighting. This will allow more of the subject to be in focus, showing the detail. Also, shutter of 1/20s (tripod mount) to 1/200s is the usual settings for macro shooting. It is always nice to expose the background instead of having it dark.

Composition wise, not much quibbles. Just that more depth of field would have been nicer to get more of the subjext in focus. This can be achieved also by shooting with the lens more parallel to the subject, so that all points along the same focal length will be in focus. By shooting at an angle, you will need a much smaller aperture to get the depth of field. I hope you don't mind that i use one of my pictures below to illustrate my point.

1/20s, f/14


Slow shutter has enabled me to get the background exposure, while the small aperture has allowed me to get more of the subject in focus, even though I was shooting at a very slight angle. This is still noticible because the tail end of the image is not very much in focus. Then flash at FEC -1 was used as fill.

I'd advise you to utilise the IS function on the 28-135, while using the extension tube. This is a decent combination. The IS will allow you to handhold around 1/30s or 1/60s at 135mm.

Looking forward to seeing your future shots.

[CYRN]

I tot the dragonfly's eyes are sharp.. below is a 100% crop of #2 pic.

Is it also possible to have handshake blur effect for the plant?



Thanks for the aperture settings...will try out the next time. Pic 5 is under cuz the flash did not recycle in time to fire

Your pic is

[CYRN]

I'd like to have the whole dragonfly below to be in focus... pls advice what aperture to use? USM applied but no cropping.



Pic taken at 1/1600 @ F9 ISO 800. Handheld with flash. Using Sigma 400mm only (no 500D).

thanks

[megaweb]

Originally Posted by CYRN Question...For pic 1, 2 and 3, look at the tip of the plant... how come got double image. Except for pic 4...using 28-135 with 25mm extension tube. The rest are using Sigma 400mm with 500D. All are taken handheld at 1/1600 @ F8 ISO 800 about 5-10cm away. Except for the last pic, all are using flash. USM applied, no cropping.

your shots (esp. the dragonfly eyes) are soft due to the DOF is shallow.. u need at least f22

[CYRN]

Originally Posted by megaweb your shots (esp. the dragonfly eyes) are soft due to the DOF is shallow.. u need at least f22

f22?

Given my shutter speed and ISO, even when FEC +2 dunnoe of the pic have enough exposure.

[mr_jason]

Originally Posted by CYRN f22? Given my shutter speed and ISO, even when FEC +2 dunnoe of the pic have enough exposure.

The picture you posted is tough, because the areas to be in focus covers a large range, in macro terms. From the eye to the tail is quite far.

As mentioned previously, to achieve f/22 would mean having to shoot at a much slower shutter to gain sufficient exposure. 1/5s - 1/60s would probably be the range you're looking at in well lit situatuons.. Hence a tripod would be necessary without question. High ISO causes lots of noise, which will 'spoil' your shot. Don't rely on flash to act as your main source of illumination. It should be there just to supplement.

[CYRN]

Originally Posted by mr_jason . 1/5s - 1/60s would probably be the range you're looking at in well lit situatuons.. Hence a tripod would be necessary without question. High ISO causes lots of noise, which will 'spoil' your shot. Don't rely on flash to act as your main source of illumination. It should be there just to supplement.

For 1/60 can it overcome slightly windy condition?

[mr_jason]

Originally Posted by CYRN For 1/60 can it overcome slightly windy condition?

Should never shoot when anything is moving. Wait till everything is calm and peaceful. Shooting during windy condition might not only cause blur image, but also the area you originally focus on may not become out of focus due to chance in length of subject to lens.

[CYRN]

Originally Posted by mr_jason Should never shoot when anything is moving. Wait till everything is calm and peaceful. Shooting during windy condition might not only cause blur image, but also the area you originally focus on may not become out of focus due to chance in length of subject to lens.

Should have stuck to digicams for macros...

BTW love your pic as linked below :

http://mishami.image.pbase.com/u16/m...354.dfeye3.jpg

[mr_jason]

You should only shoot macros in Av and M, never Tv. This is because controlling the aperature and resulting depth of field is the 'crux' of a macro shot. You can either shoot at the shutter the camera recommends with Av, or determine your own shutter speed in M. Shutter speed is for how the resulting exposure will be.

I used to shoot always in Av, until recently that with M, I realise I have more control over the exposure. Sometimes I don't want the exposure which the camera is metering for me, thus I will choose my own exposure by determind the shutter. Still learning how to use this effectively.

[mr_jason]

Originally Posted by CYRN Should have stuck to digicams for macros... BTW love your pic as linked below : http://mishami.image.pbase.com/u16/m...354.dfeye3.jpg

Thanks. Taken with my old G5, and reversed FD 50mm f/1.4 lens. One of my favourite extreme macros.

The reason I switched to DSLR was mainly to get better macro shots, with less noise and better focusing. This image above can be reproduced on a DSLR with a macro lens and lots of extension to make it maybe 2-3x life size. I have yet to get such images with my DSLR, as I haven't bought extension tubes yet. Working with a 180mm lens means I would need a significant amount of extension tubes to get 2-3x life size for extreme macros. Maybe will try when I get bored with taking close ups of insects, heh heh. For now I'm concentrating on improving my technique and composition skills.

[CYRN]

Was that pic cropped?

How close were you?

[mr_jason]

Cropped just the side and not the top to make it square shape and focus entirely on the eyes. Was very near, maybe 5cm? With reversed 50mm your working distance is SUPER little, and depth of field is thinner than paper thin. That's why the setup was very troublesome and hard to use.