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Old 7th April 2004   #1
sk163
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Default B+W Cir. Polarizer vs Nikon Cir. Polarizer...

Hi folks,

I Would like to purchase a Cir polarizer v.soon. Problems here is I've a very little knowledge about this product. Is B+W Cir. Polarizer better or Nikon Cir. Polarizer better (77mm) or any polarizer are all the same??? Anyone can highlight the pros & cons on each brand... I'm more concern into the result...

Nikon Cir. Polarizer
Pros:

Cons: Pricy (so far i know)


B+W Cir. Polarizer
Pros:

Cons:


Cheers,
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Old 7th April 2004   #2
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Is budget is an issue... the Hoya CP will function just as well...

the key to look out for is the tint of the glass... some have told me that the Hoya tends to be warmer than the B+W but I have yet to try out the Hoya myself. You could go to CP and test out the two brands for perference choice
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Old 12th April 2004   #3
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Thx sebastiansong for the input...
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Old 12th April 2004   #4
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Hi!
went to CP to buy cir polarizer yesterday, asked for Hoya but was recommended Tokina instead. Was told that Hoya is made by Tokina, they are the same, and Tokina is cheaper instead. Is this true? Then how come Tokina is cheaper? Any sub-standard in performance then?
Thanks for any feedbacks.
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Old 12th April 2004   #5
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Tokina, Hoya and Kenko are the same company.. Called THK Optics..

However they are not the same in quality.. Hoya filters are supposedly to be the best of the 3 brands..

Especially their Pro 1 Super Multicoated filters.. this cost as much or more the Nikon Original filters..

Between Nikon CP-L and B+W CP-L..

When you take up the B+W CP-L you will notice that it is slimmer and still very sturdyly constructed.. the Nikon CP-L are chunky and big.. as to clarity.. when seen side by side.. the B+W CP-L have some what less light loss.. but has the same or higher polarisation effect then the Nikon's.

Also B+W features the Slim CP-L for wide angles like the 18m or even the 12-24mm..

I have used Hoya CP-L.. yes they are cheap.. I have had one have condensation between the 2 elements.. and another the supposedly gray CP-L turned to bluish..
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Old 12th April 2004   #6
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Maybe there's a diff in the multicoat?
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Old 12th April 2004   #7
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Would like to borrow the thread to add on......

has anyone tried COKIN screw type filters?

any feedback on its performance as compared to Nikon, Hoya and B+w?

thanks.
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Old 12th April 2004   #8
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Originally Posted by swimcraze
Would like to borrow the thread to add on......

has anyone tried COKIN screw type filters?

any feedback on its performance as compared to Nikon, Hoya and B+w?

thanks.
They fade!!!!!!!! They Discolour!!!!!!!!

Give me my B+W.. thanks ESPN..
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Old 12th April 2004   #9
AReality
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So which brand/type of polarizer for wide angles?
77mm thread, 17mm focal length, 1.6x cropping factor
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Old 12th April 2004   #10
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Originally Posted by gadrian
They fade!!!!!!!! They Discolour!!!!!!!!

Give me my B+W.. thanks ESPN..
B+W rulez
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Old 12th April 2004   #11
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Originally Posted by AReality
So which brand/type of polarizer for wide angles?
77mm thread, 17mm focal length, 1.6x cropping factor
Erm, I though polariser use for wide angles isn't recommended as you will get uneven polarising due to the extreme wide angle of view of wide angle lens.
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Old 12th April 2004   #12
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Originally Posted by justarius
Erm, I though polariser use for wide angles isn't recommended as you will get uneven polarising due to the extreme wide angle of view of wide angle lens.
hhmm don't see how that happens? polarisor only filter light going in to make it planar, regardless of entry angle of light (whether wide angle or tele) the light won't be differently polarised? only pro I can see is vignetting with really wide angle lens.
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Old 12th April 2004   #13
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Nikon 20mm f2.8 with Lee Circular Polarizer.. on Velvia
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Old 13th April 2004   #14
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Originally Posted by justarius
Erm, I though polariser use for wide angles isn't recommended as you will get uneven polarising due to the extreme wide angle of view of wide angle lens.
Usually it's the sky and depends on where the sun is. You will notice it even with 28mm (42mm effective), have a couple of those. However, i like the effect. So it really depends on you.
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Old 13th April 2004   #15
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I'm using a Nikon polariser and found that I loose only about 1/3 stop. With Hoya, I loose about 1 - 1.5 stop.
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Old 13th April 2004   #16
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Actually I find that it is almost unnecessary to use Cir-PL to darken a blue sky if you are using a DSLR because you can always pump up saturation during post processing. Or if you are using a D70 like me, just switch to the LANDSCAPE mode and your skies will come up as blue as anything you can imagine, provided it is already a little blue.


Last edited by Ansel; 13th April 2004 at 01:14 AM.
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Old 13th April 2004   #17
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Originally Posted by Ansel
Actually I find that it is almost unnecessary to us Cir-PL to darken a blue sky if you are using a DSLR because you can always pump up saturation during post processing. Or if you are using a D70 like me, just switch to the LANDSCAPE mode and your skies will come up as blue as anything you can imagine, provided it is already a little blue.

wow nice picture there i will try that out
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Old 13th April 2004   #18
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hmm ... interesting. does it mean a cir pol is not needed if we are using a dslr?
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Old 13th April 2004   #19
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Originally Posted by kawa
hmm ... interesting. does it mean a cir pol is not needed if we are using a dslr?
Well, you will need it if you want to remove reflections off a glass surface or water surface, or other non-metalic surfaces. Not needed if you just want to darken blue sky.

Lagi satu...this sky looks naturally blue, without looking oversaturated. No PL of course.

http://images.fotopic.net/?id=333403...ze=1&nostamp=1
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Old 13th April 2004   #20
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Originally Posted by Ansel
Actually I find that it is almost unnecessary to us Cir-PL to darken a blue sky if you are using a DSLR because you can always pump up saturation during post processing. Or if you are using a D70 like me, just switch to the LANDSCAPE mode and your skies will come up as blue as anything you can imagine, provided it is already a little blue.
True. Though think it'd be somewhat useful to use in a hazy situation, for eg Indonesia haze. Just came back from a trip there, they everything also burn. Some pics i didn't use it and the pics come out wah lao....
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