Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: Using Light Meter

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Geylang
    Posts
    95

    Default Using Light Meter

    I just bought a Canon F-1n (center weight) and a New F-1 (center weight) and it seems that Mercury PX-625 battery is not available and using Alkaline ones @1.5V affects the metering (tried to figure out if it is always under or always over but seems to be not consistent after rolls of test shot). I was told that using the Lithium ones are better for the New F-1. Currently I have been using 4LR44 alkaline. All my life I have only used my 24 year-old New F-1 with Spot Metering screen and up to now has no problem with exposure using in-camera reading.

    So I decided to buy a simple L-208 and I have a few questions (think easier to ask then to waste a few rolls).

    1. Incident light. If under the sun (since always sunny here) or indoor like a evenly lighted ballroom, take the incident lighting reading and shoot at that reading for portraitures? Naturally need to compensate for filters used.

    2. Can I take Incident or Reflected reading by holding filters in front of the light meter? Sort of like TTL? Are the f-stop number on the filters accurate (I use only Hoya, B+W and some of them are also 24 years old)? Are multicoated black and white filters better? They are hard to find and much more expensive.

    3. Taking reflected reading, can I get very close (like 1m away) to the main subject and take a reading, emulating a spot metering? Then use this reading to take let say 15m away? Like taking a person under the shade. Or it makes more sense/accurate to us Incident Light? (Need to compensate?)

    4. Is there a maximum adaptor rings you can use? I have lenses of varies sizes (and those I plan to have). Forgot to mention I also shooting on a ZI rangefinder. So I have like a set of 72-77 mainly for my Canon and 58-62 for my CZ, VM and some Canon Lenses. I know it makes more sens to have like 43-58, 46-58, 52-58, 55-58 then 58-62 if necessary. However some I cannot find so by chance/availability I have 43->46->52->58->62 and 55->58->62 and with certain lenses/filter combination, It can be 4 adaptor rings! Kind of looks good, like a metal hood and save on the CZ hoods. I have not notice any optical degradation (well have not blown them big enough (and test shot with 1 or 4 rings for same filter and on same roll) or get a good enough scan to pixel peak)

    5. Related but off-topic: How to set circular-polar if camera got no TTL metering? Or set it using a light meter? Well "simple" is to just set it on a TTL camera (turn until 1 stop drop in reading) and remember the mark which I always forgot.
    Where is the best place to process (E-6 no choice la, Fotohub) B&W, C41 and get high quality scan. I have tried many places without scanning as I have a simple flatbed (Canon 8800F) but there is always scratches etc without fail (and not inflicted by my handling or air jetting) and from like 5 different shops! Yesterday I tried Fotohub and develop with 16 base scanning, Better, only 2 frames got small scratch marks from the scanned pictures; or are they not removed by software? I have not checked the actual negative yet; under stacks of magazine before I scan them myself. Collecting 2 more rolls from them today and see if they are better. Their 16 base scan no better than what I get from scanning 3200dpi with auto unsharp mask (I find this resolution the best after many many tries) on my Canon using the built in software. Silverfast better but tedious and I have the trial copy only (original very X).

    Hope someone can answer some of my questions.

    Thanks.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Using Light Meter

    I just bought a Canon F-1n (center weight) and a New F-1 (center weight) and it seems that Mercury PX-625 battery is not available and using Alkaline ones @1.5V affects the metering

    I would expect so. The New F1 was designed to take a 6V batter.

    I was told that using the Lithium ones are better for the New F-1. Currently I have been using 4LR44 alkaline. All my life I have only used my 24 year-old New F-1 with Spot Metering screen and up to now has no problem with exposure using in-camera reading.

    The 4LR44 should work, but you might want to try a Duracell PX 28L 6V lithium.'

    When was the last time the body was overhauled and CLAed? It is a possibility that after 24 years, something needs to be cleaned/serviced, and something as simple as dirty/corroded/oxidised internal contacts could affect the metering response.


    So I decided to buy a simple L-208 and I have a few questions (think easier to ask then to waste a few rolls).

    Eventually you would still have to burn a few rolls.

    1. Incident light. If under the sun (since always sunny here) or indoor like a evenly lighted ballroom, take the incident lighting reading and shoot at that reading for portraitures? Naturally need to compensate for filters used.

    Yes, in general. Compensate for subjects that deviate a lot from the usual perception of middle grey.

    2. Can I take Incident or Reflected reading by holding filters in front of the light meter? Sort of like TTL? Are the f-stop number on the filters accurate (I use only Hoya, B+W and some of them are also 24 years old)? Are multicoated black and white filters better? They are hard to find and much more expensive.

    Only if the filters are able to cover the entrance pupil / sensor area completely.

    After 24 years, some density shifts could have occured in the dyes used in such filters. Best is to do a series of test trials.


    3. Taking reflected reading, can I get very close (like 1m away) to the main subject and take a reading, emulating a spot metering? Then use this reading to take let say 15m away? Like taking a person under the shade. Or it makes more sense/accurate to us Incident Light? (Need to compensate?)

    You could try, but I suspect you might get variable readings with slight variance of physical angles/distance etc because it's still a wide area sensor you will be using.

    4. Is there a maximum adaptor rings you can use?

    Yes, depending on what's available. Stacking rings is usually not a major problem with high quality filters and if you're not shooting under very demanding light conditions - your main concern would be flare issues since you're altering the angle of the way light enters and hits the front of your lens (from the perspective of where the filter is. Do a trial and see how many you can stack before things get bad.

    5. Related but off-topic: How to set circular-polar if camera got no TTL metering? Or set it using a light meter? Well "simple" is to just set it on a TTL camera (turn until 1 stop drop in reading) and remember the mark which I always forgot.

    Again, only if the filter completely ciovers the ebntrance pupil of the light meter or sensor.


    Where is the best place to process (E-6 no choice la, Fotohub) B&W, C41 and get high quality scan. I have tried many places without scanning as I have a simple flatbed (Canon 8800F) but there is always scratches etc without fail (and not inflicted by my handling or air jetting) and from like 5 different shops! Yesterday I tried Fotohub and develop with 16 base scanning, Better, only 2 frames got small scratch marks from the scanned pictures; or are they not removed by software? I have not checked the actual negative yet; under stacks of magazine before I scan them myself. Collecting 2 more rolls from them today and see if they are better. Their 16 base scan no better than what I get from scanning 3200dpi with auto unsharp mask (I find this resolution the best after many many tries) on my Canon using the built in software. Silverfast better but tedious and I have the trial copy only (original very X).

    I posted up a thread with a list of labs that still handle film, their fees and user feedback.

    http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=513023

    For quality B&W and scanning, most of us do it ourselves.


    Hope someone can answer some of my questions.

    Thanks.

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Geylang
    Posts
    95

    Default Re: Using Light Meter

    Thanks Dream Merchant

  4. #4

    Default Re: Using Light Meter

    nice info!

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •