A question for the "lao chiao"

Lion king · 19th February 2004

This pic was taken with the Canon 100-400IS on a EOS10D.

1/500@F9
AV@-1
ISO200
Tripod mounted

I'm still having over exposure on the wings on these little egrets even at AV -1.
As the 10D doesn't have any spot metering mode built into it, I have to relied on aperture priority to shoot.
Question is....should I step down further to say...-1 and a half or -2 in to avoid over exposure or is there a better way of doing it?

Your comments are greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Darren · 19th February 2004

Originally Posted by Lion king

This pic was taken with the Canon 100-400IS on a EOS10D.

1/500@F9
AV@-1
ISO200
Tripod mounted

I'm still having over exposure on the wings on these little egrets even at AV -1.
As the 10D doesn't have any spot metering mode built into it, I have to relied on aperture priority to shoot.
Question is....should I step down further to say...-1 and a half or -2 in to avoid over exposure or is there a better way of doing it?

Your comments are greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

I am guessing that this pic is cropped and that the birds are in the middle of the frame.

Your statement - "10D doesn't have any spot metering mode built into it, I have to relied on aperture priority" - is a bit off the mark as aperture priority mode is not synonymous with the metering mode; and is separate.

Metering modes are typically:-
Evaluative (or Matrix) using fullframe and multiple sensors
Center-weighted (area of circle can sometimes be varied)
Spot (usually tied to a focusing point)

Not knowing how big in the frame the birds were nor which metering mode (Matrix or Centre), it would be hard to advise how much more to compensate, but you are not far in saying that -1.5EV or -2EV would get you there.

ST1100 · 19th February 2004

10D has pseudo spot metering, called 'partial metering' or something like that - 10% or so of the centre of the frame.

To expose for highlights, spot (or partial) on the BRIGHTEST area in the picture, and overexpose 1-3 stops, depending on how bright that spot is. For sky, i use 2 stops. This method ensures the highlights are almost never blown, though you risk underexposing some other elements.

Don't forget your camera's set to overexposure before moving on.

Harlequin · 19th February 2004

On my 10D, Av is what i normally use, underexposing by -2/3 or -1 EV.
White birds tends to cause the 10D to overexpose, which it already does. Shoot RAW mode and underexpose by -1/3 from what you think would be the correct exposure. I find this works for whitebirds on the 10D.

skfoo · 19th February 2004

Lion king,

I am not a Canon user or a “lao chiao” . Being a DSLR user, I would have thought you could use the LCD screen at the back of the camera to check for over-exposed areas (the blinking light in the LCD screen denote over-exposed areas). The histogram (though I hardly use it) will indicate whether the exposures are skewed towards brightness or darkness.

It means that you would need to take some test shots first and wait for actions to happen. If there are blinking light on the wings area for instance, dial more –EV until no blinking light is seen. DSLR can help to take away guesswork in the field and this is one of them.

Cheers.

Lion king · 19th February 2004

Thanks for the insights guys

SK...I did check on the LCD screen when setting the exposure level. At normal exposure, I was getting over-exposed areas along the wings. These disappeared at -1. That was the reason I'd stayed at -1. Guess I should had stepped down further.

Harlequin and ST....will try out your suggestions.

Darren....point noted.

Once again...thanks guys

Wryer · 19th February 2004

Originally Posted by Lion king

This pic was taken with the Canon 100-400IS on a EOS10D.

1/500@F9
AV@-1
ISO200
Tripod mounted

I'm still having over exposure on the wings on these little egrets even at AV -1.
As the 10D doesn't have any spot metering mode built into it, I have to relied on aperture priority to shoot.
Question is....should I step down further to say...-1 and a half or -2 in to avoid over exposure or is there a better way of doing it?

Your comments are greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Hi Darren,
So from your post, i gather that on those white, we should do -EV to get the desired white, am i right?

But i remembered i read somewhere that on white surfaces like snow, the camera's meter is fooled and we should +EV to compesate for it. May i know which is the correct method?

Sorry for being so mah fan

Hope some CSers can help us on this..

Thanks!

Regards
Wryer

Avatar · 19th February 2004

Lion King,

Like skfoo, I am neither a Canon user nor am I a "lao chiao".

From what I see in your setting :
1/500@F9
AV@-1
ISO200
Tripod mounted

A crucial information is missing, that is the metering mode you used for this shot.

Now, assuming you had used your 10D's evaluative meter, that is IMO the cause of the overexposure because Evaluative meters are prone to be large areas of white in a given scene. If you are to down your EV settings, you may be underexposing some details in your photo.

As such, from the shot you posted, it will be IMO that you try using Center Weighted Metering (ie. the mode between Evaluative and your Partial meter) with a little EV bias of -0.5 to -0.7. This is the mode and compensation I use most often for action orientated shots on birds that are generally white in color.

You can use your partial meter or a spot meter but in such scenes where action is thick, one may find it quite difficult to get a proper reading in time.

Hope it helps!

Lion king · 20th February 2004

Wryer....what Darren is implying is that in EV metering mode, it would be appropriate to dial in a -1 1/2 to -2 in order not to overexpose the whites. On the other hand, you dial in a +1 to +3 when using the spot metering or partial metering mode.

Avatar...This pic was shot in the EV metering mode. Hmm....using center weighted metering and dialing in -0.5 to 0.7, it's something that I got to try out. But would a -0.5 to a -0.7 be enuff?

Wryer · 20th February 2004

Originally Posted by Lion king

Wryer....what Darren is implying is that in EV metering mode, it would be appropriate to dial in a -1 1/2 to -2 in order not to overexpose the whites. On the other hand, you dial in a +1 to +3 when using the spot metering or partial metering mode.

Avatar...This pic was shot in the EV metering mode. Hmm....using center weighted metering and dialing in -0.5 to 0.7, it's something that I got to try out. But would a -0.5 to a -0.7 be enuff?

Oh i see! Yeah, missed out thinking about the metering mode. Thanks dude!

showtime · 20th February 2004

Originally Posted by Lion king

This pic was taken with the Canon 100-400IS on a EOS10D.

1/500@F9
AV@-1
ISO200
Tripod mounted

I'm still having over exposure on the wings on these little egrets even at AV -1.
As the 10D doesn't have any spot metering mode built into it, I have to relied on aperture priority to shoot.
Question is....should I step down further to say...-1 and a half or -2 in to avoid over exposure or is there a better way of doing it?

Your comments are greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

you mentioned no spot meter and thus have to use apperture prioty...
what is the relation between the 2?

and if you had spot meter, you would use some other mode like shutter priority, programme or manual?

i dont understand why you are saying this...

Lion king · 21st February 2004

My mistake

...
it should be
EV@-1

19th February 2004	#1
Lion king Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Singapore Posts: 518	A question for the "lao chiao" This pic was taken with the Canon 100-400IS on a EOS10D. 1/500@F9 AV@-1 ISO200 Tripod mounted I'm still having over exposure on the wings on these little egrets even at AV -1. As the 10D doesn't have any spot metering mode built into it, I have to relied on aperture priority to shoot. Question is....should I step down further to say...-1 and a half or -2 in to avoid over exposure or is there a better way of doing it? Your comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

19th February 2004	#4
Harlequin Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: East of Singapore Posts: 1,651	On my 10D, Av is what i normally use, underexposing by -2/3 or -1 EV. White birds tends to cause the 10D to overexpose, which it already does. Shoot RAW mode and underexpose by -1/3 from what you think would be the correct exposure. I find this works for whitebirds on the 10D. __________________ http://www.avianwatchasia.org for some real bird photos My website : http://www.gorgeousfeathers.com

19th February 2004	#3
ST1100 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Singapore, Bedok Posts: 1,801	10D has pseudo spot metering, called 'partial metering' or something like that - 10% or so of the centre of the frame. To expose for highlights, spot (or partial) on the BRIGHTEST area in the picture, and overexpose 1-3 stops, depending on how bright that spot is. For sky, i use 2 stops. This method ensures the highlights are almost never blown, though you risk underexposing some other elements. Don't forget your camera's set to overexposure before moving on.

19th February 2004	#5
skfoo Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Posts: 1,186	Lion king, I am not a Canon user or a “lao chiao” . Being a DSLR user, I would have thought you could use the LCD screen at the back of the camera to check for over-exposed areas (the blinking light in the LCD screen denote over-exposed areas). The histogram (though I hardly use it) will indicate whether the exposures are skewed towards brightness or darkness. It means that you would need to take some test shots first and wait for actions to happen. If there are blinking light on the wings area for instance, dial more –EV until no blinking light is seen. DSLR can help to take away guesswork in the field and this is one of them. Cheers.

19th February 2004	#6
Lion king Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Singapore Posts: 518	Thanks for the insights guys SK...I did check on the LCD screen when setting the exposure level. At normal exposure, I was getting over-exposed areas along the wings. These disappeared at -1. That was the reason I'd stayed at -1. Guess I should had stepped down further. Harlequin and ST....will try out your suggestions. Darren....point noted. Once again...thanks guys

19th February 2004	#8
Avatar Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Singapore / Taiwan Posts: 1,244	Lion King, Like skfoo, I am neither a Canon user nor am I a "lao chiao". From what I see in your setting : 1/500@F9 AV@-1 ISO200 Tripod mounted A crucial information is missing, that is the metering mode you used for this shot. Now, assuming you had used your 10D's evaluative meter, that is IMO the cause of the overexposure because Evaluative meters are prone to be large areas of white in a given scene. If you are to down your EV settings, you may be underexposing some details in your photo. As such, from the shot you posted, it will be IMO that you try using Center Weighted Metering (ie. the mode between Evaluative and your Partial meter) with a little EV bias of -0.5 to -0.7. This is the mode and compensation I use most often for action orientated shots on birds that are generally white in color. You can use your partial meter or a spot meter but in such scenes where action is thick, one may find it quite difficult to get a proper reading in time. Hope it helps!

20th February 2004	#9
Lion king Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Singapore Posts: 518	Wryer....what Darren is implying is that in EV metering mode, it would be appropriate to dial in a -1 1/2 to -2 in order not to overexpose the whites. On the other hand, you dial in a +1 to +3 when using the spot metering or partial metering mode. Avatar...This pic was shot in the EV metering mode. Hmm....using center weighted metering and dialing in -0.5 to 0.7, it's something that I got to try out. But would a -0.5 to a -0.7 be enuff?

21st February 2004	#12
Lion king Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Singapore Posts: 518	My mistake ... it should be EV@-1