What will happed if...??

[shaoken]

I thinking of taking photos, with Slide films, normal process it.

Sorry for my noob questions:
1. I'm maybe taking photos at higher ISO than the speed of film..
(Example: Set my ISO to 200 rather than 100 on an ISO 100 film, Aperture: F8, Shutter speed: 1/200)

What will be the end result?

2. On top of that, anyone knows how Elitechrome EBX, Ektachrome 100VS differ from Velvia 50/100F and Provia 100F when normal processed?
Which is better for landscape/nature shots?


Noob who needs advice from you guys says...
Thanks! (in advance)

[Janson]

eerrr underexpose lor? as for the slide film, i think provia not bad for landscape/nature. flickr search and you will see

[night86mare]

Originally Posted by shaoken Which is better for landscape/nature shots?

your choice.

[shaoken]

Originally Posted by Janson eerrr underexpose lor? as for the slide film, i think provia not bad for landscape/nature. flickr search and you will see

By setting ISO 200 on ISO 100 film, it will be underexposed and not overexposed?
Hmm.. Ok, I'll do a search.

[Yoricko]

Originally Posted by shaoken I thinking of taking photos, with Slide films, normal process it. Sorry for my noob questions: 1. I'm maybe taking photos at higher ISO than the speed of film.. (Example: Set my ISO to 200 rather than 100 on an ISO 100 film, Aperture: F8, Shutter speed: 1/200) What will be the end result?

Underexposure. Push process to solve it. Grains get bigger, gets a little more contrasty.

If you shot at ISO200 for a ISO100 film, it means you're exposing for ISO200, which is more light sensitive than ISO100, and therefore requiring a shorter exposure time and resulting in underexposure.

[Yoricko]

Originally Posted by shaoken 2. On top of that, anyone knows how Elitechrome EBX, Ektachrome 100VS differ from Velvia 50/100F and Provia 100F when normal processed? Which is better for landscape/nature shots? UBER NOOB who needs advice from you guys says... Thanks! (in advance)

Originally Posted by night86mare your choice.

As above.

[shaoken]

Originally Posted by Yoricko Underexposure. Push process to solve it. Grains get bigger, gets a little more contrasty. If you shot at ISO200 for a ISO100 film, it means you're exposing for ISO200, which is more light sensitive than ISO100, and therefore requiring a shorter exposure time and resulting in underexposure.

Ok, thanks for the explanation.

[squall]

Originally Posted by shaoken I thinking of taking photos, with Slide films, normal process it. Sorry for my noob questions: 1. I'm maybe taking photos at higher ISO than the speed of film.. (Example: Set my ISO to 200 rather than 100 on an ISO 100 film, Aperture: F8, Shutter speed: 1/200) What will be the end result? 2. On top of that, anyone knows how Elitechrome EBX, Ektachrome 100VS differ from Velvia 50/100F and Provia 100F when normal processed? Which is better for landscape/nature shots? Noob who needs advice from you guys says... Thanks! (in advance)

I only have experience with Ektachrome, Velvia (both) and Provia. For landscapes I would go with Ektachrome or Velvia as they saturate better and give punchier colours (Velvia 50 most vivid, esp the greens). If you try it and Velvia is too vivid for you, then go to Ektachrome. Provia is great for portraits and skin tones esp asian skin which tends to "over yellow" (a matter of personal taste here) with the other more vivid formulations. Provia is ok for landscape but that was not what it was optimised for.

[catchlights]

Originally Posted by shaoken ............................... .................... 1. I'm maybe taking photos at higher ISO than the speed of film.. (Example: Set my ISO to 200 rather than 100 on an ISO 100 film, Aperture: F8, Shutter speed: 1/200) What will be the end result? ......................

you are telling the camera meter you are using a faster film but you are using a slower film instead. so the camera will give half of the exposure to the film, end result: underexposed by one stop.

btw, slide film has less tolerance with exposure error compare to negative film. unlike shooting digital you still have photoshop, and you have to consistant with your exposure, there is no way for the lab to pull process first and last 10 frame, push process frame 11 to 20, and the rest normal processing.

[shaoken]

Originally Posted by squall I only have experience with Ektachrome, Velvia (both) and Provia. For landscapes I would go with Ektachrome or Velvia as they saturate better and give punchier colours (Velvia 50 most vivid, esp the greens). If you try it and Velvia is too vivid for you, then go to Ektachrome. Provia is great for portraits and skin tones esp asian skin which tends to "over yellow" (a matter of personal taste here) with the other more vivid formulations. Provia is ok for landscape but that was not what it was optimised for.

Oh. That means that for landscape, Ektachrome (E100VS and E100G) and Velvia (50/100F) gives very saturated vivid colours?

Originally Posted by catchlights you are telling the camera meter you are using a faster film but you are using a slower film instead. so the camera will give half of the exposure to the film, end result: underexposed by one stop. btw, slide film has less tolerance with exposure error compare to negative film. unlike shooting digital you still have photoshop, and you have to consistant with your exposure, there is no way for the lab to pull process first and last 10 frame, push process frame 11 to 20, and the rest normal processing.

This means that it's better to shoot at neutral exposure, without underexposing and overexposing?
Or should I shoot 1/2-stop under/overexposed?

********

Sorry for the trouble, as I'm new into film.
All along played digital so no knowledge about slide films..

[catchlights]

Originally Posted by shaoken Oh. That means that for landscape, Ektachrome (E100VS and E100G) and Velvia (50/100F) gives very saturated vivid colours? This means that it's better to shoot at neutral exposure, without underexposing and overexposing? Or should I shoot 1/2-stop under/overexposed? ******** Sorry for the trouble, as I'm new into film. All along played digital so no knowledge about slide films..

to be a film purist, you take a roll of slide film which you will use mainly, photograph the Kodak color chart or Macbeth color checker, together with a graycard, using your in camera meter, and a handheld meter, under constant lighting, write down the notes with all the exposure sitting in 1/2 stops difference, eg #1 camera meter at graycard f8, 1/30 rate at ISO 32, #2 f8, 1/60 rate at ISO 64, #3 f8, 1/125 rate at ISO 125 etc.....

than send for normal processing, after that, put the whole strip on the light box, carefully study the strip, which ISO rating give you the correct exposure, that will be the idea ISO rating for this film according to your camera.

If you change your lab, another type of film or camera, you have do the test again

[jimbo12345]

If you're unsure, why not just bracket???

[catchlights]

Originally Posted by jimbo12345 If you're unsure, why not just bracket???

not everything you can bracket, for an instant, if you are photographing human, you can't tell your subject keep holding the pose and expression for you to do bracketing.

you would rather bracketing their expression/poses instead your exposure.

[realgar]

if shoot at iso 200 setting for iso 100 film, images will turn out dark.

when cross processed, different film have different colour cast. elitechrome ebx tends to have very saturated colours, maybe a little blue/green shift. ektachrome 100vs i not sure. velvia 50 is slightly yellow-greenish, velvia 100f is magenta/red cast. provia 100f is greenish.

Originally Posted by shaoken I thinking of taking photos, with Slide films, normal process it. Sorry for my noob questions: 1. I'm maybe taking photos at higher ISO than the speed of film.. (Example: Set my ISO to 200 rather than 100 on an ISO 100 film, Aperture: F8, Shutter speed: 1/200) What will be the end result? 2. On top of that, anyone knows how Elitechrome EBX, Ektachrome 100VS differ from Velvia 50/100F and Provia 100F when normal processed? Which is better for landscape/nature shots? Noob who needs advice from you guys says... Thanks! (in advance)