ZERO post processing.....anyone?

[sulhan]

Hieee...

(NOTE: Resizing and bordering not considered post process in this case)

I would like to know from those A1 users if you do lots of post processing (e.g color, levels, sharpening etc...) or ZERO post processing on the pictures that you take on the A1.

To be frank......my personal experiences for the A1 is that after settling down with some customised settings - since day 1 of use, I have gone into a ZERO post processing stage.

Its now like a Take-> View ->Print cycle for me.

Lets have you A1 users to share your photos and see how we can share custom settings to gain a better/higher hit rate without the need to post process....

And we can help each other....

rgds,
me

[yeocolin]

wow, is post processing really that necessary in using digital camera? I'm a film user, so I have no experience in this. Is it because CCD can't capture colour as accurately as film?

However, its good to know what is the current problems digital users now face so that in the future when I do get a digital camera, I can look out for these problems.

[forbytes]

I always set colour +3 when shooting in JPEG. Nowadays I shoot in RAW, any setting performed on the camera is not in force and the Minolta Dimage Viewer software will ask you to set the relevant parameters for the photo.

[sulhan]

Hi forbes...

Same setting........its my favourite setting......for now.....Color +3.....

heheheh!!!!!


rgds,
me

[forbytes]

for those interested, my setting are mostly as follows:

+3 colour, ISO 100, RAW, Auto white balance, normal SRGB, noise reduction on

other settings such as contrast, sharpness are left as default.

Beware that there are some artefacts problems when using the on board JPEG bayers interpolation for JPEG compression. Using your PC to convert RAW to JPEG can reduce the artefacts and so call noise in your picture.

Why +3 colour? Because the colours are a little dull and not vibrant enough. Pump up the colour can solve a bit of the problem. The good thing about A1 is that when you apply filters and effects on the camera, it is immediately reflected in your display. If the colour is not vibrant enough just pump up a bit more.

Why not Vivid SRGB setting? my experience with Vivid SRGB setting is quite bad. I tried to use Vivid SRGB for 30 second exposure and it "enhance" the noise to a great extend. Vivid SRGB can be use for normal shots but never long exposure.

The auto white balance is a little tricky. It is not 100% accurate and you need to be careful of the ambient lighting condition. Typically if the situation is quite bad or you are unsure, I recommend that you always bring out a white card or A4 white paper in your camera bag, then use the custom white balance and calibrate on the A4 paper. It works for me everytime. Cloudy or tungsten etc are good options if you do not have a white card. (Get the bounce card from Sulhan and put in your camera bag for calibration )

My 2 cents.

[forbytes]

another issue with the video capture mode. It is one of the best in terms of quality and duration of shoot (up to 15 minutes). There is a automatic adjustment on night video or day video. Basically in night video shooting mode, the video is captured in black and white. There is a custom setting to force it to always record in colour mode. That is really a strength of A1.

This is not OT yet as there is a setting to control this video shooting mode. Enjoy the video shooting. A 15 minute short clip is cool....

[ndroo-]

Originally Posted by forbytes for those interested, my setting are mostly as follows: +3 colour, ISO 100, RAW, Auto white balance, normal SRGB, noise reduction on other settings such as contrast, sharpness are left as default. Beware that there are some artefacts problems when using the on board JPEG bayers interpolation for JPEG compression. Using your PC to convert RAW to JPEG can reduce the artefacts and so call noise in your picture. Why +3 colour? Because the colours are a little dull and not vibrant enough. Pump up the colour can solve a bit of the problem. The good thing about A1 is that when you apply filters and effects on the camera, it is immediately reflected in your display. If the colour is not vibrant enough just pump up a bit more. Why not Vivid SRGB setting? my experience with Vivid SRGB setting is quite bad. I tried to use Vivid SRGB for 30 second exposure and it "enhance" the noise to a great extend. Vivid SRGB can be use for normal shots but never long exposure. The auto white balance is a little tricky. It is not 100% accurate and you need to be careful of the ambient lighting condition. Typically if the situation is quite bad or you are unsure, I recommend that you always bring out a white card or A4 white paper in your camera bag, then use the custom white balance and calibrate on the A4 paper. It works for me everytime. Cloudy or tungsten etc are good options if you do not have a white card. (Get the bounce card from Sulhan and put in your camera bag for calibration ) My 2 cents.

great. thanks. maybe you guys can share more of these info ... they make the learning curve for newbies like me a lot easier

cheers

[ndroo-]

Originally Posted by forbytes for those interested, my setting are mostly as follows: +3 colour, ISO 100, RAW, Auto white balance, normal SRGB, noise reduction on other settings such as contrast, sharpness are left as default. Beware that there are some artefacts problems when using the on board JPEG bayers interpolation for JPEG compression. Using your PC to convert RAW to JPEG can reduce the artefacts and so call noise in your picture. Why +3 colour? Because the colours are a little dull and not vibrant enough. Pump up the colour can solve a bit of the problem. The good thing about A1 is that when you apply filters and effects on the camera, it is immediately reflected in your display. If the colour is not vibrant enough just pump up a bit more. Why not Vivid SRGB setting? my experience with Vivid SRGB setting is quite bad. I tried to use Vivid SRGB for 30 second exposure and it "enhance" the noise to a great extend. Vivid SRGB can be use for normal shots but never long exposure. The auto white balance is a little tricky. It is not 100% accurate and you need to be careful of the ambient lighting condition. Typically if the situation is quite bad or you are unsure, I recommend that you always bring out a white card or A4 white paper in your camera bag, then use the custom white balance and calibrate on the A4 paper. It works for me everytime. Cloudy or tungsten etc are good options if you do not have a white card. (Get the bounce card from Sulhan and put in your camera bag for calibration ) My 2 cents.

on average, what's the size of files in RAW format in A1? how many pics can a 512MB store (avg)?

[forbytes]

Originally Posted by ndroo on average, what's the size of files in RAW format in A1? how many pics can a 512MB store (avg)?

I am using 1 GB card and it gives me a milelage of about 135 shots. Pro-rate if necessary.

[Zplus]

Good to hear that! ALways nice to have zero post processing as it sames tons of time! Post some to share??

Originally Posted by sulhan Hieee... (NOTE: Resizing and bordering not considered post process in this case) I would like to know from those A1 users if you do lots of post processing (e.g color, levels, sharpening etc...) or ZERO post processing on the pictures that you take on the A1. To be frank......my personal experiences for the A1 is that after settling down with some customised settings - since day 1 of use, I have gone into a ZERO post processing stage. Its now like a Take-> View ->Print cycle for me. Lets have you A1 users to share your photos and see how we can share custom settings to gain a better/higher hit rate without the need to post process.... And we can help each other.... rgds, me

[sulhan]

On Your Monitors....

Here are some kinda fresh shots within this couple of weeks. All shot at FLASH white balance.

Color Set to +3. All resized to width of 350 pixel. No other touch up done.


Full 90 degrees ceiling bounce with no card.


Head on flash at Pre-flash TTL


Wireless flash on left side of camera


60 degrees flash bounce with card


Full 90 degrees ceiling bounce with no card.

95% of the photos sofar i've posted with the A1 in the past were only resized _ like the sunset series.

Regards,
Sulhan

[offspring]

steady lah. sulhan in traditional outfit. so handsome even your baby cannot take her eyes off u

[solomon76]

HI thinking of getting a flash for the minolta A1
which one do you recommend?

Originally Posted by sulhan On Your Monitors.... Here are some kinda fresh shots within this couple of weeks. All shot at FLASH white balance. Color Set to +3. All resized to width of 350 pixel. No other touch up done. Full 90 degrees ceiling bounce with no card. Head on flash at Pre-flash TTL Wireless flash on left side of camera 60 degrees flash bounce with card Full 90 degrees ceiling bounce with no card. 95% of the photos sofar i've posted with the A1 in the past were only resized _ like the sunset series. Regards, Sulhan

[sulhan]

Hiee...

I would recommend to get the flash that you can afford. And maybe upgrade later when the need comes.

I started off with the 3600HS(D) and find it perfect for the Minolta system(obviously!!!).

Well.....due to the Power level (GN) there may be times where Ceiling Bounce gives slightly underexposed shots. Wireless is seamless and works great.

Only setback was the head which could not be rotated for portrait shots...ended up using wireless at 2:1 ratio with one pointing above.

Got some assignments which requires a higher power flash and i got the 5600HS(D) after sellin goff the 3600HS9D). Its one tool that you would really depend on for great pics i can say - especially indoors. Its really a portable sun in your camera bag.

Go ahead with the 3600HS(D) 1st or 2nd Hand ....where you can afford. You will like it...and wouldn't regret..

With external flashes, you will at least have longer battery life on your camera...

regards,
me

[ndroo-]

Originally Posted by sulhan Hiee... I would recommend to get the flash that you can afford. And maybe upgrade later when the need comes. I started off with the 3600HS(D) and find it perfect for the Minolta system(obviously!!!). Well.....due to the Power level (GN) there may be times where Ceiling Bounce gives slightly underexposed shots. Wireless is seamless and works great. Only setback was the head which could not be rotated for portrait shots...ended up using wireless at 2:1 ratio with one pointing above. Got some assignments which requires a higher power flash and i got the 5600HS(D) after sellin goff the 3600HS9D). Its one tool that you would really depend on for great pics i can say - especially indoors. Its really a portable sun in your camera bag. Go ahead with the 3600HS(D) 1st or 2nd Hand ....where you can afford. You will like it...and wouldn't regret.. With external flashes, you will at least have longer battery life on your camera... regards, me

Sulhan,

When you said ...

"With external flashes, you will at least have longer battery life on your camera..."

Does this mean usually when u use ext flash, u turn off the internal flash?

Cheers

[sulhan]

Hi Ndroo...

When i mention external flash....i mean the flash guns like the 3600HS....etc.
It means that the on-board-camera flash is closed (not poped up) SO the flash is only triggerd via a signal stimuli from the camera but the power is coming from batteries on the flash itself.

Oppose from using the on board flash, if you use it often, then your effective juice life would be shorter...


rgds,
me

[frisky]

Another way to put it is that the internal flash don't charge until it pops up.
So you won't be wasting power to charge the internal flash.

[solomon76]

Btw, if i use a diffuser cap for the flash 3600 (D), would it affect the effective range ?

Btw where can i get that kind of cap ?
thanx
solomon76

[hlminolta]

Hello .. any of you use Adobe RGB in the setting?
Better than sRGB ?

[forbytes]

Originally Posted by hlminolta Hello .. any of you use Adobe RGB in the setting? Better than sRGB ?

Have you tried to send in a digital file (either in adobe RGB and SRGB) to a photo finisher to develop into print? I tried both and my conclusion is as follow.

Adobe RGB gives saturated colours compared with SRGB due to the larger colour space definition. However, these settings are ignored when using the Frontier machine and you get dull colours. Setting the colour space to SRGB can produce prints with colours closer to the screen. Unless you specificially tell them to use Photoshop to print and make adjustments there else the use of Adobe colourspace is not benifical at all.