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| Newbies Corner The best place for those new to photography and ClubSNAP. |
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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 68
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hi to all.. i was experimenting with night photography with a tripod yesterday.. but i realised that there was a huge amount of noise in my photos, particularly the sky..
![]() ![]() i'm using pentax k100D super, 18-55mm kit lens and my set up was f11, 30s shutter speed and iso 200.. the lowest iso i can go is only iso 200.. can any one enlighten me please? |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Singapore, City Boy
Posts: 129
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Try cranking down your fstop from f11 to lower. Maybe in the range of F4 or F5, the picture will be better. BTW, you don't need until 30s shutter speed. Probably few secs would be good enough.
When in good light or daylight, using fstop value in the range of f11-f16 will give you good focus.But at night, you need all the light you can get.So go lower on the f-stop number and open up the shutter. This will give a warmer exposure and lesser noise. The picture above is over-exposed and so loss of quality is evident, thus more noise evident in sky. |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,522
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Actually, with lower f-stop, the starburst from point light sources won't be as defined. Depends on what TS is after. I'm also curious about what part of the photo you find over-exposed.
My suggestion is to shoot when it is not fully dark. That way you not only have more interesting scene, your shutter won't need to be open for such a long time. |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Balestier area
Posts: 1,038
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I strongly suggest that you made all yr night fotos in RAW file format, with which you have more control in post-processing. JPEG image quality is not as good becuz the system in yr camera has processed and compressed the image file as "final" output and JPEG files always have artefacts created due to long exposure timing. Alternatively you can use noise reduction plug-in software like Noise Ninja. Hope this helps.
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: AMK
Posts: 880
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This is caused by the sky not clear and uniform dark. The sky was illuminated by the surrounding and yet receive insufficient exposure resulted in uneven patches. You will notice dark noise in the water as well. Try to use a black card method, they are mentioned in clubsnap too.
Shoot without lens filter too and use hood if there is light beside you. |
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#6 | |||
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 68
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: in your mind
Posts: 19,350
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the output here is not noise,
it is JPG COMPRESSION ARTEFACTS, google to find out what it is.. you are saving your pictures with too low a quality. the k100d super or non-super is very clean at iso200, i used it before and have no complaints anyhow, the picture is slightly underexposed, exclude the bottom right foreground, and then expose with bulb mode for 1 minute, with cable release, you should get a nicer picture. |
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#8 |
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Contributor
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,159
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Just curious, is your "noise reduction" function in the custom menu on or off?
I went through some of my night shots done with the K100D, and there's indeed some noise, but not enough to bother me even when viewing on full screen, and probably nothing as bad as what you have. Hard to say for sure since your pic is small and possibly further compressed by CS gallery. Anyway, I think your test scene is particularly challenging. Loads of dark areas, with several bright lamps and lit areas, and a sky with a strong diffused glow Do you face the same problem with noise in a scene with more lit up areas (but still requiring slow shutter speeds)? |
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#9 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 68
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i haven't really tried with a more lit up area. i will try it again and see if there's a difference
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#10 | |
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Contributor
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,159
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![]() And a 100% crop looks like this: ![]() This shot was taken with ISO 200, f/10, 13s exposure. I don't have any with 30s exposure for a more direct comparison. |
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#11 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Clementi
Posts: 10,476
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1) Stopping down the aperture does not give you good focus Stopping down gives you added depth of field, not to be confused with sharpness or focus. 2) If you're on a tripod at night, a longer exposure generally has no detrimental impact on a photo In fact, a longer exposure would let in more light, and you can use that to whatever effect you wish. Night photography is done on a tripod for a reason - so that exposure time does not become a hindrance to you. There is no need to open up the aperture to get more light, especially if you want the depth of field. 3) Opening up the aperture or increasing exposure time does not give you a warmer exposure Self-explanatory. It gives you a higher exposure value. 4) When a picture is overexposed, it does not result in loss of quality per se This loss in quality seen here is due to JPEG compression. Overexposed images result in loss of detail if the details are blown out of the exposure latitude/range of the camera sensor. 5) When a picture is overexposed, noise does not become more evident. On the contrary. It is when an image is underexposed that noise becomes more evident. |
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#12 | |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Singapore
Posts: 730
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Anyway, to TS, have to check the Tips, Tricks and Guidelines for Night Photography? |
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#13 | |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Singapore, City Boy
Posts: 129
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I did mean more depth of field for point 1. as for point two. Help me out here. When i use lower F value, maybe f4 or F5, i can still get a starburst effect as long as my exposure is above 2secs that's my point. But what you mean is if you use F11 or higher, you get more defined yes? And i agree fully with point 4 and 5. Thanks for pointing them out. BTW, you have good way of phrasing yourself when it comes to technical explanation.
__________________
Sony Alpha 700, (Sigma 10-20mm UWA),(CZ16-80), (Sal70-300mm G F4.5-5.6), (SAL 50F1.4), Tam 90mm(M) |
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#14 | |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Singapore, City Boy
Posts: 129
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__________________
Sony Alpha 700, (Sigma 10-20mm UWA),(CZ16-80), (Sal70-300mm G F4.5-5.6), (SAL 50F1.4), Tam 90mm(M) |
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#15 | |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,522
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I tried to search google for an example, but came up empty (did not try very hard though). The next time you do a tripod mounted night shoot, focus, switch to MF, then take 5 shots with aperture values varying 1 stop between the different shots with equivalent metering. The difference is fairly obvious. |
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#16 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Singapore, City Boy
Posts: 129
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Good suggestion. One good experiment to try next night shoot. Thanks guys. I learnt alot from this thread alone. Hope pingz did too. Thanks
__________________
Sony Alpha 700, (Sigma 10-20mm UWA),(CZ16-80), (Sal70-300mm G F4.5-5.6), (SAL 50F1.4), Tam 90mm(M) |
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#17 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 68
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thanks to all who have advised.. i have learnt a lot too.. i will try out again
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#18 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 59
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you can trying using rule of 8..
F8 and 8 seconds exposure for night photos.. it generally works very well for me... Regards, Sachin |
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