Image Stablization on E-620

[coffee3in1]

Hi all, I'm new to Olympus and have just bought the E-620 w 14-42 kit lens.

I would like to learn how to use the IS for handheld shots (no panning, Mode 1). Do I have to half press and hold for approx 1-2 sec for the IS circuit to sense the movement before I press the shutter?

At ISO800, the camera metered f/4 @ 1/6sec with IS-1. The result is not good @ 19mm.
AutoISO chose ISO3200, f/4 @ 1/25sec, @ 19mm. I took 2 shots, with or without IS1. Both shots are sharp (but noisy).

So basically with AutoISO, the camera push 2 stops higher ISO (from 800) to use 2 stops higher shutter speed (from 1/6sec). I thot IS gives an 3 stops advantage?

Can some experts help me out? Maybe I'm not doing it right. TIA.

[daniel0ng]

If I'm not wrong, the extent that IS increases the shutter speed depends on what the metering system tells it.

A fairer test would be to use spot metering and see whether with/without IS, the shutter speed would increase by the 3 stops you expected.

[Kirika]

Well, auto ISO is set by you, isn't it? One thing you can do is to manage the auto ISO to make sure it doesn't exceed your comfort level. But f4 @ 1/6 secs sounds quite low, considering that you're at iso 800. Are you shooting in really low light?

I'd recommend that you worry less about IS, and more about handholding technique (does your viewfinder reticle wobble when you're peering through the viewfinder?) and knowing when it's risky to peg a shot. At 1/6 secs, even if you're rock steady, your subject may be moving and that will result in blur. If you jerked the camera when releasing the shutter, that may result in blur, too.

How about sharing the kind of shot you tried to take, and under what kind of lighting? That might be helpful info if you need further advice.

[theITguy]

Originally Posted by coffee3in1 I would like to learn how to use the IS for handheld shots (no panning, Mode 1). Do I have to half press and hold for approx 1-2 sec for the IS circuit to sense the movement before I press the shutter?

You do not need to half press, it will be activated once you do a full press of the shutter release.

Originally Posted by coffee3in1 At ISO800, the camera metered f/4 @ 1/6sec with IS-1. The result is not good @ 19mm. AutoISO chose ISO3200, f/4 @ 1/25sec, @ 19mm. I took 2 shots, with or without IS1. Both shots are sharp (but noisy).

"The result is not good" means that the image is blur when expanded full to your computer screen? You will need to qualify your statement.

Originally Posted by coffee3in1 So basically with AutoISO, the camera push 2 stops higher ISO (from 800) to use 2 stops higher shutter speed (from 1/6sec). I thot IS gives an 3 stops advantage?

IS means Image Stabiliser. It simply means that it attempts to cancel out handshakes relative to focu length. For example normally it will require 1/50s at 25mm (fourthird system) to "freeze" a static object. But to to low lighting, I can only use 1/6s to get the good exposure. By enabling IS mode 1, I will be able to reduce possible handshakes/virbrations.

If the object of interest is moving (for example a hip-hop dancer), IS will not help at all.

[headfonz]

how much you benefit from IS depends on your handholding technique too and standing position. there is a limit to what IS can do, but with some basic shooting techniques, you can get more out of your camera's IS.

assuming that you are shooting a static subject at slow shutter speeds, some of the things you should consider are:

1) camera handholding technique. where are you resting the weight of your camera? are you shooing in landscape or portrait orientation and how tightly are you holding the camera to your body.

try to pull in the camera close to you, elbows tucked in close to the body. that would center in your entire body's centre of gravity (CG) more than with your elbows sticking out. it doesn't help to have a large sling bag that is still swing on your shoulders too. put down anything you don't need to hang off you that can shift your CG for a short moment.

how much pressure are you putting on gripping the camera is important. if you are exerting too much pressure, your muscles tighten and your wrist and fingers will need to stretch more to pull the shutter button. that would cause your camera to 'snatch' downwards. have a firm but relaxed grip on your camera. if your finger tips feel a little numb after 5min of shooting, you are gripping too tight.

if the shot and environment allows, go low so you keep your CG low to the ground (kneel). this would reduce the minute movements your body naturally make. lean against a wall, lamp post, road sign, tree, railing, car or any static / anchored object in your surroundings for support.

2) breathing. focus on your breathing as you are framing your shot. try to anticipate your shot and time your breathing to match the shot. the expansion of your chest will cause your camera to rise or drop when breathing in or out.

the trick is to shoot just after breathing in and hold in your breathe for a heartbeat for the shot. this needs a little practice and focus, but once you get it, its second nature.

don't gulp in a large breathe or hold your breathe for more than 3 heartbeats. unless you have a sprinter's resting heartrate, your body will starting to twitch slightly when you are holding your breathe.

if you were running or doing anything strenuous that is causing you to pant or catch your breathe, it would not be the best time to shoot at a low shutter speed.

3) standing position if you are standing. spread your feet either to your shoulder width, centre your camera in the middle of your body or have your feet pointing away at a right angle at your shoulder width to have a stable stance. a good stance will allow your body's CG to centre from your solar plexus over the ground and you will be more stable.

hope this helps

[coffee3in1]

Thanks guys for the tips; these are great fundamentals.

I was shooting a static scene. My study room (standard bedroom) is lit by 3 x 12w energy-saving FL bulk = approx 180w? The subject is randomly chosen - my dry-cab. Both wife and daughter do not want to be test subject - I wonder why? Yes, at 1/6sec a moving subject would not be sharp. On hindsight, perhaps I should not have tested IS @ 1/6sec since I bought the camera to shoot human subjects.

I left the camera on its default matrix meter. In all fairness, i did a comparison shot from a D-Lux 4 and the picture is darker (auto mode - ISO400, 1/20sec, f/2.2). I am guessing E-620 matrix meter 'read' the black cab and tries to expose for it. Maybe I should compensate -2/3 stops??

Ok, to clarify "The result is not good" means ghosting around the logo "AKARUI DIGI". For the hack of it, i sticked E620 onto a tripod and it come up sharp. Btw, shot from the Leica also turn up sharp.

Overall, the camera is a fine piece of work. Still quite curious about IS tho... My next exploration topic - Flash (what type of setting/combo works for human subjects). Looking forward to 2nd May outing. Yeah.

[egnaro]

have u try this to see how Olympus IS work?

on your live view, 3-5x mag, press and hold IS button, u shd see how the IS work. however that is only preview of how IS work. there will be still some shaking if handhold is not good enuff but well it does help.

[headfonz]

which metering mode where you using?

[boonsong]

Originally Posted by egnaro have u try this to see how Olympus IS work? on your live view, 3-5x mag, press and hold IS button, u shd see how the IS work. however that is only preview of how IS work. there will be still some shaking if handhold is not good enuff but well it does help.

according to some review sites, the 620's IS only comes in after the shutter is fully pressed, hence TS might not be able to see this effect .....

[headfonz]

Originally Posted by coffee3in1 I left the camera on its default matrix meter.

just noticed this. if your metering mode was set to ESP + AF, the camera's meter will take a matrix metering with a exposure bias to your AF point. that may explain the difference in the final exposure differences between your E620 and your compact. so you should take note of how you want your shot to be exposed and use the right metering mode.

[egnaro]

Originally Posted by boonsong according to some review sites, the 620's IS only comes in after the shutter is fully pressed, hence TS might not be able to see this effect .....

I am not sure abt E620 .:P but I know E510, E3 got IS preview. try the method I mention earlier u will know.

I understand that IS will only activate after shutter fully press. basically if fast shutter u wun realise it.. try on and off IS on slow shutter u will know what I mean.

[spidey89]

Originally Posted by boonsong according to some review sites, the 620's IS only comes in after the shutter is fully pressed, hence TS might not be able to see this effect .....

I am quite certain that for body based IS,it only comes in play after the shutter is depressed,hence one cannot see the IS in effect during composing unlike lens based ones like Canon,Nikon and Panaleica

[theITguy]

Originally Posted by coffee3in1 I was shooting a static scene. My study room (standard bedroom) is lit by 3 x 12w energy-saving FL bulk = approx 180w? The subject is randomly chosen - my dry-cab. Both wife and daughter do not want to be test subject - I wonder why? Yes, at 1/6sec a moving subject would not be sharp. On hindsight, perhaps I should not have tested IS @ 1/6sec since I bought the camera to shoot human subjects.

IS is still helpful to reduce handshake/vibration if you see from my earlier post. Just that the shutter speed becomes the limiting factor in your above situation.

Originally Posted by coffee3in1 I left the camera on its default matrix meter. In all fairness, i did a comparison shot from a D-Lux 4 and the picture is darker (auto mode - ISO400, 1/20sec, f/2.2). I am guessing E-620 matrix meter 'read' the black cab and tries to expose for it. Maybe I should compensate -2/3 stops??

You are now talking about exposure. I assume that both cameras' sensors are of the same sensibility. The only difference will be the way the camera works to capture an image, in the D-Lux 4 case it underexposures to retain possible highligh from clipping. This has nothing to do with IS.

Originally Posted by coffee3in1 Ok, to clarify "The result is not good" means ghosting around the logo "AKARUI DIGI". For the hack of it, i sticked E620 onto a tripod and it come up sharp. Btw, shot from the Leica also turn up sharp.

Read headfonz' comments on techniques. It is the same theory and in practical, with holding a M16 rifle (if you have been through army or held a weapon before).

Originally Posted by coffee3in1 Overall, the camera is a fine piece of work. Still quite curious about IS tho... My next exploration topic - Flash (what type of setting/combo works for human subjects). Looking forward to 2nd May outing. Yeah.

Learn your fundamentals at the same time, of which I also need to brush up too.


Happy phototaking.

[adrewine]

Originally Posted by coffee3in1 I was shooting a static scene. My study room (standard bedroom) is lit by 3 x 12w energy-saving FL bulk = approx 180w? The subject is randomly chosen - my dry-cab. ................... at 1/6sec a moving subject would not be sharp. On hindsight, perhaps I should not have tested IS @ 1/6sec since I bought the camera to shoot human subjects.

Bro.......is this the kind of shot you are trying to capture?

~ My Work Place ~
Maritim Hotel, Frankfurt, Germany



Taken with E510 & 14-42mm kit lens
@ 14mm, F3.5, ISO 400, 1/160s, IS on ~ Matrix Metering.

[isaryan]

its funny when u post that picture because i have more or less taken the picture of lamp shade night time at bedside with magazine n paper.

wanna play with the new toy before i zzzzzzzzzz...

nice pix btw. love the color.