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| Newbies Corner The best place for those new to photography and ClubSNAP. |
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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 67
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Can someone teach me how to photograph people with fireworks in the background using sony A200 ?
I tried a few times... but the exposure not quite right , Should I use a flash to light up their face ? but then can't get the fireworks cos' it will be overexposed. Pls help ! I'm very confused now.... 1 last question : Can't I photograph without a tripod ( I know tripod is a must) but I'm travelling.... so very clumsy to bring along Last edited by LavenderTea; 12th April 2009 at 08:40 PM. |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 8,308
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1. Of course you can photograph without a tripod. But for nighttime long exposures, a tripod, or somehting you can use like a tripod, is recommended.
2. Try rear synch flash. It'll mean a 2-4 second exposure with one flash at the end. you will need to learn how to go beyond "Auto" mode.
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 67
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what's rear synch flash... then what exposure do I set ?
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 8,308
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rear synch flash - in your manual, and on google.
exposure in terms of shutter speed - depends on how many fireworks there are. There is no "magic formula".
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Farrer Park
Posts: 987
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Actually, it's a problem of trial and error.
Here are my steps to do so, but its purely personal: 1) mount camera on tripod 2) set ISO 100 and put Tv to 1 second 3) gauge roughly the aperture to use and leave it on manual 4) once exposed for the usual fireworks, fire with flash 5) adjust flash power until both are equally exposed |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Clementi
Posts: 6,188
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tSkye, you're referring to manual flash right?
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Farrer Park
Posts: 987
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Oh, yea. Manual flash. I use a canon flashgun with offshoe cord set on rear curtain sync.
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#8 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,183
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actually TS should use front curtain sync for this shot. at least the front subject is properly exposed with flash & b/g is given time to fully expose
you can't possibly expect one to stand totally still for 2-4 sec...
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My flickr! Album - Sony A850 (CZ 24-70) / Minolta 70-210 F4 http://www.flickr.com/photos/montoyasg/ |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Singapore, Bedok
Posts: 770
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Tripod may not be a muz, but a solid support surface would be a must.
One suggestion, but works only for very dark environment in the vicinity of the subject. Front curtain Flash + long exposure + dark environment. The flash will light up the subject. After that, the long exposure (say, 4 sec?) will exposure the background (fireworks ). The "model" may not keep still but it doesn't matter.. because there is nothing to illuminate the model and technically the model can "move away" or they can just stand there. |
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 83
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: in your mind
Posts: 19,338
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alternatively, use a tripod, do one nice one with people properly exposed, with whatever method, probably flash will be best
then do a long exposure for the fireworks, but no one can help you with that, you need to get someone with enough experience hsooting to tell you how to capture these nicely you have two photos, make sure the exposure between the sky and the people is not too obviously different, and then layer them in photoshop, erase and tada, nice people, nice fireworks, job done. |
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 67
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THanks everyone, but my alpha A200 flash has 2 modes.. rear syn and slow sync , what's the difference, which should I use ??
Layering using photoshop ??... but it's a bit cheating right ? anyway my photoshop are lousy.. cos' self-learnt.. always wanted to do a course... but can't find one.. |
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#13 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: in your mind
Posts: 19,338
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what is cheating? the moment you capture fireworks, you are cheating, what humans see at any one point in time looks nothing like the beautiful flowers you see on photographs. ![]() cheating is totally removing something, for example, the crane in the backgorund is there, but it is so ugly, so you just happily clone it out.. the people are there, the fireworks are there, what you are doing is trying to churn out your vision, why not? ![]() |
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#14 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 67
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One more question... manual flash... do you all mean I need to buy a separate flash, I can't use the built in flash on my sony A200 ???
Does a external flash very expensive ?? |
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#15 | |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 67
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#16 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Jurong West
Posts: 496
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Probably not the best example.. but perhaps useful for your reference
Manual Mode, 1/20s, f4, ISO 800, onboard flash fired Pardon the background, but it was drizzling, so had to take under shelter. here's the result: ![]() Last edited by reaper3075; 14th April 2009 at 03:56 PM. |
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#17 | |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 67
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Sorry, but what is onbroad flash fired ??? |
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 8,308
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onboard flash means he used the flash built into his camera.
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#19 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: In The Wilderness
Posts: 191
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Slow sync flash is classified into: "front curtain" or "rear sync/back curtain" flash.
"Front curtain" or so called "dragging the shutter" metered the ambient for exposure at the same time firing the flash. Sony called the "front curtain flash" as "slow sync flash" ![]() In your case, you'll use this "front curtain" mode (with the on-board/built-in flash). Cam will metered the ambient and fireworks but will also flash (depends on cam whether 1/125, 1/250 sync,.. etc). You'll need a tripod cos shutter could be long (several sec or more). Subject doesn't matter whether slight movement or not after flash (while shutter still remained open). However, you may need to compensate the flash (-EV for the subject) or take manual mode (may use aperture to control intensity of flash). "Rear sync/back curtain flash" is use to capture flowing movement and having the subject at end of motion. Not for your use in this case. Hope this helps. Experiment & enjoy ![]() Last edited by kkleong; 14th April 2009 at 07:28 PM. |
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#20 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Singapore, Bedok
Posts: 770
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In simple terms....
A flash typically last a few msec (1ms = 1/1000s). Depending on the shutter speed, an exposure normally last much longer than that. ( shutter = 1/10 means the shutter will open for 100ms ). In the "long exposure" situations mentioned above in many posts, the shutter is open for a few seconds. Hence, thats where the front/back comes into the picture. The camera allows the user to choose to fire the flash at the start of the exposure, when the shutter opens (front curtain), OR at the end of the exposure, just before the shutter closes (rear curtain). Generally, most camera's factory default setting should be front. In most cases for stationary subjects, there is no apparent differences. But for moving subjects, it makes a lot of differences. |
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