iso 1600 film and developing technique

cchsieh · 29th March 2009

i have tried both Tmax and HC-110 developer on Tri-x. The t-max will blow out the high light, HC-110 in dilution c yield better results. But i still dont like the result.

Any other suggestions on films that can be shoot iso1600 and the technique of developing it?

brian · 29th March 2009

Tri-X pushed to 1600 has very high contrast, so unless your scene is relatively flat, it is easy to get blown highlights or black detail-less shadows. I used to like the gritty look of Tri-X at 1600 but now I shoot Neopan 1600, and Tri-X only at 400 or 320. What I would do if Tri-X is pushed is to develop it using stand development, google it up, basically leaving the tank sitting there for around an hour or more depending on developer and letting it exhaust itself locally. However, I don't think it's advisable to use TMax nor HC110 for stand development. The few times I've used HC110 for stand development, bromide drag is quite prominent. That's when you get what looks like uneven development. Rodinal is better for that purpose, but I believe it is impossible to find now in SG.

The thing I like about stand development is that it seems to preserve the highlights and shadows better than normal agitation. Theory being the developer gets exhausted in certain areas while in others it still goes on. At least I like the result of it. If you have a roll of Tri-X at 1600, maybe you can test it out with HC110. Check the internet for the dilution to use and timing, but I guess 1hr is quite normal.

Now back to Neopan 1600. If you can get your hands on it, I find it to be a lot nicer with better tones and grain size than pushed Tri-X. And works well with HC110B as well.

Celebring · 29th March 2009

I've used a a couple of rolls of Fuji Neopan 1600. Developed using HC-110 1+99 at 26 degrees C for about 13 minutes. Agitation was for the first 60s and subsequently for 10s every third minute.

Results were OK for me. Of course scanning does affect the final result.

clubgrit · 29th March 2009

I second the Neopan Super Presto 1600 ... I never push ... Grain is excellent, just like a normal iso 400 film ... here is a sample :

I buy these film from http://www.japanexposures.com/shop/ ...

And here are some beautiful images from a Japanese photographer who likes to use Fuji 1600 :

Junku

Or Ilford Delta 3200 is also good, softer image. Here is one I shot at 3200, notice the more prominent grain. I now prefer shooting Delta 3200 at 1600 (pull), seems easier to develop, unless really need to go 3200.

.

29th March 2009	#1
cchsieh New Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 46	iso 1600 film and developing technique i have tried both Tmax and HC-110 developer on Tri-x. The t-max will blow out the high light, HC-110 in dilution c yield better results. But i still dont like the result. Any other suggestions on films that can be shoot iso1600 and the technique of developing it?

29th March 2009	#2
brian Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Shanghai, China Posts: 388	Re: iso 1600 film and developing technique Tri-X pushed to 1600 has very high contrast, so unless your scene is relatively flat, it is easy to get blown highlights or black detail-less shadows. I used to like the gritty look of Tri-X at 1600 but now I shoot Neopan 1600, and Tri-X only at 400 or 320. What I would do if Tri-X is pushed is to develop it using stand development, google it up, basically leaving the tank sitting there for around an hour or more depending on developer and letting it exhaust itself locally. However, I don't think it's advisable to use TMax nor HC110 for stand development. The few times I've used HC110 for stand development, bromide drag is quite prominent. That's when you get what looks like uneven development. Rodinal is better for that purpose, but I believe it is impossible to find now in SG. The thing I like about stand development is that it seems to preserve the highlights and shadows better than normal agitation. Theory being the developer gets exhausted in certain areas while in others it still goes on. At least I like the result of it. If you have a roll of Tri-X at 1600, maybe you can test it out with HC110. Check the internet for the dilution to use and timing, but I guess 1hr is quite normal. Now back to Neopan 1600. If you can get your hands on it, I find it to be a lot nicer with better tones and grain size than pushed Tri-X. And works well with HC110B as well. __________________ Leicanaut & Nikonaut @ http://nangka.org/events http://flickr.com/dufffader

29th March 2009	#3
Celebring Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 270	Re: iso 1600 film and developing technique I've used a a couple of rolls of Fuji Neopan 1600. Developed using HC-110 1+99 at 26 degrees C for about 13 minutes. Agitation was for the first 60s and subsequently for 10s every third minute. Results were OK for me. Of course scanning does affect the final result. __________________ flickr

29th March 2009	#4
clubgrit Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Pacland Posts: 1,837	Re: iso 1600 film and developing technique I second the Neopan Super Presto 1600 ... I never push ... Grain is excellent, just like a normal iso 400 film ... here is a sample : I buy these film from http://www.japanexposures.com/shop/ ... And here are some beautiful images from a Japanese photographer who likes to use Fuji 1600 : Junku Or Ilford Delta 3200 is also good, softer image. Here is one I shot at 3200, notice the more prominent grain. I now prefer shooting Delta 3200 at 1600 (pull), seems easier to develop, unless really need to go 3200. . Last edited by clubgrit; 29th March 2009 at 09:31 PM.