Ilford method of stop & rinsing B&W negative

Tachi · 29th March 2009

I have read in an older publication from Ilford about stopping & rinsing negative. So far I tried 8 rolls, without any side effect.

For stopping : 3 fills of water, 1st fill 5 inversion of tank then pour away, 2nd fill 10 inversion and finally 3rd fill 20 inversion.

For rinsing : same procedure as stopping, follow by 2 fills of rinsing by tap water, each fill 10 cycles of moving up/down centre stem of the tank. And lastly, 1 fill of tank with 10 drops of Photoflo, 1 min agitation before drying of negative.

So, that's my method of saving water.

Regards..

cchsieh · 29th March 2009

This rinsing step will replace the running water wash?

Is all the water recycled or new fresh water for each rinse? What is the tank you used?

Tachi · 29th March 2009

Yeap the rinsing replaces the running tap water and every rinse is of fresh water.

Tachi · 29th March 2009

I'm using an AP daylight development tank, easily found in Ruby or Seng Cheong.

clubgrit · 29th March 2009

I do the same thing, for rinsing :-) ... I just use an Ilford stop bath, 10 seconds only, reusable. That's what you mean by stopping right ?

Originally Posted by Tachi

I have read in an older publication from Ilford about stopping & rinsing negative. So far I tried 8 rolls, without any side effect.

For stopping : 3 fills of water, 1st fill 5 inversion of tank then pour away, 2nd fill 10 inversion and finally 3rd fill 20 inversion.

For rinsing : same procedure as stopping, follow by 2 fills of rinsing by tap water, each fill 10 cycles of moving up/down centre stem of the tank. And lastly, 1 fill of tank with 10 drops of Photoflo, 1 min agitation before drying of negative.

So, that's my method of saving water.

Regards..

Tachi · 30th March 2009

Nope after developing, I don't use stop bath, just the same method of rinsing to stop the developing process. Only difference, for rinsing, 2 additional fix of the tank with tap water

cy_j · 11th April 2009

Will give this a try...

ellery · 12th April 2009

Bro if the aim is to save water you should use a stop bath vs 3 tanks of water to stop development. Advantages of a stop bath is that the development is stop as soon as the acidified water comes into contact with the neg. The other way of water washing lead to a variable of continued micro developement in shadow and darker midtones which may or may not agree with how you expose and develop.

Use hypo clear if you really want to save water - removes off a good part of the fixer. Water washing off of fixer requires high volume flow over surface to remove fixer. Important step for both film and prints as stains develop over time if fixer is not remove properly.

clubgrit · 12th April 2009

I have never come across Ilford recommending that way to stop, Tachi,. Many people skip the stop bath without any problems, even developer books acknowledge this. They just go straight to fixing, no rinsing of any kind. I do like to use a stop bath as it prolongs the life of the fixer, for more reuse. Of course, also more controlled development, as it stops it immediately.

I do more than what Ilford suggests for rinsing, though, more inversions, and a combination of both traditional and Ilford. Ellery's mention of the hypo ($10 at Ruby, makes 1 gallon) is relevant and good, just add one more little step.

Anyway, for reference of others, here is the article:

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/200629163442455.pdf

.

welspain · 27th April 2009

Originally Posted by clubgrit

I have never come across Ilford recommending that way to stop, Tachi,. Many people skip the stop bath without any problems, even developer books acknowledge this. They just go straight to fixing, no rinsing of any kind. I do like to use a stop bath as it prolongs the life of the fixer, for more reuse. Of course, also more controlled development, as it stops it immediately.

I do more than what Ilford suggests for rinsing, though, more inversions, and a combination of both traditional and Ilford. Ellery's mention of the hypo ($10 at Ruby, makes 1 gallon) is relevant and good, just add one more little step.

Anyway, for reference of others, here is the article:

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/200629163442455.pdf

.

i also follow the ilford's step by step guide in developing. regarding HCA, i never bother to use them since its not in ilford's though Ruby have it. but i read in others post that it can shorten the washing time of the film. will give it a try next time.

clubgrit · 27th April 2009

It is nice to include in the process, takes just an extra 1 - 2 minutes.

But it sure is a pain to pour a small amount from a big gallon jug, so better have some small one for working. Also, it doesn't last long, recommended shelf life approx. 3 months. So that's $10 for 3 months, but should still save water cost if one is developing several times within this period.

I also use it for clearing my Polaroid 665 negatives, as the hca is basically sodium sulfide.

Here is an example of wrong instructions, where instructor thinks Photoflo is a hca.

http://www.ehow.com/video_4411531_us...ing-agent.html

.

29th March 2009	#1
Tachi Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: town area Posts: 395	Ilford method of stop & rinsing B&W negative I have read in an older publication from Ilford about stopping & rinsing negative. So far I tried 8 rolls, without any side effect. For stopping : 3 fills of water, 1st fill 5 inversion of tank then pour away, 2nd fill 10 inversion and finally 3rd fill 20 inversion. For rinsing : same procedure as stopping, follow by 2 fills of rinsing by tap water, each fill 10 cycles of moving up/down centre stem of the tank. And lastly, 1 fill of tank with 10 drops of Photoflo, 1 min agitation before drying of negative. So, that's my method of saving water. Regards..

29th March 2009	#2
cchsieh New Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 46	Re: Ilford method of stop & rinsing B&W negative This rinsing step will replace the running water wash? Is all the water recycled or new fresh water for each rinse? What is the tank you used?

29th March 2009	#3
Tachi Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: town area Posts: 395	Re: Ilford method of stop & rinsing B&W negative Yeap the rinsing replaces the running tap water and every rinse is of fresh water.

29th March 2009	#4
Tachi Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: town area Posts: 395	Re: Ilford method of stop & rinsing B&W negative I'm using an AP daylight development tank, easily found in Ruby or Seng Cheong.

30th March 2009	#6
Tachi Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: town area Posts: 395	Re: Ilford method of stop & rinsing B&W negative Nope after developing, I don't use stop bath, just the same method of rinsing to stop the developing process. Only difference, for rinsing, 2 additional fix of the tank with tap water

11th April 2009	#7
cy_j Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Newton Posts: 727	Re: Ilford method of stop & rinsing B&W negative Will give this a try...

12th April 2009	#8
ellery Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Posts: 785	Re: Ilford method of stop & rinsing B&W negative Bro if the aim is to save water you should use a stop bath vs 3 tanks of water to stop development. Advantages of a stop bath is that the development is stop as soon as the acidified water comes into contact with the neg. The other way of water washing lead to a variable of continued micro developement in shadow and darker midtones which may or may not agree with how you expose and develop. Use hypo clear if you really want to save water - removes off a good part of the fixer. Water washing off of fixer requires high volume flow over surface to remove fixer. Important step for both film and prints as stains develop over time if fixer is not remove properly.

12th April 2009	#9
clubgrit Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Pacland Posts: 1,845	Re: Ilford method of stop & rinsing B&W negative I have never come across Ilford recommending that way to stop, Tachi,. Many people skip the stop bath without any problems, even developer books acknowledge this. They just go straight to fixing, no rinsing of any kind. I do like to use a stop bath as it prolongs the life of the fixer, for more reuse. Of course, also more controlled development, as it stops it immediately. I do more than what Ilford suggests for rinsing, though, more inversions, and a combination of both traditional and Ilford. Ellery's mention of the hypo ($10 at Ruby, makes 1 gallon) is relevant and good, just add one more little step. Anyway, for reference of others, here is the article: http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/200629163442455.pdf . Last edited by clubgrit; 15th April 2009 at 07:31 PM.

27th April 2009	#11
clubgrit Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Pacland Posts: 1,845	Re: Ilford method of stop & rinsing B&W negative It is nice to include in the process, takes just an extra 1 - 2 minutes. But it sure is a pain to pour a small amount from a big gallon jug, so better have some small one for working. Also, it doesn't last long, recommended shelf life approx. 3 months. So that's $10 for 3 months, but should still save water cost if one is developing several times within this period. I also use it for clearing my Polaroid 665 negatives, as the hca is basically sodium sulfide. Here is an example of wrong instructions, where instructor thinks Photoflo is a hca. http://www.ehow.com/video_4411531_us...ing-agent.html .