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#1 |
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Hi there everyone,
Anyone know how to take sharp pics in the night without even using a flash. There was a dance competition some few weeks ago at Suntec and i was trying in vain to take sharp non blury pics but in vain. I cant use flash as i was far behind in the crowd and the only thing i can do is spot metering, but that does not help either. I tried increasing the ISO and thus its only creating the blur more and too bright of a pics. Anyone face this experience where u see a nice performance in the night but could not get a good pic because of the movement and the slow aparture? e.g Chingay.. etc. I am using 602 Zoom.... I know i can achieve good results with SLR Camera for some particular reason it can work, donno how. Can someone gives advise on that? Danny |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,354
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Hmm, maybe u can use shutter-priority mode?
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#3 |
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i can choose a higher shutter but then it would be dark instead. Not capturing the moment of the sharpness of the movement.
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#4 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,610
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In any case, shooting moving performers at night requires either >ISO800, or the use of flash, or a combination of both for good results. This applies to SLRs as well as there is no substitute for shutter speed. If you have an powerful external flash, you should be able to capture some decent shots coupled with ISO400. At distances of up to 10m or so. Last edited by Zerstorer; 1st October 2003 at 12:06 PM. |
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#5 |
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Guests
Posts: n/a
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Iso 800 doesnt the pic be grainy? hmm.. a good flash? any recommendation..?
Hey thanks for all your help... |
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: East
Posts: 689
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Try and take some shots at ISO800 and look at them via your PC. The pictures should tell you whether its grainy or not. Incidentally different cameras behave differently with the same ISO level.
You may want to borrow a flash extender, the one that being sold in CS, and attached it to your external flash if you are really way back from the stage. An SB25 or equivalent should be enough. |
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Singapore, Redhill
Posts: 1,063
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I believe that shooting at higher ISO on a digital cam is the same as under-exposing and using Photoshop to 'correct' the brigthness later. So I shoot at 1/30 (the lowest shutter that my hands can handle), F3.6 or F4.0 (to keep sufficient DOF) and fire-off. Then I post-process in Photoshop. Generally, the loss is quite acceptable, especially with some cleaning using smart blur or Neat Image.
But the ISO400, 800 of the 602 is considerably better than most prosumer cameras. |
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#8 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Singapore, West Area
Posts: 546
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General shuttle speed for freezing motion is at least 1/(focus length), well at least that's what I use..... ![]() |
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#9 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,610
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Here are some samples of ISO400 flash shots taken at full tele(210mm) and inclusive of 1.5X teleconvertor for some: http://forums.clubsnap.org/showthread.php?t=25495 Generally, a good setting would be to shoot at aperture priority with -1EV and then use an Autoflash set for a correct exposure. This will ensure good balance between flash and ambient light. Some samples of shots taken at ISO400-1600 without flash in indoor lighting. http://forums.clubsnap.org/showthread.php?t=31751 All images were processed with Neat Image. Basically you need 1/focal length for a sharp shot of a stationary object without flash. With flash, you can probably go 2 stops lower. For a moving object without flash, you may need 1/2xfocal length or even more depending on the speed of the subject. |
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#10 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Siglap
Posts: 2,027
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