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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Singapore
Posts: 1,098
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For everybody's amusement. Requires red (left eye) and cyan (right eye) glasses.
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Punggol
Posts: 10,775
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If I didn't read what you wrote, I will suggest you need to buy a new lens by just seeing the picture.
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#3 |
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Singapore
Posts: 41
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![]() You have lost the color in the work. I share my here. But it is not perfect, just to share the experience. Viewers need to use the RED Blue specs to see the effect. |
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#4 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Singapore
Posts: 1,098
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Actually, the circuit board just isn't very colourful. The solder stop mask and most of the SMD resistors are green; the SMD capacitors are gray-ish. The only contrasting colour spots are the SMD inductors on the left side.
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 572
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Managed to see the picture pop out od the screen using the 3D glasses from video "journey to the centre of the earth"
Did you take this picture yourself? How to take such a picture?
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|CanonEOS| |
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#6 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Singapore
Posts: 1,098
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Basically, you start with a stereoscopic pair - one picture from the perspective of the left eye, and one picture from the perspective of the right eye. If you don't have a stereo camera, you can just shift the camera sideways between two sequential exposures (obviously that works only if nothing in the picture is moving). You can reduce or exaggerate the stereo effect by changing the base length (i.e. the shift of camera position). The only problem that remains is to feed the "left"/"right" image to the left/right eye, respectively. You can have print the pictures separately and use a stereo viewer, or cross your eyes (but it takes practice and is awkward). You also can rapidly switch between the images and wear LCD shutter glasses that switch in sync. Or you can superimpose the pictures in projection with different polarisation and use polarising glasses to separate them. Finally, you can also separate images based on colour, but this implies that you considerably compromise the colour fidelity. In the simplest case, you take a monochrome stereoscopic pair and superimpose the two images using different colour channels (red-green, red-blue, red-cyan, yellow-blue, magenta-green, etc). The viewing filters again separate the images. Colour anaglyphs are more tricky. The simple method I've used for the picture is to take the red channel from the "left" picture, and the green+blue (= cyan) channels from the right picture. Somehow the brain is smart enough to reassemble the color-filtered images into a (nearly) full-colour stereo image. It works surprisingly well, but it fails if you have objects/details that do not appear in both the red and cyan channels (you would see that object only with one eye, so the brain gets confused). There's a helpful article on Wikipedia on this (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anaglyph_image), and lots more interesting sites can be easily found using the search engine of your choice. Last edited by LittleWolf; 29th December 2008 at 05:50 PM. Reason: changed back to a malformed URL since Wikipedia doesn't seem to work with correct URL syntax |
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Singapore
Posts: 1,098
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A quickie, taken today hand-held from Mt Faber. Not perfectly aligned, but it still works.
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#8 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 572
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|CanonEOS| |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Singapore
Posts: 1,098
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It's actually very easy to do. The main task is to get a good pair of pictures to start with (i.e. not tilted or misaligned in other ways); the processing requires only a few simple steps in an image processing program (I use the Gimp).
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern Singapore
Posts: 303
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Hey, I am working on some stereoscopic stuff as well. Anyone know if there's any place to buy ready made stereoscopic glasses?
I know some will say cellophane papers works, but the quality is really quite bad. |
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