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Thread: Taking group photographs - Need your advice

  1. #1
    ClubSNAP Idol Adam Goi's Avatar
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    Default Taking group photographs - Need your advice

    Dear all,

    I'll be taking group (about 50-plus) photographs tomorrow and I need your advice.

    I know I can either do this:

    Option A:
    Use EOS 30 + Fujicolor 100

    Advantages:
    1. Get to use RC-1 Wireless Remote where I don't have to run to and fro.
    2. Cheaper to develop multiple prints

    Disadvantages:
    1. I'll probably have to leave the tweaking to the Lab people
    2. I'll be running up and down with the cabled remote
    3. I still have the funny feeling that the shots may not be proper exposed or I'll get exposures where some may not have posed appropriately, i.e. closed eyes, looking away from camera and such which I can only find out once they are developed.

    Option B:
    Use EOS 10D + Raw

    Advantages:
    1. I get to preview the shots
    2. I can tweak them in photoshop

    Disadvantages:
    1. Slightly more expensive per print (not really a big deal)
    2. Eventhough my monitor is calibrated with Spyder (I calibrate it once every two weeks) I haven't put it to the test yet, i.e. sending them to the lab. It's been said the advantage of having a properly calibrated monitor can help to ensure whatever we see on our screen will be close to the ones we get from the labs if they use a similar ICC profile.

    Please advise and TIA!

  2. #2
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    just some opinions

    1) use both Option A and Option B, then you can choose which one to develop later, film or digital

    2) if possible, get somebody to help (for free ), so that you dont have to run up and down

  3. #3
    ClubSNAP Idol Adam Goi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by caseytan
    just some opinions

    2) if possible, get somebody to help (for free ), so that you dont have to run up and down
    Why didn't I think of that?

    Thanks Casey!

    Any more input from the rest?

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    Colour profiling not really important for this kind of shots, right? Any self-respecting lab (digital or film) should be able to touch up the colour tinges.

    Digital is the better option; esp since you get to check whose eyes are closed. That, i think, is the most irritating part about group shots. i even get people with eyes closed WITHOUT flash - high blinking frequency?

    For small prints, i think don't even bother to hand tweek in PS - just let the lab hand them. i don't even think you need to shoot raw.

    For large prints, digital is still the better option than film; you have a lot more control over the final output.

  5. #5

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    how big is ur final print ?
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    ClubSNAP Idol Adam Goi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by megaweb
    how big is ur final print ?
    At least 12R.

    TIA!

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    Sounds like a 120 job to me..
    shoot a whole roll for the group pix then choose from the small proof prints.
    Usually tell the group u will be counting to 3 b4 releasing the shutter,click away at the count of 2.
    Works well for me

    hope this helps.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kex
    Sounds like a 120 job to me..
    shoot a whole roll for the group pix then choose from the small proof prints.
    Usually tell the group u will be counting to 3 b4 releasing the shutter,click away at the count of 2.
    Works well for me

    hope this helps.
    Usually what I do too but I don't think he has the option of 120 format here.

  9. #9

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    take more shots.... sometimes u may overlook it if one person's eyes are closed.

  10. #10

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    Get Megaweb there and ask him do a pano shot of the group.......

  11. #11
    ClubSNAP Idol Adam Goi's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input; I'll be going for a complete digital solution.

    Keep them coming; I'm sure I'm not the only one who is benefitting from these!

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluestrike
    Get Megaweb there and ask him do a pano shot of the group.......
    hmm ... I dun think stitching shots together work well for a group shot ..
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    Senior Member loboclerk's Avatar
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    You may be interested in this for curbing closed eyes, glum faces, or even blocked faces.. wrote it sometime ago. Hope u find it useful.

    http://photos.bay.to/digital_imaging..._portraits.pdf
    Macro Photography in SG - http://sgmacro.blogspot.com | Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/sgmacro

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    Going digital with the 10D is a good choice. Use WA. Hope you are shooting outdoor (ie, lotsa daylight). If in school premises (read Hall), better go get a couple of Bowens/Elinchromes plus sync.

    Keep to ISO400 and below, and take at least 2 shots per group. I'm guessing that you are doing children + adults, so the closed eyes thingie will be something you MUST watch out for.

    As for printing to 12R... I'd recommend sticking to S8R. DSLR and such group sizes, going beyong 10R is running a high risk of seeing very large kidney beans instead of faces!

    For one, I'd like to see your shots! (Can, please.....)

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    Hope it goes well
    Check out my wildlife pics at www.instagram.com/conrad_nature

  16. #16
    Senior Member Ansel's Avatar
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    Default Closed eyes

    One way to prevent people closing their eyes or blinking is to try this:

    Tell everyone to close their eyes and then open them on the count of three. Then when everyone's eyes are open at three, you can fire away.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ansel
    One way to prevent people closing their eyes or blinking is to try this:

    Tell everyone to close their eyes and then open them on the count of three. Then when everyone's eyes are open at three, you can fire away.
    Hey, good idea!


    Only thing is that sometimes, you kena those older teachers who may be prone to twitching at the pop of the flash.... or some folks who get spasms from knowing a camera's pointed at them...

    (I am serious. Not kidding)

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