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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 105
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Hi,
I'm looking into Architectural and Interior facade Photography, and am wondering if the Pentax SMCP-DA 14mm f/2.8 ED (IF) or DA 21mm F3.2 Limited would be a better choice for this. Obviously, the DA 14mm sounds like a more logical choice with the extra width, but wondering if the DA 21mm would be just as useful for this type of photography. For me, issues would be distortions and CA. I've used kit lens lens for this before and found the outcome unacceptable. If anyone has used either one of these two lens, please share your experience. Also wondering if the Sigma 10-20mm would do a decent job for this if the photos are to be blown up to 8R size. Last edited by nouffer; 21st November 2008 at 08:35 AM. |
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#2 |
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Contributor
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,158
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I've owned the DA14mm for a while, the distortions are very low for something so wide. I don't have any architectural or interior facade photos to show now, will have to see what I have at home later... What you're taking will mostly be relatively flat surfaces right? I'm guessing this will be the best choice for what you need.
Never tried the DA21mm, so I can't make the comparison. But Photozone does seem to say that it has more distortion than the DA14mm. If you want flexibility maybe you can consider the DA12-24mm too? Probably higher distortion at the widest and longest ends, but if it's like most zoom lenses, the middle range should be pretty good. I remember reading somewhere that the Sigma 10-20mm has moustache distortion, but again that might be just at the widest end, can't remember for sure now. Edit: After seeing Kit's reply, would just like to clarify that the distortions I'm referring to in my reply is barrel distortion. I assume that TS has already taken perspective into consideration when choosing to use wide angle primes... Last edited by Gengh; 21st November 2008 at 10:04 AM. |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Bukit Timah / Melbourne CBD
Posts: 6,023
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I don't use Pentax but can offer some advise where focal length is concerned.
The 14mm will come in very handy for tight interior spaces if you can live with the perspective distortion, which is inherent in wide angle lenses anyway. The ultra wide will give you very dramatic perspective of the spaces but do bear in mind, objects further away will appear much smaller than they appear to you. Its a lens that probably need some getting used to. Distortion - You did not mention what kind of distortion you are experiencing. If its perspective distortion (where objects at the edges are being stretched), that's not much you can do about it since this is inherent in the design of wide angles. If it curvilinear distortions you are referring to, then the primes should do much better than what you are using now. |
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#4 |
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Bukit Gombak
Posts: 9,096
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For interior facade photography, better use a zoom lens 'cause most time there is no place for you to go back further
The Sigma 10-20 and Pentax 12-24 are two great super wide zoom lenses for this task. Both DA14 and DA21 are very decent lenses, but I do feel zooming w/ your legs are not possible sometimes ... |
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 105
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Thank you for the input.
I'm considering using my 16-45mm to a test run to see it is wide enough. 83 degrees compared to 90 degrees of the 14mm doesn't sound too far off. However, I wonder if the outcome will be good enough for large 8R prints. Curvilinear Distortions, as mentioned by Kit, is one major concern. I've checked out the prices of the DA14mm, Sigma 10-20mm and 12-24mm. The investment costs looks prohibitive at this hard times. Wonder if someone is willing to rent me a Sigma 10-20mm or a 12-24mm, in case I need them. Ironically, I've got a DA 10-17mm but its totally useless for this since it is a fisheye. Last edited by nouffer; 21st November 2008 at 11:18 PM. |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Bukit Timah / Melbourne CBD
Posts: 6,023
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8R is not considered large. With proper techniques, you shouldn't have any problem with most lenses.
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Bukit Timah / Melbourne CBD
Posts: 6,023
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Curvilinear distortions can be fixed in post editing, so I wouldn't be too worried over that. Further, they can be avoided if you know how to work your way around when you compose your photos e.g. avoid long length of vertical or horizontal straight lines near the edges. If you are not making a living out of taking photos of buildings, you really don't have to spend so much.
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#8 | |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 105
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Taking portraits is making me into a one-trick pony. Trying to diversify.
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 894
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As far as suitability in terms of well controlled distortion for architecture, and UWA lens, I think there's few that is (if any) better than the Sigma 12-24. One of the only UWA's where straight edges remain straight! ( at least that's what I've seen lah...
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Bukit Timah / Melbourne CBD
Posts: 6,023
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If that's the case, then you have a lot to consider. Architectural photography is a pretty specialised field and just to meet the requirements of your clients, you need to be equipped with tools that will make your life easier. You will definitely need some kind of perspective control devices, be it a tilt/shift lens or a medium/large format view/field camera to be handy at all times. That's just the beginning.
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#11 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 105
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Thank you, bro. You've given me a different perspective to consider. |
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 894
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Actually, SG$1k for such a lens isn't that exhorbitant. If you're thinking along this thread, then you can forget about tilt-shift lenses. Unless you get some really old ones, probably 3rd or 4th hand. Then again, I'm not sure if its available for Pentax.
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#13 | |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 105
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And you re right about the tilt-shift lens. I remember a friend grumbling about the prices a few months back. I bet he will still be grumbling if I asked him about it (which I will anyways... heheh). Too bad he dun use a Pentax. |
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#14 |
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Contributor
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,158
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Bukit Timah / Melbourne CBD
Posts: 6,023
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Well, like I said before. If you are not doing it for a living, you don't need to spend that much and you don't even need to grumble. If you are earning money from it, you won't grumble too because you know its a necessacity. If you are good enough, you can easily cover the costs with a single assignment.
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#16 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 105
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Hi Gengh,
Thank you for the input. Didn't know about these options. Hi Kit, I'm not disputing your logic. I'm just getting a bit frustrated that my desire to learn a new skill is not matched my my wallet. On a positive point, I received some very kind offers and advice through PM. Someone mentioned that getting into a course would be a better option as it would give me the skills that I need without taking a risk of a gear purchase. To bad he pointed out to a course that has started already. hehehe... That seems to be the most logical option for me now through the medium format idea would come in pretty useful as well. Anyway, thank you for all the tips and advice. I really appreciate it. |
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#17 | |
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Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: East
Posts: 1,950
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__________________
Pentaxian | apwp flickr |
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#18 | |
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Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: East
Posts: 1,950
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__________________
Pentaxian | apwp flickr |
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#19 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Bukit Timah / Melbourne CBD
Posts: 6,023
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I (and I believe most people) didn't started with tilt / shift lenses or medium format cameras lying on the table waiting. With a film camera; a 20mm and 50mm lenses, I began learning the skills and it was not till 3 years later was I able to afford my 1st dslr. Perhaps its time to look back at what you are using now and think what you can do with them. You might not even need to buy anything at all. |
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