Pro cameras work in favour of sports photography due to their weight and damping effect on lens and shutter movement.Originally posted by Trevor_Tan
In this case, even if you had a pro camera also useless. Cos I guess even with this setup, you also can't reach the F65 top shutter speed (I think is 1/2000).
You are kidding right? I hope you are kidding because what you say is incorrect! At f5.6 on a reasonably bright day in a country like Singapore I'd expect to see around 1/750th at f5.6, and given the lightweight body and lens hand holding for tack sharp images is a doddle.Originally posted by Trevor_Tan
As you never say which end of the lens you r using, I assume the worst case 300mm. At this end, u really need a triport with the weight of the lens and camera, holding and panning to wait of an action shot will tired your hands, and cos it to shake when you press the shutter. At 300mm even the slightest shake cos by pressing the shutter will blur the image, if your shutter speed is slow. Hence use a remote shutter release and mount your camera on triport.
The use of a monopod is all that is required here if support is deemed necessary.
Your rule of thumb is correct here.Originally posted by Trevor_Tan
As the rule of thumb (read it some where), if your lens is at 300mm, your shutter speed need to be at least 1/300 sec in order to make a handheld shot. But since you are taking an action shots, I the shutter speed should be even faster!
The reason to use 300mm is to produce subject isolation and to blur out the background to an extent that is impossible with shorter focal lengths such as 70mm at f4.5 - For sports such as tennis and football long lenses produce the compression required to make the players stand out. Otherwise use a wide angle lens up close, however this adds considerably to the danger.Originally posted by Trevor_Tan
I suggest that you try not to use the 300mm of the lens and get nearer to the field (but safety first ). Try to take shots on actions nearer to you. Take a wider picture of a group chasing/stacking a poor fellow rather the a zoomed picture of a hero himself running towards the pole.
The use of panning only applies to motorsports and cycling, some equestrian events and some areas of skiing. As Jed has pointed out it is sometimes done in Athletics and track and field etc but normally only after the keepers have been shot.Originally posted by Trevor_Tan
When taking a photograph in spot events, you need to pan your camera with the object you are taking b4, during and after you press the shutter release. This will show some action of movement in the pictures. (Ever wonder how picture of moving car where the background, road and even the wheels are blured due to their movement but the car body is yet so sharp)
Following the action in the viewfinder is however a common practice, especially if you aren't familiar with the often intricate nuances of a sport and it's competitors.
If the AF is too slow do it manually! Generations of sports photographers used manual focusing and many professionals including myself and Jed use manual focusing to capture high speed sports action. Unless sport is being played indoors or in attrocious lighting conditions outdoors (eg around sunset) then the worst case scenario is ISO 800 film such as Fuji Press and that film takes 11x14" enlargements extremely well. Fuji Superia 400 is excellent in the 400 ISO film speed range for almost grainless 8x10" prints.Originally posted by Trevor_Tan
The lens you had is really too slow in focusing and taking shots of actions like this. But fast tele are too expensive, so I do suggest you buy a faster flim to compensate. The draw back is the photo developed using a fast flim will be grainy, hence can't enlarge the print. Also pray for a very bright sunny day.
Sounds like the alleged pro was either pulling your leg or didn't know what he was talking about.Originally posted by Trevor_Tan
Acturally, I'm also learning, these tips are what I get from a very friendly sport photographer that I happen to meet in UK during my University Football match. He was carrying F90 with big a lens (can't remember what) & triport. And I was beside him with my F80 and 28-200. He told me to just take wide angle shots below 80mm cos anything above that will be blur with a 400 ISO film without triport. He even offer to help me take some pictures (with my F80 body but his setup) when I told my friend was in the field playing.
Now just for you, a couple of shots to show how it's done.
1/750th second on 400 film, 800mm f8
How to pan (cars etc) 100 ISO film
Framing, correct aperture selection and action make a shot