What type of lense is needed?

[RayQuek31]

Hi!

I need advices for lenses. I am still a newbie and I like taking portrait, nature and close up for flowers and insects like butterfly, dragonfly and etc. I would like to get a fast lense so I wonder which lense can use for most of my purpose. I thought of getting a 50mm f1.4. Any suggestions? Thanks!

[photobum]

Originally Posted by RayQuek31 Hi! I need advices for lenses. I am still a newbie and I like taking portrait, nature and close up for flowers and insects like butterfly, dragonfly and etc. I would like to get a fast lense so I wonder which lense can use for most of my purpose. I thought of getting a 50mm f1.4. Any suggestions? Thanks!

You'll need a 105mm f2.8 Micro AFS (VR or non-VR) to do all that.

[ortega]

Originally Posted by photobum You'll need a 105mm f2.8 Micro AFS (VR or non-VR) to do all that.

i 2nd the above

but hor, macro shots need to stop down for more DOF

[zac08]

Either a Tamron 90 or Nikkor 105 for the macro.

For the portraits, you may want to consider the Tamron 28-75 or the Nikkor 24-70. Depending on how much budget you have and your interest.

[diediealsomustdive]

Originally Posted by RayQuek31 Hi! I need advices for lenses. I am still a newbie and I like taking portrait, nature and close up for flowers and insects like butterfly, dragonfly and etc. I would like to get a fast lense so I wonder which lense can use for most of my purpose. I thought of getting a 50mm f1.4. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Portrait - need slightly longer than normal FOV, in DX land it is longer than 35mm (FX land 50mm). Standard practise is to recommend 50mm f/1.8 or f/1.4 (if bank account bigger, not significantly different in performance, IMHO but others may disagree), 85mm f/1.8 or f/1.4 (ditto), 105mm f/2 DC. In FX land we favour up to 105mm f/2.5 AiS, in DX land the 85mm FOV is ~127mm is already longer than 105mm FOV. Try 35mm f/2 for half body shot, 50mm for head and shoulder shot, 85mm for tighter head shot.

Nature - taken to mean landscape. Mostly you'll need wider FOV, in DX land it means 18mm and below. Not many choices, and they don't come cheap.

Closeup for flowers and insects - for flowers 60mm f/2.8 would be good, but too short for insects. 105mm f/2.8 micro would be good.

A bit hard to do all these with 1 lens. You'll probably be better served with 2 lenses.

(all in DX)
1) Normal zoom starting from about 18mm to about 50 or 70 or 135 mm - short end would be good for landscape, longer range for portrait. Would be good to get f/2.8 lenses for better DOF control.
2) 90mm, 105mm fixed macro lens for insects, flower shots.

I just got my AFS 60mm f/2.8 micro and will test it with Kenko DG300 1.4x to give me 84mm f/4 for macro shots. Wide angle landscape I use Sigma 10-20, portrait I use 50mm f/1.8, 85mm f/1.8 and 105mm f/2.5. Other longish landscape I use 70-300ED. I will want to get the 105mm f/2.8 micro AFD (due to UW housing contraint can't fit into existing port the AFS version).

[RayQuek31]

Hi all!

Thank you very much for the advices!

Some suggestion macro lense. I know it is very good for macro but can the macro lense use for portrait? And how is it that lense with f2.8 and below can be better than f3.5 lense? In what way that it is better?


regards
Ray

[zac08]

Originally Posted by RayQuek31 Hi all! Thank you very much for the advices! Some suggestion macro lense. I know it is very good for macro but can the macro lense use for portrait? And how is it that lense with f2.8 and below can be better than f3.5 lense? In what way that it is better? regards Ray

The bigger the aperture, the more light you allow to enter. This aids in focusing speed and shooting speed.

But that would also lead to a more shallow DOF. And with less DOF, you'd get the nicer bokeh effect that portrait shooters like.

[RayQuek31]

I see.

Therefore, it is consider a fast lense for bigger aperture and have nicer bokeh that would cost more. So it also does affect the outcome of the picture quality in a sense, right?

[zac08]

Originally Posted by RayQuek31 I see. Therefore, it is consider a fast lense for bigger aperture and have nicer bokeh that would cost more. So it also does affect the outcome of the picture quality in a sense, right?

Definitely....

that's why ppl would spend such money on these expensive lenses...

[asdfg]

People say the 105mm VR is too sharp for portraits. I use mine for it though.

[RayQuek31]

Hi all!

I just got my 50mm f1.4 from Oracle and I just tried it out. Now, I fully understand the speed and the advantage of having a bigger aperture lense. It is indeed very fast using the 50mm f1.4 lense and the bokeh is quite nice. The picture came out to be brighter ven though the actual environment is not bright.

I am using D60 so had to manual focus.
Under the Manual mode, it is indeed not easy to focus but that does not mean I cannot focus. It just takes a longer time and my eye can feel quite straining to focus for long time.
When I use Aperture mode, it is not too difficult and the result is very sharp although it is manual focusing. The D60 has the guide in the viewfinder for focusing so it is not difficult at all. I am very satisfied with the result.

Now, I am not so afraid of manual focus for still subject but for fast moving subject then I think I might have difficulty. I think my next target is macro lense. In fact, I am thinking of Tamron 90mm Macro but I had read articles that the built of it is not as good as Nikon because it does not have the proper sealing in the lense. I afriad that Tamron macro lense might get dust and fungus even outting in dry box. Any comments or advices on this? Those who have Nikon or Tamron macro lense can share your experience with me. Thank you!

[zac08]

I use the Tamron 90mm f2.8 macro.

It's light and easy to use. And for you, you'd need to MF with it as it does not have HSM. Picture quality is pretty decent for the price. Examples can be seen in my flickr site.

If you have more dough and want better, then consider the 105 AF-S VR.

[nemesis32]

for extreme close up, can use 50mm with the inverter ring and manual focussing... i havent tried it yet though :P

[lsisaxon]

Originally Posted by nemesis32 for extreme close up, can use 50mm with the inverter ring and manual focussing... i havent tried it yet though :P

Try it and you'll find that there isn't much you can do to focus except move the entire camera towards or away from the subject..

[melvinchen]

I think the best portrait lens, but often forgotten is the good old 135mm, f/2 DC.

There's a new version that is AF, but same optics as the good old manual version.

It has a de-focusing function to blur out your background even further...hence the DC lens suffix.

but for macro, I think 105/2.8 is good, or maybe u can try the 60/2.8, cause for DSLR, 105 might be too long for portrait, general use...

[jfoo]

Originally Posted by melvinchen 105 might be too long for portrait, general use...

be careful when you use the 105 macro for portraiture as it can be very flattening depending on your model's features.

[jfoo]

Originally Posted by melvinchen I think the best portrait lens, but often forgotten is the good old 135mm, f/2 DC.

for FX, 135 is optimum. for DX slightly too long.

for DX can consider the 85 1.8 or 1.4 for portraiture. 50mm also does a good job but not much of bokeh for full length, only at close ups.

[zac08]

Originally Posted by nemesis32 for extreme close up, can use 50mm with the inverter ring and manual focussing... i havent tried it yet though :P

Extreme closeup would be 24 reversed.. with K rings or 24 reversed on a 90...

those are extreme...

[vonlichenstein]

Originally Posted by lsisaxon Try it and you'll find that there isn't much you can do to focus except move the entire camera towards or away from the subject..

haha yes. the focus point is FIXED. and its a really a b**** to have to try and focus by moving your camera. plus if you're not using a tripod you have to stay really still to stay in focus. i recommend getting a proper macro lens, unless you're taking only flowers/inanimate objects.

[nemesis32]

Originally Posted by lsisaxon Try it and you'll find that there isn't much you can do to focus except move the entire camera towards or away from the subject..

of course la... must have patient! :P