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Thread: been practicing and reading sticky and notes etc

  1. #1

    Default been practicing and reading sticky and notes etc

    but i still got some question...

    hope nobody flame me because it's my first DSLR and after reading manual and those sticky, i understand yet when i try to shoot. it turn out different



    F5.6 to f26

    this value is for the dept of view , the lower it is the blur the background , the higher it is the clearer the background am i right?




    these are the setting i used under M mode without flash

    1/60 f5.6 ISO 200 - picture came out very dark
    1/3 and below f5.6 ISO 200 - picture start to get brighter

    so how exactly do i take picture for shutter speed value above 1/30 when the picture turn out to be very dark? i tried flash and it still didn't work. i play around with exposure , f value.
    still black. and what type of picture are these categories as?

  2. #2
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    Default Re: been practicing and reading sticky and notes etc

    What happens is, the photo result u are obtaining now is due to u not yet knowing the concept of metering.

    Think of it this way, u have a camera in ur hands. But, how does the camera knows wat combination of shutter speed, iso and apeture will result in the image exposing properly?
    By exposing properly, i mean the image is not too dark or too bright?

    As wat u have mentioned, in M mode without flash

    1/60 f5.6 ISO 200 - picture came out very dark
    1/3 and below f5.6 ISO 200 - picture start to get brighter

    U must be wondering, so how do i determine wat should be the ideal shutter speed rite?
    The key to determine it is to know wat is metering.

    U must first know that in every modern camera, they have a "light sensor" inside the cam. What this sensor does is that it will decide for u wat should be the correct shutter speed, apeture or iso to use.

    U look carefully in ur camera viewfinder or on the back of ur dslr, do u see this thing?
    + .....|..... -

    If wat u see is + lllll|..... - with the vertical bars to the + sign, it means ur photo at the current setting will be exposed too bright.

    If wat u see is + .....|lllll - with the vertical bars to the - sign, it means ur photo at the current setting will be exposed too dark.

    so what u have to do now, is to adjust ur shutter speed, apeture or iso until the bar is centered at + .....|..... -
    09 Oct 09 officially marks the date I become a canon convert.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: been practicing and reading sticky and notes etc

    Now that u know how metering helps u to expose a scene correctly, now its time to know that there are 3 kinds of metering mode:

    (a) matrix metering (b) centre weighted (c) spot metering

    (a) matrix metering - normally used in landscape photography to properly expose the whole scene, the camera will determine the light across the whole picture and try to find the best setting to properly expose everything.

    (b) centre weighted - normally used in portrait setting or other scenes where there is a main object that occupies abt 70% of the picture center. The camera will try to properly expose the 70% of that picture and "ignore" the background. So for example, if ur object is black and ur background is white, the camera will meter the black object, and will try to adjust itself to bring out the black object's details. In order to do so, it got to expose more. So wat u get is a properly exposed black object against a over exposed background. Remember the background is already white, and because of the need to expose more to bring out the black details, the white background will be overexposed.
    So i think u get wat i mean, the camera will only care abt the center 70%.

    (c) spot metering - similar to the centre weighted metering, but just that in spot metering, we meter only a small spot eg. a 6mm diameter circle in the picture. This is used for example, when there is a small frog in a bright picture. if u use matrix metering, the camera will evaluate the whole scene and think that the whole picture is too bright, and hence under expose the picture to generate a proper exposure for the whole scene. But in doing so, the small frog may be further underexposed and become dark frog.
    in addition, if u use centre weighted metering, remember it assigns abt 70% to the center of the picture, but the frog is only very very small in the picture! hence the end result will also be the camera feels that the scene is too bright and underexpose.
    Thus in spot metering, u aim the center crosshair on the frog to meter the frog. This will ensure that the frog is properly exposed and be seen! but of course the background may not be properly exposed.
    09 Oct 09 officially marks the date I become a canon convert.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: been practicing and reading sticky and notes etc

    For this last post of mine, go read up on this 3 items in ur manual and internet:

    (a) Apeture priority

    (b) Shutter priority

    (c) Manual Mode

    Try to find out wat is the main difference with these 3 modes.

    When u shoot a photo, what u normally do is:
    (1) you will select the metering mode first depending on the situation.
    (2) you select the camera shooting style, whether Apeture priority, Shutter priority or Manual Mode.
    (3) shoot!
    09 Oct 09 officially marks the date I become a canon convert.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: been practicing and reading sticky and notes etc

    f5.6 to f26
    this value is for the dept of view , the lower it is the blur the background , the higher it is the clearer the background am i right?
    Yes you are right

    these are the setting i used under M mode without flash

    1/60 f5.6 ISO 200 - picture came out very dark
    1/3 and below f5.6 ISO 200 - picture start to get brighter

    so how exactly do i take picture for shutter speed value above 1/30 when the picture turn out to be very dark? i tried flash and it still didn't work. i play around with exposure , f value.
    still black. and what type of picture are these categories as?

    In manual mode, you must control each setting (aperture, shutter speed, ISO), and the camera will not auto compensate for you. In manual mode, your camera will only give you a hint of the exposure through the pointer on your EV bar, which you can see through the viewfinder.

    From your settings, if 1/3s; f/5.6; ISO200 gives you the proper exposure, then with your other settings of 1/60s; f/5.6; ISO200, you would notice that your shutter speed is very much faster hence drastically reducing the amount of light. In this case it is around 4.5 stops too dark, and your EV pointer would be at extreme left.

    So, if you want to use 1/60s, you have to compensate for the reduction in light by changing either one or both settings at the same time to get back another 4.5 stops of light. You can do this by setting the aperture to f/1.4 (if you are using a very fast lens) or set your ISO to ISO3200 (depending on your camera's ability). Assuming you are using a kit lens, which at its fastest is only f/3.5, you will gain 1 stop from there, and then use ISO1600, to get back another 3 stops, for a total of 4 stops recovery. By this time your EV pointer would be on -1/2, which means it'd be slightly underexposed. You have gotten brighter image, but of course at the expense of DOF or graininess or a bit of both.

    It is good to experiment with your settings, but I would suggest you borrow a book and read up on exposure first so as not to exasperate yourself. Bryan Peterson's book is one I would recommend amongst others. Start with that.

    In the meantime, to start shooting immediately, use the semi-auto functions like Aperture Priority, or Shutter speed priority so that you can control the depth-of-field or capture fast/slow action respectively, while your camera controls the other setting for you.

    Also check out Sulhan's notes on Exposure compensation: page 1 and page 2.

    Last edited by blueayz; 1st July 2008 at 04:16 PM. Reason: Corrected the non-working links

  6. #6

    Default Re: been practicing and reading sticky and notes etc

    thanks bluayz and kcuf2 ,

    read up both of your post regarding M mode and went to try it out ,

    picture was picture when i use the meter to gauge and how to balance the 3 factor in.

    i read up on shutter pirority on the net when i google and follow the instruction etc and went to practise a few shots

    my target was my pet hamster , was running on my bed under a normal white room light.

    i choose the shutter run of 1/30 with a 0 exposure and it turn out black again , and because you said for S,A etc the camera automatically fix a few settings which make me once again got confused about the black picture again.

    however yet again when i change my shutter to few sec instead, the picture was getting brighter.

    now i wonder how am i suppose to capture a moving hamster?

  7. #7
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    Default Re: been practicing and reading sticky and notes etc

    Try this.

    - Set to Aperture priotity, set to smallest f-number (f/5.6, or f3.5, or smaller) and ISO 800.
    - Half-press shutter and take note what is the shutter speed suggested
    - That shutter speed is the what will give you a useable shot. Snap the picture.
    - If shutter speed is too slow and the hamster is blur (due to hamster moving or your arm shaking), raise the in-built flash.
    - With the flash, I am sure you would a get a sharper picture.

    If all else fails, set camera to Auto, raise flash (if needed) and take the picture. Preview the picture on your camera screen with the settings dosplayed together, and you have a guide as to what correct settings you need to use next time in M, A, or S modes.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: been practicing and reading sticky and notes etc

    lets take it one step at a time
    when learning the aperture, set your camera to Aperture priority to see what the different aperture affect your image

    when learning the shutter, set your camera to Shutter priority to see what the different shutter speeds affect your image

    practice in nice daylight, morning is best

  9. #9

    Default Re: been practicing and reading sticky and notes etc

    for aperture priority i quite get the grip of it already.

    as for blueayz, if the shutter speed is slow and the hamster is blur , is there a need to use the flash?
    not possible to use the surrounding light instead?
    while in shutter mode , the shutter speed is cap at 1/60 when i had flash enabled.

    this is quote from andrew APAD ,




    from what i can see the picture he took doesn't require the inbuilt flash thou

  10. #10

    Default Re: been practicing and reading sticky and notes etc

    He did flash, based on the EXIF info in the picture.

    First one, flash, ISO 100, f/3.8, 1/60s.
    Second one, flash, ISO 100, f/4.2, 1/60s.

    Cameras are quite limited by light when indoors, or at night. So you can let in more light by either using bigger apertures such as f/2.8, or increasing ISO, or using flash, or slower shutter speed. Since the hamster isn't going to stay still, you probably need around 1/60s or faster to freeze its movements. So just play with larger aperture, higher ISO, or flash.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: been practicing and reading sticky and notes etc

    surprised to see my picture here... yes I did used flash for both shots... 2 somemore... used pop up flash + handheld my sb-800 wireless, can see 2 catchlights in the eyes...I agree with ortega, take it slow, don't be frustrated or demoralised by blacken pictures or blured images, keep trying and bare in mind what you want to achieve and what needs to be done to achieve it...as for flash, maybe it might be too early to jump into it yet,as it is not as simple as one might think.

  12. #12

    Default Re: been practicing and reading sticky and notes etc

    i guess having a better lighted environment is better as when i turn on the flash , still need quite a while for the flash to flash a few times before capturing the photo so by the time the hamster would have move..

  13. #13
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    Default Re: been practicing and reading sticky and notes etc

    Quote Originally Posted by stasystylez View Post
    i guess having a better lighted environment is better as when i turn on the flash , still need quite a while for the flash to flash a few times before capturing the photo so by the time the hamster would have move..
    you can turn off the red eye reduction function of the flash so that it will not pre-flash. the pre-flash is supposed to constrict your pupil...

  14. #14

    Default Re: been practicing and reading sticky and notes etc

    i love this photo cos i have been trying alot of time and finally i get something "acceptable"
    even though there are room for improvement but it's a small step towards something big!

    Last edited by stasystylez; 1st July 2008 at 05:16 PM.

  15. #15

    Default Re: been practicing and reading sticky and notes etc

    use flash bounce off reflector to prevent red eye effect.


    Click here see some of my hamster shots taken sometimes ago
    See my Photo Gallery at the Clubsnap

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